What's Everyone Squawking About?

Saying Good Bye To Alex

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Fri, 11 Jan 2008 02:51:00 +0000

Pet Bird Bonding

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sat, 05 May 2007 13:45:00 +0000

Bonding - that all important first step so essential to a parrot/human relationship. For a successful bond to be made, it is vital to have a trust base. Without trust, there can simply can not be a bond!

Contrary to popular myth, it is NOT essential to hand feed a baby parrot in order for it to bond successfully with you. It IS important for a bird to have been hand fed, by a positive-based nurturer, who has fostered trust and provided guidance from an early age. Parrots, however, are capable of forming many bonds throughout their lifetimes. The better the socialization and nurturing guidance provided from the beginning, the easier it is for a parrot to form new bonds.

Just like humans, parrots form different bonds with different people (and birds) in their lives. Your bird may have a primary bond with you, where you provide the bulk of the feeding, cleaning, and one on one interaction. Then there may be a different bond with your spouse, who perhaps provides special treats and occasional "hangouts" together. Your children may have yet another bond in providing silliness and special games. Then there are various degrees of bonding with other birds in the household, or even the family dog. All of these bonds are special and unique relationships. It is my belief that the more chances for a parrot to have numerous positive relationships, the healthier your bird is. Should something happen where you and your bird have to part company for some reason, a bird that has been encouraged to have multiple healthy relationships throughout it's life will adapt much more successfully and make new bonds much more smoothly than one who has been kept in a "one person" mode. Parrots are by nature highly social and sociable, critters and it's your duty as a caregiver, to foster trusting birds.

So, how do we do this? First off, if you really want to maintain a strong primary bond with your bird, don't get him a buddy! Especially another bird of the same species, where a true "pair-bond" will most likely form. Even in cross-species "buddy bonds" birds can become territorial and aggressive toward their humans during hormonal times.

Secondly, although we love and indulge our parrots, don't "spoil" them in the sense that you are not providing guidance. Like young children, parrots want and need "rules" and guidelines for living. Ignore most negative behaviors, and strongly reinforce the positive ones. Use "step up/down," play "the towel game," give lots of positive reinforcement every time ("Good step up!" "Good bird!" "I like that!") Don't succumb to "quick fix" techniques, don't lose your temper and don't personalize perceived "mean" behavior from your bird. Gain an understanding of basic parrot behavior, practice positive reinforcement, and reinforce trust. Then your bonds will be strong and healthy ones.

by Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Consultant
Phone: (503)771-BIRD

Ellen DeGeneres & Quito the parrot

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 28 Mar 2007 14:58:00 +0000

Great video from the Ellen DeGeneres show.

Acclimating New Birds

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Mon, 26 Mar 2007 11:08:00 +0000

Now that my services have expanded into the "matchmaking" business, It dawned on me that we need to talk about the transition of a bird moving to a new home, whether a hand fed baby just adopted to a new home or an older bird going to a second home. This is a stressful time for any bird, but you can help lessen the strife and make the move easier for both your new bird and the rest of the family.

Good planning ahead of time is essential. A pet parrot should NEVER be an impulse buy. Adopting a companion parrot is just that - ADOPTING a new family member - they're not used cars to be traded in when you get bored! They are living, feeling, sensitive beings who should always be considered PERMANENT additions to the family. I'll never forget the first local bird expo I went to after moving to the Northwest. It was winter - cold and rainy, and I saw a person after person exiting the expo, each with a tiny baby African Grey tucked under their coats. There was a vendor inside with lots of cute baby Grays and a cheap price - apparently, many folks couldn't resist. Since no one seemed to have brought a carrier, it didn't seem to me that these were "planned" purchases, but rather spur of the moment purchases. I wonder how many went home to a nice cage, all set up with new toys and the proper diet? Not many, I'll bet. It's a deadly combo - cute, cheap, and baby! I'll bet not too many folks had done their homework either, studying up on African Greys and bird care in general.

The other common scenario is the "petshop rescue" - the pitiful bird at some pet store that knows nothing about birds - there he is, in a tiny cage, eating sunflower seeds, no toys, tucked in between the hamsters and the snakes, while the resident shop cat climbs freely through the store. So, on a whim, you take him home.

So, whether it's the irresistible baby, the sad ill cared for rescue, or an actual well thought out carefully chosen new addition - there he is, coming in your front door, hoping to spend the rest of his life with you, his ever loving devoted family!! So how do we transition from scared outsider to contented feathered child?

First, be prepared. Have the cage, toys, and food all set up prior to his arrival so he can slide right in and not have to stand by while everyone scrambles around, frantically searching for bird stuff. Normally, we advise putting a bird's cage in the busiest part of the house, where he can be the center of attention. But new birds need some space, quiet and privacy during the settling in process, so find him a comfortable safe corner where he can observe, but at a distance. Of course, he should have made a trip to the vet first thing and quarantining him for at least one month away from any other birds is always recommended. So this may not be his permanent location, but rather serve as a "pit-stop" in the beginning. You may want to partially cover his cage, draping a towel over the back and one side to help him feel safe. If possible, have some of his previous diet to mix in with the new (wonderful) cuisine you'll be serving.

Find out as much as possible about, not only his diet, but preference in toys, play time, bed time, and daily routine. Keeping some consistency helps for a smoother transitional time. Radical changes don't agree with many parrots, so go slow. Introduce him to every family member, but avoid anyone doing too much "hands on" stuff in the beginning. Rather, spend time just sitting by him, talking to him and offering some treats by hand. Don't force him or expect instant love. Work on building trust with "step-ups". Play "The Towel Game" to have interactive fun, as well as aiding future needs for handling by a vet or groomer.

Put your new guy on a regular schedule. Feed him lots of fresh veggies and nice warm cooked grains and legumes. Warm food is "comfort food" and helps strengthen the bond when fed by hand. Share some family dinner with him, preferably on a stand by the dining table. Watch TV together and preen his head feathers for him while you hang out on the couch. Include him in lots of family activities to help him feel a part of the flock. If everyone is gone to work or school during the day, leave a radio or TV on and make sure he's got plenty of interesting toys that provide both chewing exercise and mental stimulation. Talk to him before leaving, tell him he's okay and reassure him that you'll be back. When you do return give him a warm hello and a big hug. If you do have other birds, try to maintain the flock order. It won't help him relax if the other birds are resentful of all the attention the new guy gets. Always address your primary bird first - first one out, first one kissed, first one fed, etc. Don't allow the birds to get together until you're sure everyone gets along. First time together, it's helpful if it's on a neutral new stand that no one is territorial about. If you expect the two to ultimately share a cage, remember that will take time and patience - you don't want the new guy intimidated by an overbearing dominant "resident" who thinks he runs the place.

An important point to remember - don't make the mistake of totally doting on the bird at first, then ignoring him after the novelty wears off. He'll definitely need extra attention in the beginning, but try to maintain a balance from the start, to avoid rebound problems down the road. So be prepared, go slow, build trust, and have fun getting to know each other. This is the beginning of a beautiful lifelong friendship.

by Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Counselor
Phone: (503) 771-BIRD

How to Keep Your Bird Busy

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sun, 25 Mar 2007 19:28:00 +0000

In nature, your bird would be busy the whole day. Birds fly to find something to eat, play with their flock mates, bathe, etc. When we have them in our homes, we generally only spend limited time with them. Even when we don't have to leave for 8-10 hours to earn some food for them, we still have things to do, while they have to occupy themselves when they don't eat or sleep.

How can we keep them occupied? There are many toys that keep them busy for a while, but usually that is not enough. Some birds are happy to chew up all kinds of things, others need challenges, and a toy that is very interesting to one bird may be rather boring for the next. Usually with a little attention we can find ways to entertain them.

So, what can we do to provide stimuli and entertainment when we don't have time to interact with them? One possibility is to provide something to get your bird to work for its food. There are many different toys that do that; for example, Hide-A-Treats, Pyramid Puzzle and Carousel Treat holders. My birds always look to see if something is in there, even if they found nothing the last few times they looked. If they have several of these kinds of treat providers, the goody can be put into another one every day.

There are lots of simple things that give them something to do, like paper, boxes, old socks, etc. With 14 birds, I sometimes have to be very inventive to find the right thing for each bird. For some of my Conures and my Indian Ringneck, the wood blocks to shred can't be big enough. The smaller birds get the rest of the blocks that the bigger birds leave. One of my conures and my macaws don't touch anything but leather. They chew for hours on anything - even just strings, as long as it is made of leather - and turn them into tiny little pieces. My red-fronted loves metal things, which are best when they can be taken apart.

My cockatoo needs challenges. He needs things to take apart, and it is even better when he can rebuild something from them. His favorite is bunches of quick links on a chain. Unscrewing them and putting them on the bars of his cage occupies him for hours. Also, all kinds of chains are another favorite. I have one plastic chain that he tied on the cage bars in a way that I can't get them off anymore. I hope that one day he will get tired of them there and take them off again. He also likes goofy links, because he can take them apart and put them all over the cage on the bars or at the perch or on other toys. He has chains and ropes woven all over his cage. I just hang them there and he produces all kinds of art with them.

Some other birds like things that rattle. My GW, for example, sometimes likes to chew wood blocks, other times she does not even look at them for weeks and takes a sisal rope apart or rattles her plastic toys for hours.

Some birds just like to organize things, so for them some containers with things to take out and put back in are a lot of fun. For example, my grey loves a box on his cage floor, loaded with wood blocks, plastic toys, and pieces of bird kabobs. He takes them out, puts them all over the cage, and puts them back into the container. Sometimes he chews some of them up. The container can also be rolled around and makes wonderful noises that way. Socks also occupy him; he chews the most artistic designs into them.

For almost 9 years, I thought my budgies didn't like to chew anything, until the day I put some balsa buddies in their cage. The thing was gone within a few hours. It just takes the right thing.

It does not do much good to just provide a bunch of toys. We have to figure out the right ones. It sometimes takes awhile and some money, but when we find the right object, it is a lot of fun to watch our little artists working. So, go for it!

by Gudrun Maybaum, Avian Nutrition and Herb Consultant
www.totallyorganics.com E-mail: gudrun@totallyorganics.com

Another Smart Parrot

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sat, 24 Mar 2007 12:07:00 +0000

Great video showing the intelligents of parrots. Also, very entertaining.

Five Ways To Pamper Your Parrot

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sat, 24 Mar 2007 11:59:00 +0000

We are all busy these days and I know it’s hard to meet all the demands in your life. But, it’s time for a breather. Take an some time with each of your feathered kids and give them the royal treatment. I know some of you out there have multiple birds, so it doesn’t have to be all the parrots in the same day! Get into the habit of doing at least a short version of this regularly. Your parrots will thank you! Some birds are more 'social' than others. Two of mine I can pick up and snuggle with without fear of needing stitches. The other one I have to be really careful with. I use a stick as his main form of transport. No matter what level of 'snuggliness' your parrot prefers, you can adjust each step to your parrot’s comfort level.

I hope both you and your feathered kids have a great time. Not only is this a great time for your bird, but you get a relax a bit as well. For an added bonus, turn the phone off!

Spend some quality one-on-one time

Just hang out together. Let them help you pick up around the house. My cockatoo likes to help me fold laundry. One of my African Greys prefers to chat in English back and forth. My other African Grey likes to sit on me and get scratches while I lay on the couch.

He runs up and down me, the couch and sometimes perches on my knee and just sits there. You could put on some rainforest or classical music and just sit quietly together for a little bit. There are no rules, the point is just to give your bird your undivided attention.

Share a meal

Fix up some nice vegetables, fruit, pasta or any other bird-safe dish that pleases your parrot’s palate. Share with your bird, heck, eat off the same plate. One bite for you, one little bite for them. Of course, remember to give them their own spoon or fork so you don’t give them your icky human germs.

Interactive Play

Hand toys like birdie bagels, barbells or marbella shapes; a piece of rope, a popsicle stick, a towel, even a wadded up piece of paper can be really run interactive bird toys.

There are hundreds of safe and fun things to play with. Lighten up and show your bird a good time. One of my African Greys loves to play catch with a wadded up piece of paper. When catch time is over, he loves to shred it up. It doesn’t have to be expensive, it just has to be fun!

New Toy

Give your parrot something new to do when hanging out in inside the cage! Remodel a little. Rearrange the toys that are in there and purchase a new one. Parrots get board! Why not buy an extra toy or two for later while you are at it. You could rotate the toys when your parrot loses interest in it. I have a birdie toy box that all my toys go into. Periodically, I pull their current toys out and put some from the box in. The others go back into the toy box for later use. If the toys are damaged quite a bit, see if you can use the parts from several toys to make a new toy. Rotating and recycling toys prevents boredom, saves you money and gives your parrot a change of scenery regularly.

Shower

What pampering session would be complete without a nice shower or bath? Depending on your parrot’s preference, let them splash around in the sink or tub. Mist your bird with a squirt bottle or for a finer water spray you could use a birdie mister like Mr. Mister. I use a Mr. Mister for all my parrots, in fact they have their own shower perch. Whatever they prefer, make it fun!

by Taylor Knight - Your Parrot Place

Parrot Tricks Video

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 23:43:00 +0000

Funny video of parrot doing tricks including golf.

What's That Bird Cage Made Of?

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 23:40:00 +0000

There are currently no standards regarding construction of bird cages for pet birds. Whether the cage is intended for small or large companion birds, the materials used for construction are as different as the designs themselves. The variability of materials is more extreme in smaller bird cages where cost is more often a primary consideration, and fewer demands are placed on the structural integrity of the cage. Large psittacines require greater tensile strength in cage components due to the extreme force these birds can exert with their beaks. The need for greater tensile strength usually translates into more costly materials and a more predictable product.

Components and Manufacturing Techniques for Indoor Birdcages

One of the most common materials used to make bird cages is steel. Steel is composed of iron and carbon and, if left untreated, oxidizes very easily. Grades of steel differ primarily in purity, varying in carbon or other alloy content. Higher grades of steel are typically subjected to heating processes that result in a tempered product with a smoother finish. Wrought iron and cold rolled steel are similar types of carbon steel, with wrought iron having a less finished surface and rougher texture, and cold rolled steel having a more finished, smoother surface. Hot rolled steel is subjected to additional heating processes that result in an even smoother finish. Regardless of how the carbon steel is produced, it must be finished with an anticorrosive material to prevent oxidation.

The best way to prevent corrosion and add tensile strength to steel is to add the elements chromium and nickel, producing stainless steel (S/S). Stainless steel cages have become extremely popular in the last few years as consumers demanded safer, longer lasting, and more beautiful enclosures. Stainless steel cages are designed to last for 50 years. If designed well, they provide a safe, secure, beautiful, and easy to maintain enclosure. The high cost of these enclosures reflects the increased costs of raw materials and more labor intensive construction techniques. Stainless steel cages are most commonly used to house larger psittacine species. They are particularly well suited for large macaws and cockatoos which are capable of dismantling inferior materials. Stainless steel cages have also become popular for many medium sized birds. Even though these birds usually do not test the structural integrity of the enclosure, stainless steel cages provides a safe, lasting, easy to maintain environment for pet birds.

Powder coating is a technique commonly used to prevent corrosion of steel. It provides a durable finish that helps protect steel components. Powder coating involves the electrostatic application of a specialized paint, followed by high temperature baking. The finished product is versatile and attractive. Although originally designed for lawn furniture, this technique caught on in bird cage production. Some of the original powder coating formulas contained high levels of zinc to harden the finish and speed curing time. Most formulas currently in use have eliminated the need for zinc. Variability in paint formulas and application processes will affect the finished product and can result in chipping, peeling, and corrosion. Most cages commercially available today for medium and large psittacines species are powder coated steel. These cages, if properly manufactured, will provide decades of service and functional, safe, beautiful enclosures. Recent market trends show a rising demand for powder coated cages for smaller birds like budgerigars, cockatiels, and lovebirds.

While powder coated steel is the safest type of painted cage, some manufacturers sell powder coated galvanized wire cages as an inexpensive alternative. These cages pose an increased risk of zinc consumption. In many cases this is due to the fact that proper preparation for powder coating involves some roughening of the surface to be painted. This roughening can pit the galvanized surface and result in irregularities. Powder coating often adheres poorly to slick galvanized surfaces and can quickly peel and flake. The paint flakes can contain high levels of zinc, which has leached from the galvanizing into the powder coating. Pet birds intent on cage chewing can quickly ingest toxic levels of zinc and/or lead which is a common industrial contaminant of some galvanized wire (see below). Unfortunately, most owners who purchase these cages are unaware that they are buying an inferior product.

While stainless or powder coated steel cages are ideal, less expensive methods of preventing corrosion are commonly used in bird cages designed for smaller psittacines, whose owners tend to be more cost conscious. The most commonly used method involves electro-plating steel wire with an inexpensive metal to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Zinc is probably the most commonly used metal for electroplating. Some manufacturers will layer different metals over the steel to achieve the desired result. The resulting wire is usually a shiny silver color but can also be shiny gold. Most electroplated finishes contain at least some zinc. An informal survey of commercially available cages (8 randomly chosen) for smaller parrots revealed zinc levels in the plating from .5% to 42%. Electrostatically applied plating is unlikely to be consumed by a bird as long as the finish is smooth. However, once the cage shows signs of oxidation, pitting, loss of sheen, or white rust, the cage poses unacceptable risk of zinc ingestion, and should be replaced. Cage grates are likely to show degenerative changes first because of the constant exposure to droppings and food waste. Oxidation of these surfaces often result in deposits of elemental zinc. These deposits appear as white burrs or pits. These imperfections can draw the attention of birds. When removed and ingested by birds, these deposits can result in potentially dangerous zinc exposures. Birds that develop behaviors involving chewing, mouthing, or biting the cage are at increased risk and would be safer in a zinc free enclosure.

Another inexpensive method of preventing oxidation involves coating steel or galvanized wire with plastic or vinyl. While these coatings do protect wire from oxidation, they can be easily removed by busy birds. Plastic and vinyl coatings often degrade quickly and flake off the underlying wire. As lead is a common ingredient of plastic and vinyl, pieces of coating ingested by birds can expose the bird to toxic metals. In addition, ingested coating can act as a gastrointestinal irritant, regardless of its metal content. When a vinyl or plastic coating is used over galvanized wire, there is the added risk of zinc ingestion if the wire is chewed on and eaten.

Galvanizing is the process of coating steel wire with zinc by dipping it into molten zinc. This method is the least expensive way of preventing corrosion of steel wire. Galvanized wire can be distinguished from plated wire in that it is a dull gray, rather than a shiny silver. There are two primary types of galvanized wire commercially available. Wire galvanized prior to welding is commonly produced in the Unites States. Wire galvanized after welding is a process more typical of production in United Kingdom, Europe and Asia. Regardless of when the zinc is applied, the welds in most galvanized wire are electrostatic and contain no additional metals. Lead is a common manufacturing contaminant of some galvanizing processes and will obviously increase the risk of problems if consumed. Using higher grades of wire will minimize the risk of lead exposure.

Galvanized cages are the least expensive bird enclosures available, and are often manufactured in large sizes suitable for flight. They are also light and easy to move. Unfortunately the behavior characteristics of many birds include picking at, chewing, and ingesting anything available. For these birds a galvanized cage can pose a huge risk of zinc intoxication. The number of birds adversely affected by these cages is likely under-reported because thorough diagnostics are often not run. The toxic potential of zinc ingestion has been proven but much remains unknown about the impact of chronic, non lethal exposure.1,2,3 In fact, the biologic mechanisms of lethal exposures remain poorly defined.

Properly finishing galvanized wire eliminates blebs and imperfections, making the cage less inviting to chew. Excess material at welds creates easily removable pieces of elemental zinc. If ingested, these pieces can contribute to disease. Wire that is galvanized after welding usually has a smoother surface, and therefore becomes the preferred wire for aviculture. New galvanized wire is often coated with a petroleum based protective oil. If not washed off prior to use, and if ingested, this oil can pose additional health risks. Sheffield Manufacturing, producers of Tinsley Wire, requires that rolls of wire be sold with a warning label advising of the risk of zinc ingestion, of the need to prepare the wire for usage by removing any residues of oil, and of the need to use a soft brush to remove any tags of material. 4

Many aviculturists mistakenly think that treating galvanized wire with a vinegar wash will remove any risk of zinc ingestion. While vinegar will dissolve small, oxidized deposits and hasten their removal with a soft brush, vinegar will not remove the zinc coating from the wire.

Acrylic cages have appeared on the market as an alternative to traditional metal wire cages. They certainly offer the advantage of using safe, relatively inexpensive materials and many bird owners find them appealing. Certainly they have distinct advantages for debris containment. However, this same property gives rise to problems with air quality and ventilation. Some have additional built in air cleaners to address air quality problems. Whereas these cages may be suitable at moderate temperatures, the small airspace could become overheated at warmer temperatures.

Great Parrot Video

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 15:09:00 +0000

This video just goes to show how amazing and intelligent the avian species really is.

Clicker Training For Pet Birds

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:28:00 +0000

Does your parrot scream or bite? These are two very common and very annoying behaviors. Especially when company is over! If you are at your wits end, give clicker training a shot. Since we can not reason, or sometimes beg, with our pets, we must communicate through other means. Clicker training helps bridge the communication gap and be quite successful in ending bothersome behaviors.

You don’t have to be a professional trainer to teach your pet. Owners have successfully trained their parrots to hold their wings out for feather trimming and hold out their toes for nail cutting. Can you imagine your bird holding still while you put a harness on it in order to go outdoors? And the joy of a veterinary examination without biting! Bring on the clicker training.

Before you can teach Polly how to fly around freely and come when called, you must first teach her what the clicker is. So, what is a clicker? A clicker is a small, hand-held devise that makes a “clicking” noise when pressed. You can purchase a clicker at any pet supply store. Now, just going around clicking is not going to do anything for your bird. The next step is to teach her that the clicker is good.

When beginning, don’t make your parrot do too much to get a treat. In fact, they need not do anything at all. For the first session or two have your treats ready and hand them out freely. Good treats are nuts and seeds. For about 5-10 min just press your clicker and then give your bird a treat. The idea here is for the bird to put the sound and the treat together. “Click-Click” means “treat-treat.” Birds are smart and it won’t take long for the connection to be made.

Once the sound and treat mechanism is established, try to get an actual response from your bird before pressing your clicker and handing out a treat. Trainers use what they call a “target.” This target is some sort of object that the bird can touch and then get rewarded with the click and treat. Often, your bird will accidentally touch whatever you choose as the target. Who cares?! Click and treat. Soon your bird will figure out that to get a treat he needs to touch the target. You do need to take care when picking a target. After your bird is trained to look for the target, you can then use it to lead your bird to another target. And it’s definitely wise not to use their perch. Once you get the basics down, there are a myriad of tricks you can teach your parrot. It all depends on what your end goal is.

Training your parrot truly doesn’t take terribly long. Birds are smart and you will be quickly rewarded with the time you spend together. Remember to have fun, your bird will sense it and be even more responsive to your training!

Emergency Preparedness Planning for Parrots

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:16:00 +0000

No one likes to think about emergencies which threaten the lives of family, friends, or parrots. Such experiences can be intense, upsetting, and scary, to say the least. Nevertheless, planning and practicing for those moments when you need to act quickly to save lives, both human and avian, can help make the experience safer and less stressful.

Emergency preparedness covers a wide range of conditions and there is no way to be ready for every situation. An emergency could be as small as an extended winter power outage, as intensely personal as a house fire, or as generally dangerous as a forest fire, flood, wind storm, volcanic eruption, or earthquake.

The primary goal of emergency preparedness planning is simply to be as ready as possible in case of evacuation or the loss of normal day-to-day amenities such as utilities, phones, or even a reliable transportation system. You cannot be prepared for EVERYTHING: be a generalist, be inventive, adapt and improvise!

Here in Alaska, the 1996 Miller's Reach fire -- which devastated a huge area north of Anchorage -- made it painfully apparent that some kind of orderly emergency response process was necessary for animals in addition to the established plans for humans. While there was a great outpouring of assistance from the general community during the fire, it was often uncoordinated and, sometimes, ineffective. In addition, some people were sleeping in their cars with their pets because the human shelters would not allow them inside with their companion animals.

In response to these circumstances, People for Emergency Preparedness Planning for Animals in Alaska (PEPPA) took form in August, 1996 two months after the Miller's Reach fire. Working with other volunteer organizations brought together under the umbrella group called Voluntary Organizations Active in Disasters (VOAD), PEPPA's goal is to provide emergency response sheltering and veterinary assistance for animals who are the victims of emergencies.

Since PEPPA's inception, the topic of animal emergency preparedness has come up in a number of places across the country. Many local and state governments have either already included animals in their emergency response plans, or are trying to figure out how to do this. Even the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has recognized the importance of considering the needs of animals in emergencies.

Other than our obvious personal needs for saving our non-human companions, for emergency response organizations there are three big benefits in incorporating animals in disaster response planning: 1) If people with animals have to evacuate, they tend to leave with less delay if their animals are allowed to evacuate with them; 2) People who have evacuated their animals are less likely to return to a dangerous area to retrieve their pets, an act that endangers themselves as well as any emergency response personnel who have to retrieve or rescue them; and 3) stress levels for people in emergency shelters tend to be reduced when their loved ones and animals are safe.

However, while emergency response organizations are immensely helpful during disasters, WE are the first line of defense in protecting our families, human and otherwise. It is vitally important for pet owners to have appropriate supplies available and to practice personal response to emergencies and evacuations. For the first 72 to 96 hours of a major disaster, self-reliance can make a huge difference in the quality of life for ourselves and our animals.

Prepare your human family disaster kit first! FEMA, the American Red Cross, and local emergency agencies have lots of information about what to have in your disaster survival kit. If you cannot take care of yourself and your family, you aren't going to be of much help to your birds!

Finally, many of the guidelines and suggestions in this presentation assume the availability of some kind of emergency evacuation shelter for your birds. This may be the home of a friend or family member, or a shelter established by emergency response agencies. Check with your local emergency response people and see what their plan is for animals. If they give you a deer-in-the-headlights stare, make your own arrangements, then get active in your community and make emergency shelters a reality.

WHAT DO I NEED, AND WHAT DO I DO WITH IT?

Here are some suggested bird-related items to have on hand in case of an emergency in addition to the supplies set aside for human use. Remember that you may have to adjust the quantities and types of items mentioned here to fit your flock! Also, it is better to have a little more than necessary, but not so much that you cannot easily transport the supplies.

WATER: 1 to 2 quarts per day for large birds, for drinking and bathing. A good rule of thumb: keep track of how much water you give your birds each day, double that amount, and store a seven-day supply.

FOOD: store a seven-day supply. Pelleted diets, dehydrated fruits and vegetables, pasta, seeds, and other "dry" foods should be kept in airtight containers. On a regular basis, rotate the emergency food into the daily food supply and store fresh food in the emergency containers. Do not assume that there will be cooking facilities available for special foods; if you shelter at home, you may not have power or gas for refrigeration or cooking, and an emergency shelter may not have a kitchen at all.

SPRAY BOTTLE: for cleaning and misting the birds

FOOD AND WATER DISHES: something non-breakable and easily cleaned.

GARBAGE BAGS, PAPER TOWELS, BIRD-SAFE DISINFECTANT: for general cage and carrier cleaning. Nolvasan, a 1:20 bleach:water solution, OxyFresh: use a product that you are familiar with as your emergency disinfectant.

PORTABLE CAGES OR CARRIERS: collapsible models are commercially available, as are airline kennels. Special cardboard carriers may be available from some vets or pet supply stores. Write your name and address on the carrier using an indelible marker, or on a tag attached to the carrier or cage.

CAGE COVERS: old sheets or large towels work well. Blankets may be more appropriate for cold weather emergencies. Even if you do not normally cover your bird at night, an emergency cover is a good idea because in the shelter other birds and animals may be visible to your bird, adding stress to an already upsetting environment.

TOWELS: for restraining birds for handling, exams, or treatment. Many folks prefer having their bird held in a towel from home, rather than one which was already used on another bird.

NEWSPAPER: or other bird-safe, easily disposable cage/carrier lining.

BIRD CAGE TOYS: select something familiar from the regular cage, or similar to normal cage toys. This can help ease the turmoil of evacuation or special sheltering conditions.

MEDICINES: keep all pet medicines in one location at home, preferably in a waterproof container which can be grabbed on the run. Store special instructions for administering medications and any other important medical history with the medicine, or with the identification documentation.

AVIAN FIRST AID KIT: this can be the general kit for use at home, or preferably, an emergency kit stored with the other emergency supplies.

BIRD IDENTIFICATION DOCUMENTATION: ideally, have two photographs of each bird; you keep one, the other goes with the bird. You can write important information on the back of each photo, such as your name; phone number; address; a description of the bird; the name of the bird; microchip ID if appropriate; tattoo ID if appropriate; pet insurance policy number; leg band numbers; and any other information which links your bird to you.

BABY BIRD SUPPLIES: if you have breeding pairs of birds, plan for baby bird emergency supplies as well. Store and periodically rotate a supply of hand feeding formula. Also store a supply of syringes, spoons, pipettes, or whatever is used to feed the babies. Set aside some type of portable, durable emergency brooder for the babies, such as 2-1/2 gallon buckets or plastic containers. Also, consider a heat source for the babies: a heating pad is OK if electricity is available; a hot water bottle can also be used if there is a way to heat water; a third alternative is a chemical "heat pack" which can be stored until needed.

WHAT DO I PUT ALL THIS STUFF IN?

A large, lidded garbage or large Rubbermaid storage container makes an excellent place to store emergency avian supplies. Supplies can also be stored in a pet carrier, crate, or kennel.

Make sure the supplies and birds will fit your vehicle! An evacuation event is not the time to discover your carefully prepared emergency supplies don't fit in the car! If necessary, make arrangements with friends and family for emergency transportation. Have backup plans, and backup-backup plans for transport.

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!

Just as with family fire drills, it is important to practice quick, safe evacuations of your birds. Since the evacuation drill can be stressful to your birds, consider using stuffed animals for practice. Another possibility is to turn the drills into a game for your birds so they will be easier to handle in case of a real evacuation. You will need to decide the best way to handle emergency drills with the members of your animal family.

If a speedy evacuation becomes necessary, trying to assemble pet carriers or portable cages may take up valuable time, so try to store them in an assembled state. If this is not possible, consider the use of "cable tie" plastic strips to connect the top and bottom of pet carrier shells. As an alternative for birds, a pillow case or small cloth bag could be used; the pet carriers or cages can be assembled later and the evacuees transferred to them from the bags. The ultimate goal is to have emergency evacuation containers which are almost-immediately available if necessary.

SMALL-SCALE EMERGENCIES

SHELTER-IN-PLACE: Follow standard guidelines for making sure your house is safe to stay in. If you use auxiliary heating, cooking, or power generation equipment, make sure they are adequately ventilated so that a carbon monoxide buildup is not a hazard.

EVACUATION: Animal assistance organizations may not be activated. Talk to family, friends, and/or your veterinarian ahead of time for emergency housing arrangements.

LARGE-SCALE EMERGENCIES

SHELTER-IN-PLACE: Follow standard guidelines for making sure your house is safe to stay in. If you use auxiliary heating, cooking, or power generation equipment, make sure they are adequately ventilated so that a carbon monoxide buildup is not a hazard. 72-96 hours may pass before full recovery efforts are underway, so be prepared to feed and house your family and flock for at least that long.

EVACUATION: Listen to the radio for evacuation and shelter instructions. Standard transportation routes may be unavailable, so plan for alternate routes as needed. Transport your birds to the nearest safe haven or animal evacuation shelter.

If you own or have easy access to a recreational vehicle, such as a camper, trailer, or motor home, it may serve as an excellent emergency shelter, depending on its size and how it is equipped for heating and ventilation.

EVACUATION AND THE SHELTER ENVIRONMENT

If you do have to evacuate to a public shelter, remember that they are for people only; health and safety concerns make it impossible for animals to coexist with humans at such a shelter. For this reason, if an emergency animal shelter has been established, it will be in a separate facility. In a "normal" emergency, you will register your pet at the animal-related facility first and then register yourself with the agency operating the human shelter.

Be prepared for an environment of "controlled chaos" at the shelter, depending on the severity and scope of the emergency. Veterinarians and/or emergency vet technicians should be available at the animal-related facility. A triage process will be in place; injured animals will be stabilized and transported to veterinary facilities, and healthy animals will be transported to safe housing.

Life in the emergency shelter will be strange and stressful, especially when compounded by worry about your human and animal family members. Sometimes, visiting your pets at their shelter may be possible; it all depends on the nature of the emergency. For this, and to help reunite you with your companion animal after the emergency is over, being able to link each animal to their human is vital.

For this reason, it is very important to have your name and address on the carrier or cage, a photo of your animal, and other backup identification information.

In review, take care of your family emergency preparedness plan first, then work on your kit for the birds; be flexible in how you can respond to an emergency; prepare to take care of yourself and your family (human and otherwise) for up to 96 hours; and practice evacuations so that the process is easier to deal with when it is time for the real thing.

Funny African Grey

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 01:51:00 +0000

Parrot Personality Profiles

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 01:18:00 +0000

There is no single perfect parrot species just as there is no perfect parrot owner. Each species we breed can make a wonderful pet for the well-informed and realistic individual. Each species is a compromise of positive traits as well as some weaknesses. Many incorrect generalizations and outright myths exist about virtually any species you'd care to name and it is a wrong to take them literally. It is important that they be dispelled up front lest they contribute to bad choices being made. For example, articles and Internet chat postings abound about neurotic feather plucking African Greys, aggressive sexually mature Amazons, moody Eclectus or unpredictable Hawkheads. Every type of animal and all of humanity has individuals with the potential for aberrant behaviors. Most behavior problems with companion parrots occur as a direct result of inadvertent mistakes made by the owner which are further exacerbated by a lack of proper information or unrealistic expectations.

Parrots essentially become what their owners teach them to be, either deliberately or inadvertently. Behavioral problems seem to be reported at the speed of light and tend to overshadow any good news. It is absolutely amazing how a few writers can "contaminate" a species with their words of "wisdom". It is simply incorrect to draw conclusions about a certain species from the reported bad behavior of an individual or even a few individual birds of that species, especially when someone who didn't know what they were doing caused the problem.

There is a great deal that can be done to prevent or correct aberrant behavior in parrots and the solution lies in proper education. It is the new owner's responsibility to acquire that knowledge and bring out the best behavior in any companion parrot. Sally Blanchard, one of the most experienced and respected parrot behavior consultants states very clearly in The Beak Book - "Behavioral problems are NEVER the parrot's fault ".

Individual Personalities:
Just like people, each parrot is an individual with it's own unique personality. Many factors such as genetics, upbringing, socialization, training, life stages, and other environmental factors all contribute to personality development. Therefore it is very difficult to generalize about personality traits for any parrot species. Exceptions to any general trait can exist among different individuals, even among clutch mates.

Domestication:
Although Parrots are now bred domestically, they are far from being domesticated animals like dogs or cats. Domestic-bred parrots are at best only a few generations removed from their counterparts in the wild. They are genetically wild creatures socialized to life in the human habitat. They have no conception of being "owned" or how to be a good "pet". Therefore it is essential not to have unrealistic expectations of them. People must learn to understand, accept, accommodate and appreciate natural parrot behaviour rather than become disappointed when their baby bird grows up and behaves differently than expected because of its genetic programming.

A Lifetime Commitment:
The purchase of a parrot should be viewed as nothing less than a lifetime commitment. With proper care many parrots will live a human life span. Never purchase a bird on impulse, under sales pressure or strictly out of pity for a bad situation. Never acquire more birds than you can properly care for and devote enough attention to or problems will surely develop. No one expects a human child to remain cute & cuddly forever. Some children grow up to be perfect angels, yet others become cantankerous old farts. There is a place in our world for everyone and so it should be with parrots. Please take the time and spend a few dollars up front to become properly educated in the principles of normal parrot behaviour (babies vs. adults). There are many excellent books available written by very perceptive, knowledgeable & experienced authors. This will provide a sound basis for a great lifetime relationship with your bird.

The Plain Truth:
Parrots are noisy, messy, potentially destructive, costly to purchase and keep, and they need lots of time & attention. There are just varying degrees of these factors between different species. Also, all parrots have beaks and they will bite the hand that feeds them under certain conditions.

Finally - The Personality Profiles:
The following information on the species we breed is based on personal experience. It is presented in as unbiased a manner as possible so that people can make an informed decision as to which species is best suited for them. The positive attributes are what you can normally expect from a properly raised, properly socialized and well cared for bird. The potential concerns are what you may encounter with certain individuals under different circumstances.

All Species:
Potential for the development of aggressive or unpredictable behaviour certainly does exist for a wide variety of reasons with mistakes made by the owner and the lack of proper training being primary causes. It seems that every dog owner understands the necessity and importance of proper handling and training of their animal. By comparison, very few novice parrot people understand that the same requirements apply to parrots until bad behavior develops.

African Greys:
Unquestionably, African Greys are the most popular species we breed. Many people choose an African Grey after being disappointed with the talking ability of another species. Warning! If you already have a noisy parrot, getting a Grey may quickly double the problem because of its exceptional mimicking ability.

African Grey Positive Attributes:
* African Greys have a reputation as the best talking parrot species. They can develop an extensive vocabulary and repertoire of unusual sounds. They can also replicate the tone of a persons voice to perfection.
* They are highly intelligent and have a great capacity for learning.
* African Greys can be very cuddly and affectionate, but they require an attentive and gentle owner to stay that way long term.
* They are relatively quiet and make a variety of natural sounds that are pleasant to the ear. As a result, African Greys are considered to be easy to live with birds.
* African Greys are relatively non aggressive as a species, even during breeding.

African Grey Potential Concerns:
* African Greys are special birds that require owners with adequate time, patience and empathy in order that the bird can lead a happy and fulfilled life. They do best in stable homes and often poorly in others.
* Some African Greys are prone to becoming nervous or fearful birds. Fearfulness is the most common problem avian behaviourists are asked to deal with in Greys. Certain individuals do become feather pluckers especially if they were raised incorrectly or are constantly under stress. Mistakes made in their care & handling by owners who don't understand the sensitivity of this species can contribute to this problem.
* African Greys thrive best in an intellectually stimulating environment. They can become easily bored.
* Greys tend to dislike change unless the owner deliberately conditions the parrot to accept change early in life and continuously there after.
* African Greys can easily develop into one-person birds.
* African Greys produce lots of feather dust but not as much as a white Cockatoo. People with respiratory illness in the house should seriously consider a different species.
* Their eating habits can be quite messy and wasteful compared to other parrot species. Some Greys love to pick up a fist full of pellets or seeds and see how far they can throw them.
* African Greys are susceptible to calcium deficiency problems if fed incorrectly or if given insufficient access to natural sunlight or full spectrum lighting.

Amazons:
In our opinion, Amazons fit the bill as the best overall species we breed for the majority of people. They are highly resilient and very adaptable birds.

Amazon Positive Attributes:
* Several species (YN, DYH and BF) have exceptional talking ability, which rivals that of African Greys. Double Yellow-heads are also renowned for their opera singing ability.
* Amazons are normally very confident and particularly gregarious.
* Amazons are one of the very least prone species to develop neurotic behaviours such as feather plucking or fearfulness.
* Amazons are very colourful although many bright colours are hidden in folded wings & tails.
* Amazons are normally very playful & entertaining. They are able to amuse themselves with little difficulties compared to other species while their owners are away at work.
In general, Amazons cope very well with changes in their daily routine and lives.

Amazon Potential Concerns:
* Some Amazons can be relatively noisy at times. This varies considerably among sub species and individuals.
* A springtime hormonal rush can cause temporary aggressive behaviour. Read the article Understanding Amazon Behaviour for detailed information.
* Amazons are prone to becoming obese when fed inappropriately.
* In some sub species such as Yellow-napes and Double Yellow-heads, full adult colouration is not achieved for several years. So patience is needed before some Amazons "bloom" in appearance.

Eclectus:
They are a very unique and beautiful species from the South Pacific. They look, act, and behave significantly differently from all other species.

Eclectus Positive Attributes:
* Eclectus are gorgeous in appearance. They are often referred to as having an elegant appearance. They are especially striking when kept as true pairs because they are sexually dimorphic. Males are primarily Green and females are primarily red & blue. Their unusual velvet/fur like feather structure on the breast & head makes them unique in the parrot world.
* They are relatively quiet birds often suitable for apartment living.
* Eclectus are less destructive chewers than other species.
* They have excellent talking ability and a most pleasant speaking voice.
* Eclectus are not normally one-person birds.
* They do not demand a large amount of hands on attention. Eclectus are quite content to be near their owners and interact on an intellectual rather than physical level with their owner.

Eclectus Potential Concerns:
* Eclectus behave much differently from other parrot species. Owners must become educated in this area to truly appreciate the uniqueness of this species. For example, fixation (delayed reaction) behaviour is normal with this species and is generally misunderstood, especially by people experience with other species. Eclectus simply think before they act.
* Some Eclectus are prone to feather plucking especially if mistakes are made in their diet and care. Red-Sided seem to be the least sensitive sub-species in this regard.
* A lack of adequate beta-carotene (precursor to Vitamin A) in the diet can lead to illness in Eclectus more quickly than in other species.
* Excess chemical vitamins, preservatives and artificial food colour agents in the diet can cause a variety of health, behaviour, and plumage problems.
* Eclectus can at times be quite moody (just like people).
* Mature Eclectus hens can be strongly motivated to make a nest and lay eggs, even without a male present. These hens may not actually want a mate. They just want to go through the nesting process even though they are pets.
Allowing a hen to play in dark areas (kitchen cupboards, boxes, etc.) can
trigger this behaviour.
* Some Eclectus can be quite cantankerous as youngsters. They do out grow this phase for patient and tolerant owners.
* Hybrid Eclectus are quite common in the pet trade. This is a very controversial subject. Hybrids do make good pets but are considered to be unsuitable as future breeders by responsible aviculturists wishing to preserve the pure sub species.

Hawk-Headed (Red Fan Parrot):
Personality-plus is something that all Hawkheads have. They are one of the most adorable bundles of feathers you will ever see. This is a fascinating species even for the most experienced aviculturist. We concur with the statement that Hawk-headed parrots make one of the greatest pet birds possible. Because of their rarity especially in companion bird situations, this species hasn't received nearly all the good press it deserves. It is highly under-rated as a companion bird.

Hawk-headed Parrot Positive Attributes:
* Hawkheads are incredibly energetic birds that thoroughly enjoy verbal and physical interaction with their owner. They take advantage of all the cage space available to them as their playground. They are a joy to watch at play.
* These playful clowns can be very affectionate. They love lying on their backs in the palm of their owner's hand or lap. We've observed ours sleeping on their back in the nest box.
* Hawkheads are very exotic in appearance particularly because of their stand up crest, which resembles an American Indian headdress. They project a very impressive presence for their size. They raise their crest whenever they become excited or frightened.
* They have very unusual and beautiful feather colouration.
* Hawkheads have a cute speaking voice and do have the ability to learn many words and phrases.
* Because of the shape of their beak, Hawkheads seem to us like they are always smiling. They are too cute.

Hawk-headed Parrot Potential Concerns:
* In order to have a well behaved pet for the long term, prevention of negative behaviors is extremely important. Advice on behavior issues should be obtained from someone experienced with this species and not from others. Treated with gentleness and respect, Hawkheads make endearing pets.
* Hawkheads may not be suitable for apartment dwellers as they do have a high-pitched natural call. Having said that, we do not find them to be particularly noisy when kept singly or with other quiet birds.
* Juveniles can have more green on the nape and less-defined blue-edged feathers on the chest. They aren't quite as colourful as the adult.

Conclusion:
Education and an open mind are prerequisites to developing a successful lifetime positive relationship with any pet parrot. All good relationships are based first and foremost on trust and enhanced with proper training. We wish you the best of luck with your choice of bird.

In The Bird's Mind

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Tue, 20 Mar 2007 01:12:00 +0000

Birds are emotional beings and can be highly sensitive. Your attentiveness to her needs and responses to stimuli, your understanding of her intellectual and emotional signals and your constant presence all contribute to the health and well-being of your bird. Without these, you risk distress, anxiety and resultant health disorders in your bird.

You have to pay attention. Your bird will display emotional patterns, which betray her inherent tendencies and behavior toward the world around her. Her needs will vary according to species, the atmosphere, her surroundings and the stimuli she must respond to. The bottom line is, your expression of emotional support to a needy, oftentimes dependent bird will be vital.

One of the most important ways you can express your attentiveness to your bird is simply by being there. If you are gone for much of the day, your bird will need special time with you in the morning or evening. Even if you're home during the day, but overly busy, your bird will want you to slow down a while to spend quality time with her. This relaxation period will not only be good for your bird, but will also be beneficial to you.

Remember, your bird requires a constant and methodical schedule of eating, playing and sleeping. If you skip playtime or considerably disrupt her routine, your bird may sink into a period of anxiety and confusion, and may attempt to win back your attention through self-mutilation.

Disruption and Degeneration

Harry, an Amazon parrot, spent the first two years of his life happily settled in his owner's living area in a second floor condominium in the suburbs. His owner talked to him, played with him and taught him new words. They even sang together. Suddenly Harry's world turned upside down, literally and figuratively. An earthquake, measuring just 4.5 on the Richter scale, struck his hometown. Although the quake lasted only a few minutes, it sent dishes crashing to the floor from their precarious perches along the narrow shelf near the ceiling.

The crash as the dishes hit the floor and the shudder of the concrete building as the condo walls flexed sent Harry into a tailspin. He no longer wanted to play and was even afraid of familiar toys and perches. Any newcomer in his owner's home was the enemy, and he responded by flapping about the cage, making peculiar squawking noises and hurting his delicate feathers on the cage bars.

This behavior soon turned to feather picking, a form of self-mutilation and a habit that greatly alarmed Harry's owner. She talked to him constantly, begging him to stop. She bought him treats and let him walk all over her table during mealtimes, but this departure from the normal routines and rules worsened the situation.

Finally, she read an article about skittish birds, which gave her the key to Harry's behavior. He needed continual training, constant emotional support and a methodical schedule of playtime, feedings and rest. Harry is now back on track, his wounds from his feather picking healed. He enjoys plenty of socialization time with his owner and any visitors she has in her home. Harry now spends his time in activity and rest. The stress of the earthquake still exists, as do other stresses such as loud police sirens, injuries, freeway noise and apartment living, but his now-predictable schedule and extra recovery time with his owner have helped him adjust from his stressful experience.

Insecurity and Interaction

Violet, a delightful female Budgie, wouldn't mount her owner's arm and frequently fell off her perch for no apparent reason. An insecure bird, Violet spent most of her day alone in her cage. A neighbor boy who visited her owner frequently would taunt her and poke at her through the cage bars without mercy.

One day, she bit her owner, who yelled, and Violet hid behind her water dish the rest of the evening. The next day, he caught Violet plucking feathers from her own body, but instead of reacting negatively to this behavior, Violet's owner used his head. He began to talk to Violet in soothing tones, giving her treats and lightly scratching her neck. Violet warmed up to this activity, but after a few minutes, she returned to her hideout behind the water dish.

The next morning, her owner was up early with Violet. He opened her cage and moved her gently to her perch. The bird seemed thrilled, stayed on the perch with ease and mounted her owner's arm when commanded. They played ball. Violet screeched with joy as she bit at the rubber ball and chased it under the couch. They went around and around for a full hour of playtime. After breakfast, her owner left for the office, and Violet settled down for a long wait. A few hours later, her owner was back for lunch and more play. He left music playing all afternoon, and when he returned home in the evening, they played more games.

Within a few weeks, Violet had stopped plucking her feathers, and she ran to the cage door to see her owner when he walked up. Her behavior had turned 180 degrees. Suddenly this normally insecure bird was receiving the stimulation she needed for survival. By having scheduled and routine interaction and playtimes, meals and rest, Violet became fully adjusted to her owner's work schedule.

Violet's owner also refused to allow the neighbor boy to come into his apartment, unless he was with his parents. This eliminated the last cause of stress for Violet, and she no longer feared strangers. Her owner understood that by ignoring the behavior and addressing the stress that was causing the behavior, he could much more quickly bring Violet's life back to normal.

Territory and Trauma

A territorial bird is not acting on instinct. She is simply suffering from a form of aggression. She thinks she needs to stake out a claim on a particular person, room or toy because of emotional instability, usually the result of some sort of trauma or unwanted pressure. Often, being harassed can lead to territorial tendencies in birds. Remember to ignore a negative behavior in your bird, since any behavior, negative or positive, will continue when given attention. The best approach is to maintain a schedule or return to an already existing routine, and stick with it.

Hormones and Mates

The sexually active bird is imitating its own behavior in the wild. Birds have frequent hormonal rushes and find themselves attracted to their reflection in a mirror or try to mate with their owners. Don't get a mate for your bird just because your African Gray is in love with you. Be patient with her. Remember that she is simply showing her affection for you. Place her back in her cage and continue on with your day, or place her on her perch and give her a spoken command. Continue to train your bird through this difficult behavior, always maintain a regular schedule and he will soon cool down.

Aggression and Adrenaline

The aggressive bird is often overloaded with excitement and not sure what to do with her adrenaline rush. A large Macaw may be thrilled with the idea of a visitor to your home, but you may not recognize her excitement as pleasure when she rushes at the cage bars or attempts to bite you or your visitor. This behavior stems from feeling overwhelmed and can be remedied by calmly ignoring the behavior. A Macaw may frequently use her voice to insult, bludgeon and intimidate any visitor, making the guest feel uneasy. Don't punish your bird for this display. Simply train her out of it. Teach her something nice to say to visitors instead, or if she can't say something nice, teach her not to say anything at all!

Patience and Persistence

Seeing into your bird's mind takes patience, knowledge and plenty of persistence, but it will pay handsomely in the final analysis. Give your bird time for adjustment, training and socialization, and you will be rewarded with a happy, well-adjusted pet.

Pet Bird Behavior and Misbehavior

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:08:00 +0000

If you think men are from Mars and women are from Venus, imagine where birds are from. Not only is a bird owner required to feed and care for his pet, he must also read the bird's mind and try to understand why she behaves or misbehaves. However, there are clues to help you understand what makes birds tick and how to interact with them.

Much as with children, normal behavior in birds can go awry as a result of physical or psychological difficulties, or just plain boredom. For example, if your bird is bored and lonely, she may scream for attention. Your bird thrives on interaction with the 'flock,' and her flock is you! Being a flock is a lot of work, but learning the ropes can be quite rewarding.

Why Birds Misbehave

Because parrots are intelligent, they are easily bored and express their frustration in a variety of ways. In addition to screaming, other indications of boredom include biting, fits of jealousy, feather-picking, overeating, refusing to eat and destroying objects within reach. During out-of-cage time, she may attack the furniture, woodwork, telephone cord, computer keyboards or any other object she can sink her beak into.

Parrots are social creatures, and they need to be included in the activities of the human flock. Bonding with a favorite human is important. You are the master of the flock, and it's up to you to set boundaries and provide opportunities for exercise, play and mental stimulation. Isolation can turn a potentially wonderful pet bird into either a screeching, biting menace or a quiet, obsessed feather picker.

Food for Thought

A varied and nutritious diet can also influence behavior. Include interesting and challenging foods like corn on the cob, unshelled peas and nuts. Many single pet budgies without out-of-cage time for exercising and socializing will spend their days overeating, particularly fattening seeds and treats. The addition of fresh fruits and vegetables will keep those little beaks busy while providing in-cage exercise.

Some of the budgie's larger cousins tend to undereat or feather-pick when bored. Give larger parrots stimulating fresh foods on a birdie kabob, a skewer for serving large pieces of fresh foods, and make sure you provide a wide variety of choices for the food cup. Varying the diet and presentation will stimulate a new interest in eating.

Overstimulation

Just as a child can become too overwhelmed at his birthday party, your parrot may wiggle away from an extended head scratch, back rub or cuddle session. She may either tire of the attention and want to move on to something else or may have to go potty. If you don't react in time to her need to eliminate, you may have droppings on your furniture, carpet, clothing or hand. When she squirms, put her in the cage or on some paper provided for the occasion. You can always try playing again when she's finished!

Despite your efforts, your parrot may eventually become restless and bored with toys and games. She'll want something else to do like explore the out-of-cage environment, eat or take a drink. If you don't pay attention to the mood swings, your cranky bird may move on to biting as a signal that it's time to do something else.

Boredom has a profound effect on your bird's overall well-being. If you've made the effort to keep her from being bored, but the undesired behavior persists, it is important you look in other areas of her life to discover what's causing the problem.

Screaming

Parrots are verbal creatures with voices that vary from pleasant whistles to raucous screeches and screams. Normal screaming occurs when the bird greets the morning, when she is ready to roost at night, when she is frightened or in pain, when hormones surge at breeding time and even when she's just plain happy.

Just as parents must learn with infants, a parrot owner must quickly learn to differentiate normal screaming from a learned behavior. Screaming frequently may indicate hunger, thirst, boredom, loneliness, fear, stress, fatigue, a reaction to the owner's stress or a lack of toys.

Screaming may also be an attempt to copy another bird or a behavior that has been unwittingly rewarded in the past by a novice owner.

Screaming, often combined with other undesirable behaviors such as biting or jealousy, can be prevented once the cause is discovered. To determine the reasons for this ear-shattering behavior, you should examine your bird's environment, her state of physical and psychological well being, the way she is handled, whether her nutritional needs are being met, whether she has been spoiled by too much attention or if a change in the bird's or family's life has drastically disrupted her routine.

If you need help with behavior modification, document when the screaming occurs and report your findings when you take your bird to see an avian vet or bird behaviorist.

Biting

For bird owners, biting is probably the most fearsome bird behavior. A little budgie beak is capable of piercing a hole in a finger, lip or earlobe. The thought of a bite by a conure, Amazon, cockatoo or macaw can certainly cause even the most unflinching owner to shudder.

There are a number of reasons why parrots bite, most involving the owner's behavior. For example, birds will usually bite when they feel threatened by a fearful owner who, at the approach of that formidable beak, jumps back waving arms, hands and fingers.

An otherwise docile bird may bite if disturbed while eating, bathing, playing or sleeping. Biting is a way to let others know she does not want their attention. Other reasons for a biting reaction may include changes in the environment; an invasion of the bird's territory; a lack of trust of the owner, family members or strangers; sudden movements, noises or vibrations; neglect or abuse including hitting and isolating; a lack of guidance; insufficient social interaction; improper nutrition or care; a separation from a human or feathered mate; and hormonal changes during the breeding season.

Young birds going through an explore-the-environment stage use their sensitive beaks to taste and 'feel' humans and objects and to help them keep their balance when they are climbing or stepping up to something. The best way to handle the little 'toddler' is to avoid the beak, but if it does get a hold of you, gently remove your finger. Be forewarned that innocent beak explorations in the form of nibbling may, if encouraged, grow into full-fledged biting as the bird grows older.

In order to prevent biting, you must learn to read the bird's body language and understand her personality and moods. It's important not to engage in negative reinforcement by shouting in pain, screaming or hitting the bird. These actions will make your bird think you are playing a game of 'I Bite/You Dramatize.' Biting can also be discouraged with the use of a calm 'no' command and by providing foot toys, chew toys or a piece of vegetable or fruit. Brief timeout periods in the cage, followed by attention and a reward such as a head scratch or a treat, may also be effective.

Feather Picking or Self-Mutilation

Feather picking and self-mutilation are behaviors exclusive to pet birds. Normally, birds will pull out a couple of feathers here and there when they are preening or molting. However, when birds carry this to an extreme by chewing off breast, wing or tail feathers, the behavior must be stopped before it becomes an obsessive habit. Continued feather plucking will eventually damage the feather follicles and stop the growth of normal, healthy feathers.

Cockatoos, African grays, macaws, conures, Timneh parrots and Amazons are prone to feather picking. They sometimes carry the activity one step further to self-mutilation by chewing on the legs, feet or skin to create rather nasty, bloody messes ripe for infection.

Parrots may develop this behavior for either medical or psychological reasons. These include changes in hormone levels, malnutrition, external or internal parasites, bacterial or fungal infections of the skin or feather follicles, Psittacine beak and feather disease, environmental stress, nervousness, sudden temperature changes, insufficient sleep, lack of bathing time, not enough playtime, too small of a cage, incorrect cage location, isolation, boredom, lack of physical activity and exercise, inappropriate handling, insufficient light, constant fear and constant fear of danger from other pets.

A cure or prevention should begin with an examination by an avian vet. You need to keep a good record of your bird's feather picking and self-mutilation habits as well as the circumstances surrounding each incident. Take note of your bird's overall psychological condition and examine her environment with an eye for what might be improved.

Routines are important for your bird and should be followed as closely as possible. Make sure your bird gets enough sleep and good nutrition. Provide the opportunity for frequent bathing. Give your bird quality time for play and cuddling every day, offering her a variety of chew toys.

Regurgitation

Regurgitation, or bringing up undigested food from the crop (a saclike enlargement of a bird's gullet in which food is stored before digestion) and attempting to feed a favorite human, mirror or toy is a common behavior. This behavior is similar to when a cat brings home a prized dead mouse for its owner. What people perceive as disgusting is the highest honor their bird can bestow. It is the avian way of expressing love and affection to their human mate, just as it is part of normal courtship and breeding behavior between birds.

If your bird regurgitates on you, accept it graciously and don't confuse your amorous 'mate' by expressing your disgust.

Since regurgitation is more likely to occur during breeding season when hormones are raging, it is best not to arouse your parrot by stroking her abdomen, neck or back. Be prepared to receive this precious gift if your bird begins to bob her head, pump her crop and neck muscles, and pin her eyes (narrow and dilate her pupils rather quickly). One good strategy to prevent regurgitation is to distract her with a game or toy.

Regurgitation directed at a toy or mirror, accompanied by rubbing against the object, signals an attempt at mating. Budgies are famous for this since they think their reflection is another bird. Removing the object of your bird's affection can easily prevent this behavior.

Frequent regurgitation could be a sign of illness, such as a crop or upper digestive tract infection. If the behavior persists, you should take your bird in to see an avian vet.

Inexperienced bird owners frequently mistake regurgitation for vomiting, a forceful expulsion of the crop contents. If the cage, the walls and the bird are sticky with vomit, it is likely she has become ill with poisoning from zinc, lead or another toxic substance, has a gastrointestinal disorder or has ingested a foreign object. Take the bird to the avian vet immediately.

Night Frights

Cockatiels, cockatoos and macaws frequently experience night frights, also common among small children, when startled from sleep by a loud noise, vibration or sudden movement, or simply for an unidentifiable reason. Your startled bird may try to take flight, fall off her perch, thrash around the cage or bang against the cage bars, toys and feeders. She may become injured, bleed from pulled feathers, bruise her wing tips, feet, chest or abdomen, go into shock and even sustain internal injuries. When night frights occur, try to calm your bird. Stop any bleeding with styptic powder and call your avian vet for advice.

To circumvent injuries due to night frights, try placing a small night light near the cage or in the aviary so your bird can see where she is during this episode. Or, place an air purifier in the room to drown out potentially frightening noises. You can also provide a small, toy-free sleeping cage to reduce the possibility of injury. To lessen the chance of injury, place a towel on the bottom and lower sides of the cage to cushion the impact of a fall or from thrashing about.

Seizures

Seizures are sometimes mistaken for night frights. In fact, they are symptomatic of more serious, life-threatening problems such as lead or zinc poisoning, head trauma, epilepsy, infection or diet deficiency.

Following a seizure, your bird will look dazed and extremely tired. She will usually sit on the bottom of the cage or on a low perch for a prolonged period of time. You should keep it quiet in a toy-free, covered cage. After treating any bleeding from pulled feathers, take your bird to the avian vet for immediate evaluation.

Nurturing Intervention

As a bird owner, you'll need to become familiar with your parrot's body language, moods, likes, dislikes and personality traits. This will help you to discern behavioral changes and determine the reasons for them, and recognize you may inadvertently be causing or encouraging undesirable behaviors.

Never punish your bird, as she cannot make the connection between the crime and the punishment. For example, screaming at a screaming bird can actually encourage her to scream more, if only for the attention she receives. You should never hit a bird. Hitting or grabbing a bird's beak causes the bird to respond aggressively, fostering fear and distrust.

To help control inappropriate behaviors, let your bird know you will both love and protect her. Once you have gained the bird's trust and affection, she will begin to bond with you. This opens the gate to easy handling, learning commands, verbal interaction in both human and parrot language, and successful behavior modification.

Play Toys

Parrots, like children, need play activities to exercise and strengthen the body, burn energy, stimulate intellectual activity and for fun and entertainment. They must also learn to play by themselves, substituting the wild bird's instincts for flight, flock interaction and foraging for food with caged bird alternatives. Some safe toys readily available in your home include paper cups, cardboard rolls from toilet paper and paper towels (ideal chewing toys for Amazons, macaws and African grays) and uncooked pasta strung on vegetable-tanned leather strips.

Retail bird toys include blocks of wood with unshelled nuts or seed treat sticks inside, wooden blocks with rope and leather knots strung through them, wooden ladders and barbells, natural ropes and branches, zinc and lead-free chains, swings with wooden beads, nylon or acrylic keys or rings, hanging toys with zinc-free and lead-free bells, shapes made out of plain or vegetable-dyed soft woods or pieces of hide and leather strung on rope.

More complex toys include a mix of branches, rope, wooden beads and blocks, hide, leather, parrot cookies, pieces of cholla and manzanita wood and chains. These provide your parrot with decision-making opportunities and hours of mental and physical stimulation as she figures out how to take her toy apart.

To avoid tragedies such as lead or zinc poisoning, cut tongues, beak or foot injuries, strangulation or infection, toys must have lead-free and zinc-free links to attach them to the cage. Check your bird's toys frequently and remove them from her cage if cotton rope is frayed or sagging. If your bird has made holes that could trap a foot, beak or neck, or if the toy is covered with food residue or droppings, discard or clean the toys immediately.

Toys should be selected according to the size of the bird to avoid injuries caused by toy parts that are too large or too small. Avoid toys made with loose-linked chains, jingle bells, and metal parts that are not lead-free or zinc-free, such as bells with lead clappers; weighted toys containing lead, locks, nuts and bolts that may contain zinc or other heavy metals; eye screws that can be swallowed or caught in the mouth; and objects made from brittle plastic that can easily be broken into sharp-edges.

Naturally, if your bird shows no interest in a toy, or clearly dislikes it, take it away.

Play Activities

There are many interactive games people can play with their pet birds. Playing these games encourages trust, strengthens parrot/human communication, helps your bird release energy in a non-destructive way and gives you the opportunity to spend quality time with your little feathered bundle of energy.

Games

The Blinking Game: First establish eye contact, then close your eyes and the bird will copy you. Birds will generally blink whenever their human playmate does and sometimes will do it first to initiate play.

Peek-A-Boo: When a person leaves the room, a bird will normally stretch its neck to see where he went. To play, peek around the door so your bird sees you again. This game is also fun as an out-of-cage activity. Place a towel or light cage cover over your head. Your bird may burrow under it or pull it off entirely. Or place a cover over your bird and reward her with a cuddle or head scratch when she peeks out.

Yoo-Hoo: This game is fun when you are somewhere else in the house. Teach your bird to cry 'yoo-hoo' or 'hi there,' and you whistle or call back. This can also help teach your bird to whistle or speak, rather than scream, when she wants attention.

Drop-and-Pick-Up: Much like toddlers, birds love to repeatedly drop a toy and watch you retrieve it.

Tug-O-War: Take a towel and allow your bird to grab an end and pull while you gently pull on the other end. Allow your pet to win a few times so she doesn't develop aggressive behavior. If you have a shy bird, the odds of winning should be in her favor.

Upside-Down Game: Some birds enjoy hanging upside-down from the top of the cage or from a perch, often while holding an object such as a wooden barbell in its mouth. Your bird may become so expert she can hang upside-down from your finger while twisting her body around. Reward this fine trick with high praise, a good neck and head scratch or a piece of fruit.

Games are most successful if they are designed according to your bird's personality and favorite solo activities. Your bird may graduate from simple games to more complex tricks such as shaking hands, playing basketball, riding toys and playing dead. Parrots can also become great talkers and wonderful dancing and singing partners. Some like jazz or golden oldies music while others prefer Viennese waltzes or a bit of Mozart.

Obviously, it takes time, understanding and patience for birds and humans to learn to play together successfully. Take the time to observe your bird's individual behavior and learn the essentials of training and handling. This effort will result in hours of fun and laughs for both you and your bird.

How Can I Tell If My Bird Is Bored?

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 14:04:00 +0000

Your bird needs to socialize every day. It is easy for her to get bored if she's not getting enough stimulation. Parrots get bored easily because they are very intelligent and social creatures. If your parrot is being ignored, she'll go out of her way to let you know. Be careful, though, because many indications of boredom are also indications of illness.

Signs of boredom include screaming, biting fits of jealousy, feather picking, overeating (especially in budgies who are housed alone), refusing to eat (more common in larger birds) and destructive behavior.

If you think your bird is bored, restructure your schedule so you can spend more time with her. She needs to hear you talk, get out of her cage for exercise and interact with everyone in the family. Give her a good head-scratching, backrub or cuddle session. Introduce new toys or new foods. Teach her a new trick. If she's a talker, teach her a new word or phrase. Most important, don't get in the habit of ignoring her. Whenever you walk by her cage, take a moment to interact and if you're near her doing something, talk to her while you work.

You'll find that keeping your bird happy is rewarding for you both.

Kids, Family, and Birds!

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 02:40:00 +0000

In todays world almost every family with kids has a family pet. Whatever pet it may be, it becomes just like another child or family member. Birds are commonly among these family pets, especially budgies and cockatiels. Any family that mixes birds and kids has a few extra things to consider that they never may have thought of!

A Bird as a Family Pet: the Pros and Cons

Lets start with the bad part of mixing children with birds. Birds, being fragile creatures, obviously can't put up with any rough housing and big hugs such as a dog or cat might. However, if kids are properly taught how to handle feathered friends gently this may never pose a problem. Secondly birds can be stubborn and sometimes not very friendly, and children need to understand this before they're allowed to handle them. In the first months of a bird living in the house, it should be handled and tamed by an older individual before interacting with younger family members.

Now for the good! Birds are hardy and fairly easy to care for, making them great pets for teaching responsibility to kids. Birds are also very social creatures that enjoy company and interaction with their flock (whether it is people or other birds). Interacting with birds can make a great activity that the entire family can participate in.

Bird Breeds That Are Best for a Family

Depending on how much the family plans to interact with their birds, there are a few bird breed common to families with kids. The most common of these would be budgies and cockatiels. Both of these birds are good for first birds and children's pets, as they are hardy and once tamed can become very affectionate. There are a few differences as always between the two breeds, as budgies are sometimes more difficult to tame and cockatiels commonly learn to speak more easily.

Other breeds sometimes owned by families include finches and lovebirds. Finches are nice to look at, fun to watch and easy to care for but aren't the best for families interested in taming their birds. Lovebirds are on the other side of the spectrum: they need an abundance of attention, especially if you decide only to purchase a single bird. Contrary to popular belief lovebirds don't require a mate; however they are very social and need daily attention and interaction with family.

Always keep in mind that larger birds might not be the best for children. They have stronger beaks and claws that can cause a lot more damage, and are best suited as pets for experienced bird persons. When choosing the breed of bird for your family, do a lot of research on the breeds you are interested in by taking a trip to the library and checking out some breed specific books.

Helping Children Care For Birds

However responsible they may be, younger children shouldn't be in full responsibility of a bird. They should be encouraged to do a lot of their own research on the care and handling of a bird, but the parent(s) should also do plenty of research on their own. Always make sure that children know what they're doing when feeding, handling, and caring for their birds and try to supervise this as much as possible. Birds are small creatures that are sensitive, and a mistake made in their care can be a serious problem. However with proper supervision and a bit of luck, a bird could be your family's next perfect family pet!

How To Choose The Right Bird Toys

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sun, 18 Mar 2007 20:01:00 +0000

Birds are intelligent creatures with active minds and they can soon become bored if they had not kept entertained. Birds that are bored and start to exhibit a desirable behavior such as squawking a lot and pulling out all the feathers. One way to keep your bird amused even when you're not around is to make sure that you provide him with a variety of bird toys.

One thing to think about when picking out toys for your bird is whether or not the toys match with your bird size. Toys designed for small bird like a parakeet might not be safe for a large parrot because the powerful beaks of the bigger birds can easily break the toys into pieces which can be dangerous for your pet.

Different sized birds do seem to enjoy different types of toys but one toy that all birds seem to like is the ladder. you want to be careful, however, that you choose the right side letter for your bird obviously smaller birds will meet once with wrongs that are closer together.

Swings and hanging ring seemed to be a bit more popular for the smaller pet birds. That's not to say that larger birds don't enjoy them as some do but in general the smaller birds seem to have a lot more fun. Hang a couple in your pets cage and you soon see him swinging around and hanging from them and just having a heck of a time.

The bigger birds seem to like maize toys and puzzles especially if you can put some of their favorite treats inside the toy. They also like ropes that have leather knots which they can unknot with their beaks. This gives them something to work out of their mind instead of hanging around doing nothing.

Birds have the mentality of small child and just like children birds can really get enjoyment out of a play gym. you can find these In all shapes and sizes, but typically they either sit on a table on top of the birds cage and when he is out of the cage they provide him with a variety of interesting things to play on including ladders seesaws and swings. Not only will your bird entertain himself on these though probably entertain you as well!

When you are shopping for bird toys there are some you might want to think twice about buying. Although most birds love mirrors and love to look at themselves, it does might not serve the purpose you want if they actually think it's another bird they may bond with their own reflection and not care so much about bonding with people.

Always evaluated toy for safety purposes toys that are not well made and can come apart and harm your bird should be avoided. Also toys that have little areas that might pinch your bird's toes or that he can get his head caught and should be avoided. Remember, your bird can get his little beak into just about anything so you want and make sure the toys are tough enough so that he can't break anything off and swallow it which could be disastrous and possibly even fatal.

Your pet bird doesn't necessarily need expensive toys to play with, many birds love things like paper towel tubes and tongue depressors. Just be sure that if you do you keep your bird toy like that that you make sure he doesn't rip apart and start eating it - it might not be a bad idea to stay around and watch them whenever you give him any new toy.

Because your pet bird gets bored easily you want to rotate his toys. Put a few toys in his cage and then hide the others away where he can't see them. After a week or two remove the toys that are in his cage and replace them with the ones you hid away. You can take this opportunity to clean the toys that he has already played with, then hide them away for a week or two. When you bring them out again he'll think he's got new toys to play with!

Birds Need Toys Too!

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:08:00 +0000

Because birds are such intelligent animals, they need mental stimulation. Bird toys and accessories help provide this mental stimulation. They can also help in maintaining the beak and nails at their proper length.

Providing your bird with toys and appropriate chew items will go a long way towards eliminating undesirable behavior such a screaming or nipping. That's because your bird will not have so much pent-up energy that it becomes unmanageable when you want to play with it.

There are a variety of bird toys available; some are better suited for certain types of birds. Select toys that are appropriate for the type and size of your bird. Toys that are too small will break and shatter with large beaks. Toys that are too large will frighten smaller birds.

Plastic toys and metal toys with bells are ideal for the smaller birds, such as Budgerigars (Parakeets) and Cockatiels. Rawhides, wooden toys, metal toys with bells, and rope toys are also suggested.

Plastic toys should never be given to a larger parrot, such as a Macaw. A large parrot can dismantle a plastic toy in seconds and could ingest the pieces. Instead, provide big birds with larger durable rope toys, rawhides, leather, and large wooden or acrylic toys.

All toys should be made with nontoxic materials. Leather should be untreated or vegetable dyed. Wood should be untreated or colored with a nontoxic coloring.

Make sure the toy is sturdy. It should not have small parts that could be broken off and swallowed, or clasps that could pierce the beak, mouth or eyes. Toys with smooth edges are best. Toys should be strung on sisal or cotton rope, or a closed-link chain (where each chain is welded shut). When the end of a piece of rope begins to unravel, clip it off so your bird does not become entangled.

Purchase several toys and frequently rotate them into the cage to keep it interesting for your bird. Wash and disinfect toys when they become soiled and discard them if you notice excessive wear.

Are Plastic Bird Toys Safe For Your Bird?

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sat, 17 Mar 2007 15:50:00 +0000

Is plastic a safe product for my bird? Are there any unnatural chemicals used? I have read about phthalates, is that still used in plastic? Will my bird swallow plastic? Will plastic pass safely through if accidentally swallowed? Will my bird like playing with plastic? Why use plastic toys for my bird? What are some advantages and disadvantages of plastic toys compared to wooden toys?

Powder coated paint is plastic. Bird cages that are powder coated are painted with plastic paint. Birds living in powder coated cages without the presence of metallic or other harmful additives are healthy and have no known adverse effects from the plastic paint.If zinc or other metallic additives are added to the plastic paint to help it adhere to the metal better, the zinc can cause a health problem. But don't throw the baby out with the bath water, as most plastic does not have any metallic additives. The photo shows a powder coated cage with a playtop. My Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo is very secure, healthy and happy with her plastic painted surfaces and toys.

As a general rule, birds don't swallow non-food items like wood or plastic except by accident. Plastic requires 400 degrees of heat to break down. Due to this high-heat requirement, plastic will not melt or be compromised in your birds system. Anything small enough to swallow should pass right through their system and come out as "confetti bird poop."
Plastic was first widely used on toys in my area of Texas in the early 1990s. Alphabet letters, airplanes, dominoes, dice, animal figures, and boats were the first plastic items many of us used on bird toys. These plastic toys continue to be great favorites of many parrots.

In 1998, the plastics industry began changing its softener from phthalates to natural citrus softeners. Citrate Esters is the name usually associated with the softening of plastic this natural way. Today's plastic is a clean product that can be completely disinfected after purchase. I clean bought toys with 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water, rinse well and dry outside in the sunlight to kill any germs the cleaner missed.

My observation is that birds who are afraid of toys are attracted to acrylic toys. Acrylic is a plastic. If the bird can see through a toy the timid bird feels better about the toy. Acrylics like pacifiers, see-through beads and buttons, and any sturdy acrylic part delight some birds that have never played with toys before. The Umbrella Cockatoo in the photo sleeps snuggled to her translucent toys. (See Picture of snuggled Cockatoo)

Many birds adore plastic based toys and attack them with enthusiasm. People often say that plastic toys are the only ones their birds will play with. Wooden toys are used for beak conditioning, and the plastic ones are courted, danced for, and completely enjoyed by parrots. (See Picture of my Umbrella dancing with her plastic toy.)

I am privileged to share my heart with a male Moluccan named Cowboy Dallas. His 2 wooden toys have been hanging in his cage since Christmas morning, over 6 months. He plays with plastic toys, using his wooden toys for leveling off his beak growth. He is a happy, strong, handsome boy and his plastic toys are a big part of his joyful and exuberant personality. (See picture of Dallas)Plastic's affordability to manufacture, friendliness to the environment, and cost-effective shipping costs due to lighter-than-wood weight makes it a product our parrot's can enjoy for hours and hours when they can't be out of the cage playing. Wood can not be as completely disinfected as plastic due to its porous nature.

Some food dishes are plastic and no ill effects have been reported. To relieve cage boredom, provide more toys at affordable pricing, and just for the fun of it, see if your parrot would enjoy the plastic lid from a can or a soda straw or coffee stir. To see if your bird likes plastic toys, you can try toys with wood and plastic parts like the toy pictured with Skeeter the Eclectus. (See Picture of Skeeter)

Match the bird's size and strength to plastic toys. A powerful Moluccan can play safely with tough plastics and pliable plastics. A smaller parrot can play with a wider variety of plastics safely. Plastics have proven to be a safe part of today's avian products. For more than 10 years we have housed our parrots in plastic coated cages and offered them toys of plastic. Today's citrus-softened plastics have given parrot keepers new and exciting plastic products to enrich our parrots lives.

Pet Bird Body Language

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Sat, 17 Mar 2007 12:22:00 +0000

Have you ever taken the time to watch your birds really closely and notice the different behaviours they have that can indicate an enormous amount of information about each bird ? Just as humans have a definite body language so to do our birds. In this article I will go through some that I have noticed and I would love to hear from other members who may have made observations of their own while observing their birds. Even without inspecting the nestbox it is possible to tell by the behaviour of a breeding pair when their chicks are starting to hatch. Over the 21 days your birds will most likely have been taking regular shifts of looking after the eggs with the male sitting all day and the hen sitting all night. The changeovers are usually fairly predictable the hen emerging around 6 or 7 am and the cock taking over and changing back around 5 or 6pm. Things are quite calm and orderly. Then around 21 days after the first egg was laid the sitting routine goes right out of the window. Changeovers are much more frequent as each parent take a turn of feeding up and returning to the nestbox to feed the chicks. Things take on a much more frenetic pace and woe betide you if your late taking them their soft food and greens in the morning. You won't be met with the calm happy twitters of your grateful birds, more like an exasperated looking parent pacing the perch or hanging off the front wire of the aviary indicating in no uncertain terms that you better hurry up as they have babies waiting for breakfast. If you don't pick up on these sort of signals you may not be as in tune with you birds as you could be. From the moment a baby bird hatches its very existence depends on its ability to convey to its parent that it is hungry and needs food. This carries on for as long as the chick is dependent on the parent bird for food and sometimes they will try it on even after it is weaned and usually the parent bird will respond with the bird equivalent to a clip on the ear. The one thing I love watching the most is when a chick first emerges from the nestbox. After finally working up the courage to follow it's parent who has been patiently flying backwards and forwards from the nestbox to the front of the aviary to encourage their offspring to follow, for all the world as if it is saying come on watch me, you can do it. Then once that first giant step is taken the very next thing the parent starts to teach the chick is where the food is . The parent will fly from beside the chick to where the food supply is backwards and forwards until the chick follows and starts the long process of learning to eat by itself. Then once all the chicks are fledged and all demanding food from the parents at the same time you can soon see who has the dominant personality amongst the group or who is the more quiet one who usually is last in line for a feed. Other examples of reading a bird's body language are when your birds go into a sudden panic and fly around madly then just as quickly go completely still, not making a sound. In my part of the woods this usually heralds the arrival of a bird of prey such as a hawk. I don't need to see the bird to know that it's there. One thing that fascinates me is that usually just before the arrival of such a bird you will often see some wild rainbow lorikeets screaming through the sky, yelling their heads off, as if in warning to other birds who don't have the lorikeets speed to escape, to take cover as danger is approaching. We have a lot of spotted turtle doves around here, unfortunately for them, much sought after by hawks for their lunch. Their plan of action when a hawk arrives on the scene is to keep perfectly still so as not to attract attention to themselves. Usually after a short while one will panic and try to escape and is usually snapped up by the waiting hawk. Back to watching your own birds, obviously there are the signs to look for if you suspect a bird is unwell. We all know that birds will try to hide the fact that they are sick for as long as possible, but if you are really in tune with your birds you should be able to pick up very slight changes in their personality and behaviour that may indicate they have a problem before it gets too serious. Things like sleeping a bit more than usual, changes in eating habits, irritability, being a bit dominated by the other birds more than would normally happen could all mean something is not quite right. You can usually tell when a hen is about to start laying . She will get a bit of a humpy look to her stance and her dropping will become large and runny. She should however still be eating well and generally be in good health. This is the time to make extra sure you hen has a fresh and plentiful supply of calcium to replace what she uses up laying her eggs. If a bird is egg bound ( unable to pass the egg) she may go down to the floor of the aviary and appear in some distress. The first thing to do if this occurs is to keep the bird warm and administer a liquid calcium supplement such as Calcium Sandoz by mouth. If you are unsure of what to do or the bird doesn't seem to be responding contact your avian vet immediately. Sexing your birds can be made easier by some careful observation of their behaviour. Young males will start to show tell tale signs of the first throaty whistles at quite a young age, but it is easy to miss if you aren't watching. It is best to observe them from a distance and don't stare at them or they will stop doing it. If you can't tell which one is making the noise look at their tails for a tell tale slight movement in time with the whistle. Once you have an idea a particular bird might be a male you can either shift him to a different aviary and continue to observe the rest of his siblings or make a note of his ring number for future reference. Compatibility is very a important factor in breeding. If you have the opportunity to let your birds select their own partners you will see they have very definite ideas about who they want to be paired with. If you have an aviary with equal numbers of young un-bonded cocks and hens it is quite often the case that one of the hens has the attention of all the males or conversely one of the cock birds has all the young females trailing after him. I don't know what that exactly says about those more popular birds body language to the other birds but I think I'll let you figure it out for yourselves!!

Flock Behavior: How It Affects Our Parrots

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 02:16:00 +0000

An often-made mistake by behavior experts and other experienced bird-keepers is to consider all parrots’ behavior as the same, having the same roots and causes. By that thinking, all species react the same to any stimuli. However, we know this is not true. For instance, African Grey parrots have very different social patterns and behaviors than Amazons. Even among the same genus, different species can have very different social needs and behaviors.

THE INCORRECT COMPARISON TO DOGS AND CATS

Sometimes it’s all too easy to compare parrots as we do our dogs and cats. Domestic dogs are different breeds within the same canine species. Likewise, domestic cats are merely different breeds within the species feline. However, parrots comprise many different species within the hook bill or psitticine genus. Therefore, there’s a big difference between the behavior of individual parrot species and that of dog or cat breeds. Even the behavior within a flock of wild parrots varies greatly between the species. According to ornithologists, there are two kinds of flocks in the psitticine world---- multi-species and single-species flocks.

MULTI-SPECIES AND SINGLE-SPECIES FLOCKS

A group of birds are described as a flock when they: 1) fly at the same speed and 2) forage together at the same feeding grounds. This includes flocks where there are more than one species......called multi-species flocks. Multi-species flocks are often found in South America, where a flock of parrots may include several Macaw species, Amazons, Conures and more. They also are seen in Australia, where Greater Sulfur-crested, Galahs (Rose-breasted) and Corellas are often seen flying and eating together.

SINGLE-SPECIES flocks are a group of the same species only, such as African Grey Parrots. They allow no other species to co-mingle with their flock.

Why do we care about who and what makes up a flock of wild parrots? We care because the social structure and behavior of those wild parrots is very dependent upon the type of flock to which the parrots belong. For survival purposes that social structure is hard-wired (instinctive) behavior within parrot genes. That same instinctive behavior establishes the patterns we see with our hand-fed companion parrot behaviors.

For instance, many African Grey Parrots do not tolerate new additions to the parrot family, especially when they are the first bird. As first bird it appears that they instinctively establish themselves and their human flock as if it were a single-species African Grey flock, where a bird of another species would not be welcomed. Try bringing an Amazon home to a now territorial Grey Parrot. Even other African species, such as Poicephalus or Lovebirds, are enough to bring a dark cloud over the African Grey’s house. However, those of you with different Macaw and Amazon species in the same house often see a very different perspective----- a happy, chattering multi-species flock, just like in the wild. Multi-species flock birds are definitely more accepting of other species than are single-species flock birds.

MULTI-SPECIES FLOCKS
Why are there multi-species flocks? Why doesn’t every individual species have its own flock, as do the African parrots?

In South America, there are many species confined to a relatively small area. Competition for nest holes and foraging grounds is great. Apparently, parrots have found the best way to locate a nest hole or feeding ground is by FOLLOWING THE CROWD. Therefore, we see a variety of species within a single flock of New World parrots.

Another consideration for South American parrots is that the scarcity of nest holes limits the numbers produced of any one species. This means there are no huge flocks of Amazons and Macaws that might band together for protection against predators. Instead, they must rely on the numbers brought about through mingling several different species together.

We all know how noisy some South American parrots can be. I’ve always felt this was partly due to the different species inhabiting a flock. If you were a Conure living among Amazons and Macaws, you just might develop a loud voice to be heard by your mate above the dim of the other species’ calls.

Parrots vocalize for a reason. They sound off to call a mate with a contact call. They send alarm calls of impending danger. They call their mates to food sources. Do they care about other species within a multi-species flock? Probably not, since their own species is what they are genetically programmed to preserve. Therefore, they must be loud to be heard. Plus, finding your mate in a large flock of several different and brightly colored species is no mean feat. We, as the human caregivers, should realize that vocalization is a critical factor with certain species and treat it with due respect. Is that Conure really screaming, or is he raising his voice in a natural manner to bring you over to him and away from the strange human with whom you were having a discussion?

African Greys, on the other hand, have no need to be heard above other species. They all speak the same flock dialect. For that reason, Greys often are considered quieter parrots than some of those species from multi-species flocks. Pionus are another example of single-species flock birds that are known as QUIET parrots. Unlike some of their other South American cousins, Pionus are single-species flock birds.

STABLE PERSONALITIES

Individual species personalities within multi-species flocks tend to be more stable than many of the single-species flock parrots. For instance, how many people have heard of a phobic Amazon? Feather mutilation among Conures and Macaws for reasons other than physical causes is rare, while much more often seen as behavior-based with African Grey Parrots, several Poicephalus species and those Cockatoo species that flock by themselves. My own belief regarding the stability of many domesticated South American parrots is that they naturally raise their young in the wild to become individual flock members at a younger age than do many of the single-species flock birds. This may be a necessity due to the lack of large numbers of their own species within a flock, or that multi-species flock dynamics are not suitable for extended parent or family group instruction.

For instance, a Yellow-headed Amazon might be hard-wired (instinctive behavior) to leave its parents and join the flock sooner than would an African Grey juvenile. In our domestic situations, where parrot species are often handled as if they were all the same, breeders often wean Amazons and African Greys on the same schedule.....a big mistake.

Researchers have recorded that Greys appear to stay with their FAMILY GROUP within the flock much longer than do some multi-species flock birds, such as Amazon parrots. This later independence factor may account for the extreme sensitivity and lack of confidence we often see in domestically bred African Grey Parrots. Phobic behavior, while seldom a problem with Amazons, is all too prevalent in African Greys.

SINGLE-SPECIES FLOCKS
African Greys are a good example of single-species flock birds. There are only Greys within their flock. Observations made in the mid-1990's in Africa by Dr. Irene Pepperberg’s student, Diana May, showed Grey Parrots in many separate groups of five or six birds within flocks consisting of hundreds of Greys. This observation presents a possibility that African Greys may have a longer maturation period, where juveniles stay in FAMILY GROUPS for as long as several years, before going into the flock to find a mate.

Should that be the case, it would explain why Grey Parrots often change their bond from the human who took care of them as juveniles to someone else in the family when the bird is between two and three years old. In order to keep the species gene pool strong and prevent inbreeding, a wild parrot would have to reject its family group and find a mate elsewhere within the flock; therefore, they reject the initial primary caregiver (who represents a ‘parent’) and pair-bond with someone else in the family (flock).

Like the single-species African Grey Parrot with its family group structure, the Rose-breasted Cockatoo has a crèche system of raising and socializing its young. As the chicks fledge, they go to what some refer to as a ‘nursery tree.’ There they receive associated learning (socialization) from older Galahs, until they are educated enough and old enough to become independent flock members.

According to Sam Foster, Galahs are now found nearly throughout Australia, and they are one of the few species that have adapted successfully to changes in their natural habitats due to man’s intervention. Therefore, they may or may not have always been multi-flock birds. If this is not the case, they have joined and have been accepted by, other species, such as the Great Sulphur and Corella, in order to survive in certain areas.

The above are two examples of ‘continuing education’ that we do not see and isn’t practical within a multi-species flock, such as the South American parrots. These same two examples are also two of our more troubled species, as far as insecurity behavior problems, such as phobias and feather mutilation. From a behavior viewpoint, we may not be providing the necessary associative learning with our hand-raised Greys and Galahs that wild birds receive in their specialized environments.

PREDATORS
Both African Greys and Galahs are part-time ground feeders, something that, due to dangers from ground predators, requires a strong flock bond. It also requires that all of the birds look alike, so that an overhead predator (hawk) doesn’t see individual birds— just a continuous gray mass. Flying predators don’t like to take a victim from a flock where the predator cannot distinguish individual birds. If it did it would ruin the risk of breaking its own wing should it hit an object other than its individual prey. Single-species flocks can afford to feed on the ground because they all are the same color and blend together easily.

ACCEPTANCE OF OTHER SPECIES---- ONE PERSON BIRDS
I believe that company is a great preventative factor for behavior problems. In the case of multi-species flock birds, adding another bird or two to the room seems to keep everyone happy when the human flock is not present. However, this is not the case with a single African Grey parrot in a household. Bring another bird into that house and it’s as if the cloud of doom descended over the house. Other species are usually not allowed within this single-species flock animal’s domain. It may take weeks or months before the Grey is reasonably comfortable with the new bird and that bird’s cage had better be well out of the Grey’s perceived territory. However, put a mirror in a Grey’s cage and it will be happy for hours, while the human flock-member is at work. A mirror is, to the Grey, like having another of their own species with them......one without an attitude.

You might ask, why then do single-species flock birds accept we humans as ‘flock members?’ When we hand-raise them and they associate food from our hands to their beaks, we become part of the flock. Wild Grey Parrots have, in the past when they were imported, the ability to become our close friends simply because their parents taught them who are birds and who are not. I have also seen African Greys that were hand-reared with Cockatoos and did accept the white birds as flock members, even to the point where the Greys over-preened their own feathers, attempting to imitate the vigorous grooming techniques of the Cockatoos.

TERRITORIALISM
I believe you see far more territorial aggression from single-species flock birds than from multi-species flock birds, with the exception of mating season when competition for nest holes makes some species extremely aggressive. Again, this may be because other species are instinctively not allowed within a flock of African Greys, for instance. Within our homes, where you might have an Amazon climbing over Macaw’s cage with no hostility from either side, many Greys will not allow another species to set foot on their cages. Often just separating the cages by placing them at opposite corners of a room gives the Grey enough breathing room that he accepts the presence of the other parrot in the room.

If we are to learn to live compatibly with our feathered friends, we are going to have to learn more about them. They are not going to adjust their behavior to what they perceive in us. It doesn’t work that way. We are the ones who have raised them in an unnatural manner and keep them in an unnatural them in an unnatural environment. Our responsibility is to make their social lives as close to natural for each species as possible. When we do not do that the result is a confused, unhappy bird with what we call behavior problems.

Feather Plucking

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 02:11:00 +0000

Feather plucking by caged birds has been almost totally enigmatic through these past few decades. Some of what I opine to be causes are listed below:

BEHAVIORAL: This is found mainly in Cockatoos and Congo African Greys. Timneh Greys are not as susceptible to the neurotic plucking that their close relatives tend to do when upset emotionally. Cockatoos pluck out of frustration from lack of attention, being kept covered or away from stimuli because of their loud calls, and/or other physical factors. Once a Cockatoo begins to pluck itself, the whole regime can turn into a nasty mutilation scene. It becomes a vicious circle of irritation, itchiness, more plucking and then mutilation. Unless you can put up with the noise of these magnificent birds, and afford to give it the attention it deserves, then an affectionate loving Cockatoo is not for you. The larger Greys, being very intelligent and sensitive birds, have a tendency to pluck when anything in their environment changes - maybe even a new visitor.

PHYSIOLOGICAL: Upon medical exam, some birds have been diagnosed with parasites or bacterial infections. Some bacterial infections may be secondary to the cause of plucking and as a result of the irritation.

DIETARY: Chemical additives in some artificial pelleted diets may well be a cause of plucking in birds that become sensitive to the chemical buildup. Lack of foods rich in amino acids and phytonutrients (fresh produce) can be a cause of plucking. I believe in a varied diet with a good vitamin, mineral, amino acid supplement to keep the bird's system from becoming immuno compromised. Dietary requirements are also species specific in many cases. It's best to do some research on the type of bird(s) that you own before making dietary changes or decisions.

HOUSING: A happy healthy bird is one that can ideally fly or at least have a cage large enough to be able to hop around and stretch and flap its wings. Extra care must be taken with a bird that has flight, though, to keep it from escaping and to keep it from getting into trouble. Birds need to chew and need stimuli, so a few safe bird toys in its cage will help it to escape the boredom of being confined. I've found that fresh clean sliced or chunked pine 2x4s are the bird's favorites. My breeders chew them vigorously to use as nesting material while the others love them as hand held chew toys.

ENVIRONMENTAL: Last, but not least is the environmental factor. New carpeting, upholstered or laminated furniture, new sheet rock, and neurotoxic odors from household sprays can be deadly to birds. The first four items outgas the highly carcinogenic formaldehyde for many years. Weather permitting, birds should have a source of fresh air and/or air conditioning. A good HEPA filter air cleaner will do the best job in keeping stale air fresh and bird dust down. Ozone air cleaners are a no-no because of the after effects that are lung irritants. Birds have been known to succumb to fumes from running trucks or cars close to their room. Most everyone is aware of the danger of overheated Teflon™ or Silverstone™ coated pans, utensils, and new appliances.

MOLD: This should be covered under environmental, but I feel it important enough to be given its own heading. If you can see mold anywhere in your home or aviary, you have a problem that could cause the itchiness in plucking birds. If you have had water seepage or leaks that were fixed or have stopped, you can still have a problem with hidden mold that emits mycotoxins. Mycotoxins cannot be seen or measured, but they can be physically devastating to both birds and humans. Sheet rock is fodder for mold. Bleach does NOT kill mold. It masks it and then leaves a residue that feeds the spores later on. White vinegar is the best cleaning agent that I know of to kill mold. Stachybotrys mold can only be killed at temperatures above 500 degrees! This is one of the most toxic types of mold and can cause CNS (central nervous system) problems, cancer, and many other ailments. Aspergillus (very common) can cause bad respiratory problems that are difficult to cure. There are a few other lesser toxic molds and numerous non-toxic types. I believe that these mycotoxins are the main offender in birds that pluck.

Bird Cage Territoriality

noreply@blogger.com (Polly Blogger) — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 02:08:00 +0000

Guarding One's Turf

This behavior is called cage territoriality or cage dominance, and like many (most?) of the behaviors we see in captive parrots, it has a foundation in instinct. In the wild, a parrot must protect its territory from invasion not only by predators but also other parrots. Dr. Charles Munn, in his National Geographic article on macaws in the Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged Rainbows", Jan. 94), comments that "a contributing factor in the macaws' low reproduction rate [in the wild] is an acute housing shortage." An unprotected nest is often subject to a hostile takeover by another pair of parrots eager to start a family. So guarding one's territory is necessary to successfully raise a family and therefore fulfill the Prime Directive of propagating one's own species. John's parrot didn't exhibit this behavior before, because it was just a baby.

In working with clients, I like to use as an example the behavior of a pair of mockingbirds who made it on the news several times a couple of years ago. (It must have been a slow news week.) These birds had built a nest in a parking garage and they were dive bombing any humans who dared try to retrieve their cars. After describing the situation, I then point out just how small a mockingbird actually is [about 10" from beak to tail] compared to the size of a human. To say the least, this is a formidable instinctive drive!

Aberrant Behavior

In captivity we often see territorial behaviors that have become excessive, with the bird driving off not just strangers but other members of the household (other flock members) and even the person with whom the parrot is most bonded -- the equivalent of the bird driving its own mate away from the nest. Obviously, this is a serious behavior problem, which will seriously threaten the animal’s pet potential if allowed to go unchecked. It is also extremely common.

Some people feel that a pet parrot should be allowed this territorial behavior -- that its cage is its very own special place and it should be allowed to do as it pleases within that area. I emphatically do not agree.

Just as a human child should be allowed privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot should be allowed to have its moods -- and sometimes it will simply not be in the mood to interact with its human – it is playing happily by itself, it for example, or pondering a particularly tough concept of astral physics. An experienced parrot owner knows when their bird is not in the mood by simply watching its body language, and he/ she respects the bird's privacy and does not approach during these times.

However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't feel it is acceptable for a small child to be allowed to ban parents from his/her room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should be allowed to refuse their human flock entry into its "room" -- which is what John's parrot is doing.

If a person has a pair of breeding birds, that is a different story -- I would liken that to having a grown child visiting his parents with his wife -- at which point the rules change. In that case, I think the young adult's room should be private with the parents entering by invitation only.

Establishing Nurturing Dominance

A pet parrot that is excessively territorial is a bird who has been allowed to believe it outranks the humans in its flock, and is therefore, ordering these humans around. To get this little tyrant under control, the humans must establish a relationship of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la Sally Blanchard) by teaching the bird the commands of "up" and "down" to put controls on the bird's behavior. This simple and incredibly effective training technique was explained in detail in a separate article ("Nurturing Dominance: What It Is and How To Establish It").

As I explained in that article, the bird is removed from its cage and control is taught in daily training sessions that take place on a neutral perch in a neutral territory -- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair) and room (i.e. a guest room or bath) that the bird does not consider to be its own turf. (Trying to establish controls over a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or even within sight of its cage is an exercise in futility and a great way to get bitten.)

Once the bird is responding to the human's order by stepping onto his/her hand every time the person says Up and off the hand onto the perch every time with a Down, then the human can start moving the training perch out of the neutral area and into the area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few inches at a time -- and then work again on the commands, making sure the bird follows them to the letter. To maintain consistency from then on, the person will ALWAYS use these commands whenever and wherever he/she is handling the bird.

Back on the Bird's Turf.....

Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training sessions often become more difficult, but the person should not lose heart.

With patience and consistency (and a little time), the bird will again respond to the commands that it followed beautifully when out of sight of its territory. Under NO circumstance should the human lose his/her temper (tempting though it may be at times), since that usually provides the drama that parrots love -- few things tickle them more than making their pet person mad enough to yell. After all, what a wonderful game! (I discussed the Drama Reward in another article.)

When the teacher and the pupil have at last worked their way back to the cage, the human should put the bird onto his perch in the cage with the Down command, then immediately pick him up again with the Up command. Doing this several times in a row will teach the bird that these commands work just as well inside the cage as out. This process should also be repeated on the cage top, as well as on and around any other place where the parrot hangs out.

New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage

From that point on, whenever the bird wants to be let out of its cage, it must step onto the person's hand when the human says Up. If it refuses, then it is not allowed out of the cage until it changes its mind and follows the command. Under no circumstance should the person simply open the cage door and walk away -- this will convince the parrot it is again in control of its life and the humans in its flock.

Once the bird has come out of the cage with the proper commands, if the human wishes, the parrot can be placed on top with the Down so it can go in and out at will. At the end of the day, the bird should be returned to his cage with a Down.

Altitude vs. Attitude

Always keep in mind that height is correlated directly with dominance in the mind of the companion parrot -- so a bird above eye level generally considers itself higher on the pecking order. This height significance must be considered when choosing the training perch, as well as with perch placement in a parrot’s cage. Aggressive birds should not be allowed to perch higher than the person’s chest level. The top of the bird's cage may not be a good place for the parrot to play if it starts getting delusions of superiority. A separate play area set on a low table usually solves this problem.

Even after the parrot is behaving itself around the cage (and everywhere else), the human should keep up training sessions every week or so, just to remind the bird that the rules are still in force. It is also critical that any other humans handling the bird should use the same commands in exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS using the Up to get the bird on his/her hand, and off the hand with a Down. Otherwise, the bird will become confused -- just as a human child does when two parents enforce different rules.

Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild, there appears to be a constant push-pull going on within the flock, with challenges happening constantly. So the human should not be surprised when a previously well behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command -- it is just checking to see if the human is really in control. By insisting the command be followed, the human simply reaffirms that.

So by following these easy training techniques and handling their parrot in a firm, loving and consistent manner, John and his wife can get control of their headstrong bundle of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving relationship they used to enjoy.