Acclimating New Birds

Now that my services have expanded into the "matchmaking" business, It dawned on me that we need to talk about the transition of a bird moving to a new home, whether a hand fed baby just adopted to a new home or an older bird going to a second home. This is a stressful time for any bird, but you can help lessen the strife and make the move easier for both your new bird and the rest of the family.

Good planning ahead of time is essential. A pet parrot should NEVER be an impulse buy. Adopting a companion parrot is just that - ADOPTING a new family member - they're not used cars to be traded in when you get bored! They are living, feeling, sensitive beings who should always be considered PERMANENT additions to the family. I'll never forget the first local bird expo I went to after moving to the Northwest. It was winter - cold and rainy, and I saw a person after person exiting the expo, each with a tiny baby African Grey tucked under their coats. There was a vendor inside with lots of cute baby Grays and a cheap price - apparently, many folks couldn't resist. Since no one seemed to have brought a carrier, it didn't seem to me that these were "planned" purchases, but rather spur of the moment purchases. I wonder how many went home to a nice cage, all set up with new toys and the proper diet? Not many, I'll bet. It's a deadly combo - cute, cheap, and baby! I'll bet not too many folks had done their homework either, studying up on African Greys and bird care in general.

The other common scenario is the "petshop rescue" - the pitiful bird at some pet store that knows nothing about birds - there he is, in a tiny cage, eating sunflower seeds, no toys, tucked in between the hamsters and the snakes, while the resident shop cat climbs freely through the store. So, on a whim, you take him home.

So, whether it's the irresistible baby, the sad ill cared for rescue, or an actual well thought out carefully chosen new addition - there he is, coming in your front door, hoping to spend the rest of his life with you, his ever loving devoted family!! So how do we transition from scared outsider to contented feathered child?

First, be prepared. Have the cage, toys, and food all set up prior to his arrival so he can slide right in and not have to stand by while everyone scrambles around, frantically searching for bird stuff. Normally, we advise putting a bird's cage in the busiest part of the house, where he can be the center of attention. But new birds need some space, quiet and privacy during the settling in process, so find him a comfortable safe corner where he can observe, but at a distance. Of course, he should have made a trip to the vet first thing and quarantining him for at least one month away from any other birds is always recommended. So this may not be his permanent location, but rather serve as a "pit-stop" in the beginning. You may want to partially cover his cage, draping a towel over the back and one side to help him feel safe. If possible, have some of his previous diet to mix in with the new (wonderful) cuisine you'll be serving.

Find out as much as possible about, not only his diet, but preference in toys, play time, bed time, and daily routine. Keeping some consistency helps for a smoother transitional time. Radical changes don't agree with many parrots, so go slow. Introduce him to every family member, but avoid anyone doing too much "hands on" stuff in the beginning. Rather, spend time just sitting by him, talking to him and offering some treats by hand. Don't force him or expect instant love. Work on building trust with "step-ups". Play "The Towel Game" to have interactive fun, as well as aiding future needs for handling by a vet or groomer.

Put your new guy on a regular schedule. Feed him lots of fresh veggies and nice warm cooked grains and legumes. Warm food is "comfort food" and helps strengthen the bond when fed by hand. Share some family dinner with him, preferably on a stand by the dining table. Watch TV together and preen his head feathers for him while you hang out on the couch. Include him in lots of family activities to help him feel a part of the flock. If everyone is gone to work or school during the day, leave a radio or TV on and make sure he's got plenty of interesting toys that provide both chewing exercise and mental stimulation. Talk to him before leaving, tell him he's okay and reassure him that you'll be back. When you do return give him a warm hello and a big hug. If you do have other birds, try to maintain the flock order. It won't help him relax if the other birds are resentful of all the attention the new guy gets. Always address your primary bird first - first one out, first one kissed, first one fed, etc. Don't allow the birds to get together until you're sure everyone gets along. First time together, it's helpful if it's on a neutral new stand that no one is territorial about. If you expect the two to ultimately share a cage, remember that will take time and patience - you don't want the new guy intimidated by an overbearing dominant "resident" who thinks he runs the place.

An important point to remember - don't make the mistake of totally doting on the bird at first, then ignoring him after the novelty wears off. He'll definitely need extra attention in the beginning, but try to maintain a balance from the start, to avoid rebound problems down the road. So be prepared, go slow, build trust, and have fun getting to know each other. This is the beginning of a beautiful lifelong friendship.

by Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Counselor
Phone: (503) 771-BIRD

Foot Loose And Fancy Free

Providing the best furniture for the inside of your parrot's home is paramount to good health. Next to perching on his favorite person, your bird will spend the rest of his/her time on perches. There are a wide variety of textures and styles to choose from including natural woods, plastic, acrylic, dowel stock, and cement. Finding the right combination for your parrot's cage is extremely important in order to prevent foot abnormalities from developing.

Size is a critical factor when choosing a perch. Your bird should be able to rest comfortably on his perch. Your birds feet should not wrap completely around the perch but rest on the top half as shown in the accompanying photo. Perches that vary in diameter will give your bird a choice as to the most comfortable spot to roost. Several perches of different sizes also exercise the feet while improving strength and dexterity. Improperly sized perches can cause medical conditions, such as arthritis and atrophy, to develop.

Natural branches make the best perches. They not only give the birds a comfortable perch, but provide a source for chewing. Parrots enjoy removing the bark and chewing the branches so they may need to be replaced often. Some of the safe woods that can be used to make perches are Apple, Ash, Beech, Birch, Cactus Wood, Cottonwood, Crabapple, Dogwood, Elm, Fir, Mulberry, Manzanita, Pine, Popular, and Willow.

Only use branches from trees that have not been sprayed with insecticides or pesticides. Clean branches using a 10% bleach to water solution. Leave bleach on for 10 minutes then, rinse well. Seasoned branches are safer but may be inhabited by insects. To kill insects: bake branches for 30 minutes in a 350 degree oven. For large branches: seal the branches is an air tight plastic bag for 30 days to kill any bugs.

Plastic perches are easier to clean than wood perches but they do not always offer the varying textures and diameters that natural perches do. Some plastic and acrylic perches are slippery, which make grasping difficult. Sanding these perches with a coarse piece of sandpaper will give the perch more texture making gripping easier. There are a few companies that are now offering textured PVC perches that vary in diameter.

Cement perches help keep nails rounded. They come in a variety of sizes and colors. They are a little pricey but they can save money by preventing your clothes from getting those little holes in them. Placing one cement perch near a food or water dish ensures that your bird will use the cement perch. Your bird will still need his/her nails trimmed, but cement perches can reduce the frequency of the need for nail trimmings. Cleaning cement perches does take some elbow grease. And placing them near food dishes does mean your bird will also use the perch to wipe his beak on, causing them to become dirty quickly. To be effective your bird's foot must reach 3/4 of the way around the perch. Be sure to have non-cement perches in the cage as well. Birds who only have access to cement perches may develop foot problems such as arthritis.

Dowel stock is often used for perches. It is inexpensive and easy to clean. On the down side, they do not exercise the feet because of their uniform shape. Birds who only have dowel rod for perches may develop medical problems with their feet such as loss of grasping strength, arthritis, and atrophy. Use dowel stock perches in conjunction with other types of perches and vary their diameters.

Sandpaper perch covers are not recommended. They are too rough and can cause wear on pads and open sores on the bottom of your bird's feet.

Several perches should be placed in each cage at different heights. Place a natural branch at the highest level in the cage for the roosting perch. Make sure the roosting perch varies in diameter so that your bird can pick the most comfortable spot to sleep. Using at least one hardwood perch in the cage will reduce the frequency of replacing perches. Do not overcrowd the cage with perches or toys. Leave enough room in the cage for exercise and wing stretching.

Clean and disinfect perches as needed. Do not allow your birds to perch and play on dirty perches. Parrots often use their perches to wipe their beaks on, so the perch nearest the food dishes should be a perch that is easily cleaned and disinfected. Placement of the perches can make a difference on how often they need to be cleaned. Try to install the perches so that they do not cross under or over another perch. If your bird is pooping on a lower perch then move a perch a few inches in either direction to prevent it from becoming soiled. Make sure that perches are completely dry before you return them to the cage. It is best to have 2 sets of perches so that you can always have a clean dry perch ready to replace a dirty one.

Stability is another important factor to consider when installing perches. Your parrot needs to feel secure and a perch that wobbles, or is slippery, may contribute to slip and fall accidents. Secure perches to cage bars with lag studs, washers, and wingnuts. Or cut perches 2 inches longer than the cage measurements and cut slits on the both ends to fit over the cage bar. Sand perches or router grooves in them to add texture to make grasping easier.

In conclusion, outfit your birds cage with several perches that vary in texture and diameter. Choose your birds perches carefully, considering all aspects of your birds behavior, size, and health and your bird will benefit from long term health and happiness.