Bird Cage Territoriality

Guarding One's Turf

This behavior is called cage territoriality or cage dominance, and like many (most?) of the behaviors we see in captive parrots, it has a foundation in instinct. In the wild, a parrot must protect its territory from invasion not only by predators but also other parrots. Dr. Charles Munn, in his National Geographic article on macaws in the Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged Rainbows", Jan. 94), comments that "a contributing factor in the macaws' low reproduction rate [in the wild] is an acute housing shortage." An unprotected nest is often subject to a hostile takeover by another pair of parrots eager to start a family. So guarding one's territory is necessary to successfully raise a family and therefore fulfill the Prime Directive of propagating one's own species. John's parrot didn't exhibit this behavior before, because it was just a baby.

In working with clients, I like to use as an example the behavior of a pair of mockingbirds who made it on the news several times a couple of years ago. (It must have been a slow news week.) These birds had built a nest in a parking garage and they were dive bombing any humans who dared try to retrieve their cars. After describing the situation, I then point out just how small a mockingbird actually is [about 10" from beak to tail] compared to the size of a human. To say the least, this is a formidable instinctive drive!



Aberrant Behavior

In captivity we often see territorial behaviors that have become excessive, with the bird driving off not just strangers but other members of the household (other flock members) and even the person with whom the parrot is most bonded -- the equivalent of the bird driving its own mate away from the nest. Obviously, this is a serious behavior problem, which will seriously threaten the animal’s pet potential if allowed to go unchecked. It is also extremely common.

Some people feel that a pet parrot should be allowed this territorial behavior -- that its cage is its very own special place and it should be allowed to do as it pleases within that area. I emphatically do not agree.

Just as a human child should be allowed privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot should be allowed to have its moods -- and sometimes it will simply not be in the mood to interact with its human – it is playing happily by itself, it for example, or pondering a particularly tough concept of astral physics. An experienced parrot owner knows when their bird is not in the mood by simply watching its body language, and he/ she respects the bird's privacy and does not approach during these times.

However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't feel it is acceptable for a small child to be allowed to ban parents from his/her room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should be allowed to refuse their human flock entry into its "room" -- which is what John's parrot is doing.

If a person has a pair of breeding birds, that is a different story -- I would liken that to having a grown child visiting his parents with his wife -- at which point the rules change. In that case, I think the young adult's room should be private with the parents entering by invitation only.

Establishing Nurturing Dominance

A pet parrot that is excessively territorial is a bird who has been allowed to believe it outranks the humans in its flock, and is therefore, ordering these humans around. To get this little tyrant under control, the humans must establish a relationship of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la Sally Blanchard) by teaching the bird the commands of "up" and "down" to put controls on the bird's behavior. This simple and incredibly effective training technique was explained in detail in a separate article ("Nurturing Dominance: What It Is and How To Establish It").

As I explained in that article, the bird is removed from its cage and control is taught in daily training sessions that take place on a neutral perch in a neutral territory -- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair) and room (i.e. a guest room or bath) that the bird does not consider to be its own turf. (Trying to establish controls over a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or even within sight of its cage is an exercise in futility and a great way to get bitten.)

Once the bird is responding to the human's order by stepping onto his/her hand every time the person says Up and off the hand onto the perch every time with a Down, then the human can start moving the training perch out of the neutral area and into the area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few inches at a time -- and then work again on the commands, making sure the bird follows them to the letter. To maintain consistency from then on, the person will ALWAYS use these commands whenever and wherever he/she is handling the bird.

Back on the Bird's Turf.....

Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training sessions often become more difficult, but the person should not lose heart.

With patience and consistency (and a little time), the bird will again respond to the commands that it followed beautifully when out of sight of its territory. Under NO circumstance should the human lose his/her temper (tempting though it may be at times), since that usually provides the drama that parrots love -- few things tickle them more than making their pet person mad enough to yell. After all, what a wonderful game! (I discussed the Drama Reward in another article.)

When the teacher and the pupil have at last worked their way back to the cage, the human should put the bird onto his perch in the cage with the Down command, then immediately pick him up again with the Up command. Doing this several times in a row will teach the bird that these commands work just as well inside the cage as out. This process should also be repeated on the cage top, as well as on and around any other place where the parrot hangs out.


New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage

From that point on, whenever the bird wants to be let out of its cage, it must step onto the person's hand when the human says Up. If it refuses, then it is not allowed out of the cage until it changes its mind and follows the command. Under no circumstance should the person simply open the cage door and walk away -- this will convince the parrot it is again in control of its life and the humans in its flock.

Once the bird has come out of the cage with the proper commands, if the human wishes, the parrot can be placed on top with the Down so it can go in and out at will. At the end of the day, the bird should be returned to his cage with a Down.


Altitude vs. Attitude

Always keep in mind that height is correlated directly with dominance in the mind of the companion parrot -- so a bird above eye level generally considers itself higher on the pecking order. This height significance must be considered when choosing the training perch, as well as with perch placement in a parrot’s cage. Aggressive birds should not be allowed to perch higher than the person’s chest level. The top of the bird's cage may not be a good place for the parrot to play if it starts getting delusions of superiority. A separate play area set on a low table usually solves this problem.

Even after the parrot is behaving itself around the cage (and everywhere else), the human should keep up training sessions every week or so, just to remind the bird that the rules are still in force. It is also critical that any other humans handling the bird should use the same commands in exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS using the Up to get the bird on his/her hand, and off the hand with a Down. Otherwise, the bird will become confused -- just as a human child does when two parents enforce different rules.

Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild, there appears to be a constant push-pull going on within the flock, with challenges happening constantly. So the human should not be surprised when a previously well behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command -- it is just checking to see if the human is really in control. By insisting the command be followed, the human simply reaffirms that.

So by following these easy training techniques and handling their parrot in a firm, loving and consistent manner, John and his wife can get control of their headstrong bundle of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving relationship they used to enjoy.

Bird Cages, Perches, Dishes, and Other Cage Accessories

Large bird cages provide parrots lots of mobilityThe most important item needed before your bird is brought home is a cage. Remember, even birds that come out of the cage to socialize spend a large part of the day in their cage. Providing the right bird cage, perches, dishes, and other cage accessories will help your bird have a happy, healthy environment.

Bird Cages

Bar spacing: Bigger is better as long as the spacing between the bars is narrow enough to prevent injury if the bird tries to escape. The bird's head should not be able to fit between the bars.

Cage Size: For medium to large size birds, the cage living area (does not include space between floor grate and tray floor) should be a minimum of 1-1/2 times your bird’s adult wingspan in width, depth, and height. This allows comfortable movement and may reduce the risk of feather damage. For smaller birds, a cage should provide the room needed for flying.

Budgies like to move around and should have a cage that is tall and wide. Canaries and finches like to fly and should have a cage that is wide and long to allow for flight. Cockatiels need a cage that is big enough so the crest on the head and the long tail fit without being crushed. The size recommended at most pet stores is going to be the minimum size for that species of bird. Your bird will be happier with a larger, more spacious cage.

Cage Door: The door needs to be large enough to comfortably put your hand through, catch the bird, remove the bird, and replace the bird. The latch on the door needs to be escape-proof also as the bird is going to have a lot of time to find a way to open it. Some owners place a clip or a padlock on the door of their escape artist's cage.

Cage Shape: Stick with square or rectangular cages as these are easier to clean and safer for the pet. As the number of corners in the cage increases, the flight area is decreased and the connecting edges decrease safety.

Cage Material: Metal is usually the best material as it stands up to the abuse birds give it and is easy to clean and disinfect.

Cage Bottom: A sliding bottom tray is commonly seen in bird cages. This should be easy to remove, clean, and replace with no gaps that the bird can escape through, either while the tray is removed for cleaning or while the tray is in place. Newspapers are commonly used to line the tray and should be changed daily. Do not use wood shavings or chips as they are dustier and can irritate your bird's airways.

Cage location

Place the cage so the bird perches at about your chest level. Lower than that (especially if placed on the ground) and the bird will be anxious and feel vulnerable. Do not place it higher than your chest level as 'higher' means 'superior' to birds. In the wild, the more dominant birds perch on higher branches. Keep the bird in a sunny, draft-free area. If the bird is more social, keep it in an area of human activity. If the bird is less social, it may be happier in a quieter area of the house.

Several furnishings are needed for the cage. These include perches, dishes, grooming supplies, nest box (depending upon species), cage cover, and toys. Make sure that when the accessories are all in the cage that the bird still has plenty of room to fly and move about without colliding with obstacles. Remember that many cage accessories will need to be replaced periodically due to chewing, constant cleaning, and regular wear and tear.

Perches

Birds spend the majority of their time standing on their feet so good perches are essential. A variety of types and sizes should be supplied. It is often recommended that each cage have a concrete perch, a natural branch perch, and a manmade perch. Choose a perch size appropriate to the size of the bird (see above table).

Concrete or mineral perches: A concrete (mineral) perch gives the bird a spot to groom his beak and nails. These may also be called grooming perches.

Branch perches: Natural tree branches are better than the wooden dowels normally supplied when the cage is purchased. Because of their uneven shape of branches, the bird is not always putting pressure on the same part of the foot when he stands. Most fruit and nut trees are fine to use as are ash, elm, dogwood, and magnolia. Grapevines can also be tried. Cut the branches to fit the cage, scrub and clean them well with detergent, rinse, and dry in the sun. Check for insect egg pods and remove before placing the perch in the cage or the egg pods will hatch in the cage. It is recommended to heat natural branches for 45 minutes in a 200º oven to kill any insects.

Manmade perches: Bird on a natural rope perchUntreated cotton rope is great to use for perches. It can be tossed in the washing machine for cleaning. Monitor it closely so the bird does not eat any of the strings or catch a toe in a frayed area.

Other perch options include swings, which parakeets and some of the medium-sized birds often enjoy. As you select perches, realize that birds will chew and shred everything in the cage except the dishes and the cage itself. All other items, including perches, should be obtained knowing that birds like to chew, shred, and destroy things. As perches wear, remember to replace what he is destroying with more of the same (as long as it is safe). Plastic perches are not recommended as they are slippery and can cause medical problems if eaten. Sandpaper should not be used on the perch as it scratches the bird's feet.

Perch placement: When placing perches, locate one by the food and water dishes, one by the toys, and the concrete perch elsewhere in the cage for grooming. Place the perches so they do not inhibit bird movement or cause damage to the feathers as the bird moves around the cage. Perches should be placed so the bird's tail will not touch the side of the cage when sitting on the perch. Avoid placing perches directly over food and water dishes.

Dishes

Dishes need to be appropriately sized for the bird. The food and water dishes need to be easy to remove and clean since this needs to be done on a daily basis. Those made out of stainless steel, crockery, or high-impact plastic are able to withstand the washing and disinfecting necessary to maintain the health of the bird. Water may be given in a dish or in a water bottle such as the type guinea pigs use. Make sure the bird knows how to use the bottle and that it is easy to remove, wash, and refill. Use a bottle brush for cleaning it. Locate food and water dishes where they will not be contaminated with droppings. Having an extra set of dishes makes cleaning easier.

Grooming supplies

Grooming supplies include nail clippers, a sharp pair of scissors, a spray bottle for misting, and a bird bath. An ordinary plant mister and plastic dish for the bird's bath are fine but should not be used for anything else to prevent contamination.

Nest boxes

For smaller birds, such as finches, nest boxes should be supplied for a place to hide. These boxes can be attached toward the top of the cage and should be easy to remove and clean.

Cage covers

Cage covers are used to signal to the bird that it is bedtime and he should be quiet. A cover made to fit the cage can be purchased. An old sheet or pillowcase will also work to cover the cage at night. A cage cover should not be used as punishment or for extended periods of time outside of sleeping hours. For larger birds that are used to handling, many people prefer to have a separate cage in a quiet room for nighttime use. Providing a quiet, dark area for sleeping is very important since sleep deprivation can result in health and behavior problems.

Toys

Bird playing with a bird toy pinata Toys should be plentiful and alternated. Toys are what will occupy the bird through the largest part of the day while the owners are gone. Small birds like small, lightweight toys, and tiny mirrors. Larger birds like to manipulate toys with their beak, tongue, and feet. Birds will chew their toys so choose items made from nontoxic wood or hardened plastic. Check the toys daily for damage. Rotating the toys every several days to a week will help keep the bird interested in the toys. A bored bird is at high risk for behavioral and health problems. Finding toys that are favorites will entail trial and error. Try a wide variety as long as they are safe. Locate the toys where they are easily accessible to the bird, e.g., at the end of perches. Foraging toys require birds to work for their food, giving much-needed mental stimulation, and providing a way of feeding that more closely resembles what the bird would do in the wild.

Sanitation

All items should be able to be cleaned in hot soapy water or put through the dishwasher set on the hot water cycle. Disinfecting can be done by mixing one-half cup bleach to one gallon of water. Clean and disinfect items away from the bird, rinse thoroughly, and air-dry completely before returning the item to the bird. Do not use scented cleaners as they can be harmful to the bird's respiratory membranes.

Other Accessories

Other bird accessories you should consider include:

* A carrier cage for visits to the veterinarian and other travel, and/or a "sleep" cage
* A play area for the larger birds
* Bird baths, misters and showers
* Good reference books
* Air filters and humidifiers if your bird lives in an environment in which these may be necessary
* UV lighting

Each species is going to require research on their specific needs for housing, feeding, and socialization. The above is a good starting point toward providing your bird with the necessities for a good life.

Bird Toy Safety

Is plastic a safe product for my bird? Are there any unnatural chemicals used? I have read about phthalates, is that still used in plastic? Will my bird swallow plastic? Will plastic pass safely through if accidentally swallowed? Will my bird like playing with plastic? Why use plastic toys for my bird? What are some advantages and disadvantages of plastic toys compared to wooden toys?

Powder coated paint is plastic. Bird cages that are powder coated are painted with plastic paint. Birds living in powder coated cages without the presence of metallic or other harmful additives are healthy and have no known adverse effects from the plastic paint.

If zinc or other metallic additives are added to the plastic paint to help it adhere to the metal better, the zinc can cause a health problem. But don't throw the baby out with the bath water, as most plastic does not have any metallic additives. The photo shows a powder coated cage with a playtop. My Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo is very secure, healthy and happy with her plastic painted surfaces and toys.

As a general rule, birds don't swallow non-food items like wood or plastic except by accident. Plastic requires 400 degrees of heat to break down. Due to this high-heat requirement, plastic will not melt or be compromised in your birds system. Anything small enough to swallow should pass right through their system and come out as "confetti bird poop."

Plastic was first widely used on toys in my area of Texas in the early 1990s. Alphabet letters, airplanes, dominoes, dice, animal figures, and boats were the first plastic items many of us used on bird toys. These plastic toys continue to be great favorites of many parrots.

In 1998, the plastics industry began changing its softener from phthalates to natural citrus softeners. Citrate Esters is the name usually associated with the softening of plastic this natural way. Today's plastic is a clean product that can be completely disinfected after purchase. I clean bought toys with 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water, rinse well and dry outside in the sunlight to kill any germs the cleaner missed.

My observation is that birds who are afraid of toys are attracted to acrylic toys. Acrylic is a plastic. If the bird can see through a toy the timid bird feels better about the toy. Acrylics like pacifiers, see-through beads and buttons, and any sturdy acrylic part delight some birds that have never played with toys before. The Umbrella Cockatoo in the photo sleeps snuggled to her translucent toys. (See Picture of snuggled Cockatoo)

Many birds adore plastic based toys and attack them with enthusiasm. People often say that plastic toys are the only ones their birds will play with. Wooden toys are used for beak conditioning, and the plastic ones are courted, danced for, and completely enjoyed by parrots. (See Picture of my Umbrella dancing with her plastic toy.)

I am privileged to share my heart with a male Moluccan named Cowboy Dallas. His 2 wooden toys have been hanging in his cage since Christmas morning, over 6 months. He plays with plastic toys, using his wooden toys for leveling off his beak growth. He is a happy, strong, handsome boy and his plastic toys are a big part of his joyful and exuberant personality. (See picture of Dallas)

Plastic's affordability to manufacture, friendliness to the environment, and cost-effective shipping costs due to lighter-than-wood weight makes it a product our parrot's can enjoy for hours and hours when they can't be out of the cage playing. Wood can not be as completely disinfected as plastic due to its porous nature.

Some food dishes are plastic and no ill effects have been reported. To relieve cage boredom, provide more toys at affordable pricing, and just for the fun of it, see if your parrot would enjoy the plastic lid from a can or a soda straw or coffee stir. To see if your bird likes plastic toys, you can try toys with wood and plastic parts like the toy pictured with Skeeter the Eclectus. (See Picture of Skeeter)

Match the bird's size and strength to plastic toys. A powerful Moluccan can play safely with tough plastics and pliable plastics. A smaller parrot can play with a wider variety of plastics safely. Plastics have proven to be a safe part of today's avian products. For more than 10 years we have housed our parrots in plastic coated cages and offered them toys of plastic. Today's citrus-softened plastics have given parrot keepers new and exciting plastic products to enrich our parrots lives.

Home Tweet Home

Your bird's cage is his/her home and should bring your bird a feeling of comfort and security. It is also the largest expense, after the initial purchase of the bird, that you will need to make. Great care should be taken when selecting a cage, especially, when you consider the amount of time that a bird spends in it's cage.

Safety should be your first consideration when shopping for a cage. Many pet birds have become injured from the very thing that should make them feel safe....their cage. These injuries can range from minor toe abrasions to death from strangulation. Look at the overall cage construction and ask yourself the following list of questions.

* Is the cage knock down or welded?
* Are there screws, nuts, and bolts, used to hold the cage together?
* What type of material is used in the cage construction?
* What type of finish is used on the cage and how is it applied?

* Does the cage have any scroll work or other decorative features?
* What is the bar spacing?
* What is the diameter of the bars?
* How many crossbars are in the design?

* What shape is the cage?
* What are the dimensions of the cage?

* Are there swing out feeder doors?
* Is there a locking mechanism on all of the doors, including the feeder doors?
* Is there a litter tray?
* Is there a removable grid?
* Is there a seed guard?
* Is there a play top?


Safety- Consider the type of bird that will call the cage home. Knock down cages require assembly and may use hardware to hold the cage together. If so, find out what type of metal hardware is used in the cage construction. Also consider if your bird will have access to the hardware and whether he/she will be able to disassemble the hardware. Look for any pieces that could easily be removed. These pieces could accidently be swallowed by your pet bird. Solid welded cages are stronger, but it is possible that the welds can break over time.

The majority of cages are constructed from a variety of different metals that include: wire, stainless steel, zinc, brass, and chrome. Wire cages are the most economical and are often used as breeding cages and travel carriers. These cages are processed in two different ways. You have the choice of Galvanized after welded and Galvanized before welded. The cages are Galvanized to prevent the metal from rusting. Galvanized after welded is generally considered safer. The welds may expose hazardous metals that can cause metal poisoning. Most wire cage manufacturers recommend an initial cleaning using vinegar and a wire brush. Metal poisoning can occur if the metal or metal flakes are ingested. Clean and inspect wire cages regularly looking for broken welds, broken wires, and metal flakes.

Metal cages are in the medium price range. They are manufactured in a wide variety of metals, sizes, shapes, and colors. They are usually brass or chrome plated, or have a powdered coated paint finish. Powdered coated finishes are more resistant to chipping, rust, and are easier to clean than the plated cages The plating can wear off over time. Some of the cage manufacturers offer a textured finish which not only make chips and scratches less noticeable, but give a better footing for grasping and climbing.

Stainless steel is the most expensive cage on the market, but stainless steel is the safest material for cage construction. These cages will never rust, chip, or cause metal poisoning. They are easy to clean and they are strong enough for even the most powerful beaks. A stainless steel cage will last a lifetime and be the most economical when you consider that it will never need replacing.

Some decorative features enhance the appearance of the cage, but can pose a safety risk. Scroll work may trap beaks, heads or toes, resulting in minor injuries or death.

Bar spacing is equally important in preventing injuries and allowing for maximum climbing mobility. Make sure the bar spacing is smaller than your bird's head to prevent him/her from becoming trapped in the bars. Horizontal bars give greater climbing mobility for increased exercise and play. The diameters of the bars determine the strength of the bars. The bars should be stronger than your bird and they should be large enough to allow for easy gripping.

SIZE and shape is also an important factor when considering a cage. I generally recommend that you purchase the largest cage that your can afford and can accommodate space wise. At the very minimum, your bird should be able to comfortably extend both of his/her wings at the same time. Highly active birds such as: Lovebirds, Parrotlets, Caiques, etc., require a larger cage than their size would indicate. The cage should be large enough to hang a few toys and allow for active play such as climbing, swinging, hopping, jumping, etc.

The overall shape of the cage will determine how much actually usable space is available.With the exception of Macaws and other long tailed birds, the width of the cage is more important than the height. Use the inside width dimensions to determine the amount of usable space. Round or dome top cages can make placement of hanging toys more difficult.

COMPONENTS such as Swing out feeder doors offer a safe and convenient way to feed, especially for the aggressive bird and breeding pairs. Your bird sitter will also appreciate the added security. Most cages come with 2 feeding stations and two dishes. Several cages are manufactured with 3 to 4 feeding stations. Extra feeding stations will allow you to offer several different types of food at the same time. For added convenience, purchase an extra set of food dishes.

Food dishes come in a varity of styles, colors, shapes, and are made from plastic, ceramic, or stainless steel. Lock down feeder dishes will prevent your bird from dumping his/her dishes over. Some birds like to toss their seed out of their dish. Dish covers and hoods can help contain the mess and save on wasted seed.

The main entry door on your cage should be large enough to remove the bird with ease. Entry doors and feeder doors should have a locking mechanism that will prevent accidental escape. If your bird learns how to open the cage doors, then you will have to add some type of safety feature such as quick links or locks. Make sure the quick links and/or locks are inaccessible to your bird.

Removable grids and litter trays are other cage options. They are easier to clean than solid cage floors.They can also prevent your bird from getting to the old food on the bottom of the cage, provided the distance between the grid and the tray is greater than your bird can reach. It is amazing at how far they can stretch those legs.

Removable seed guards can also help contain the mess to the inside of the cage making clean up outside of the cage easier. Seed guards will also need to be cleaned regularly.

Play tops are a convenient way to give birds time out of the cage. They can save space and money by not having to purchase an additional playstand. Many of the play top cages have an extra litter tray for use on the play top to make clean up easier.

CLEANING the cage is an important aspect to maintaining the good health of your pet bird. Change the litter tray daily. Wash the entire cage and perches weekly (or more often if necessary) using a mild soap. Disinfect the cage monthly using a 10% bleach/water solution, or other commercial disinfectant, and rinse well.

Purchasing a new bird is an exciting time and shopping for all of the supplies can be fun. Consider all aspects of the cage construction and disign . Remember to consider safety first and your bird's cage will truly become his/her castle.

Cages, Cages, Cages

With so many cages available on the market today how do you choose the right one? That is the question I asked everyone from veterinarians to manufacturers, breeders, distributors, retailers, bird owners and anyone else who might have an educated opinion. I received many different opinions, all valuable, but the most important issue that all mentioned was safety. Some liked special features, colors, etc. However, the one item that was first and foremost in everyone's mind is safety.

Safety is not something that can be limited to one item on a cage, it involves the whole cage - the paint, casters, dishes, feeding areas, perches, grills, trays, bar spacing and the locking devices. I will attempt to cover some helpful hints to keep in mind while you are out shopping for a home for your special friend.

Hint #1 - GO TO THE SOURCE!!!!
Speak to the manufacturers about their cages versus other cages on the market. Keep in mind that they are trying to sell a cage and will emphasize their good points. However, I did find that most of them simply try to explain their features and why they are important to your bird. Make notes, and compare price versus quality. Use what you learn from one manufacturer to ask similar questions of another manufacturer. The manufacturers themselves can be your most reliable source for getting the correct information to us the consumers. Simply ask "Why should I buy your cage over your competitors?".

Be sure to ask the manufacturers about their paint or powdercoating. Ask if the cages are non-toxic. Lead and zinc have become a very widespread subject of concern. Birds do require some lead and zinc to be healthy, but above certain levels these elements are toxic. Ask the manufacturer to explain what tests he uses on his cages. Stainless steel cages don't need paint and last very well. However, they are also much more expensive.

Everyone from vets to breeders have different opinions about what causes heavy metal poisoning. One thing I did find out was that lead and zinc are found in many different sources. Pennies, water, wall paint, food, vitamins, treatments for carpets and furniture - just to name few - all contain these elements. One thing is for sure, we are surrounded by it everyday. In this confusion, it is necessary to ask about the materials used to manufacture the cages. However, simply stated, cages from responsible companies are rarely to blame for toxicity. When a bird becomes ill, a complete analysis is necessary (testing almost everything the bird has been in contact with) to determine the true cause. No one wants to lose an animal due to this. So again, ask the question to make an educated decision.

Hint #2 - CHECK OUT THE WELDS!!!!
Many companies' cages are constructed by placing the bars into holes drilled in the main frame. This is a less expensive and faster way to manufacture. The painting process fills the holes superficially with paint. When the cage is shipped from the plant to its final destination or if it receives stress, the paint can separate from the holes. Once the cage gets wet, the water sits inside the tubular steel and the cage can begin to rust. I've learned that welding the bars to the main frame is really the best way to go. The cage is stronger and rusting is not a concern because there is no place for water to sit and rust the cage from the inside out.

Hint #3 - UP ON WHEELS!!!!
The cage itself must be sturdy; this starts from the bottom up. The wheels (casters) are very important. Checks to see what type of casters are on your cage or cage stand. Plastic wheels seem to break a bit more easily than ball bearing casters. This of course depends on the size and weight of the cage itself. However, keep in mind you will be moving the cage for cleaning etc....

Hint #4 - FEED ME!!!!
The dishes used in cages are very important. Certain materials such as plastic and ceramic can absorb food product. These materials are very difficult to sanitize properly. In addition, birds can chew plastic and ceramic can break. Metal dishes are best. Also, make sure to use stainless steel dishes. Some are simply metal. This too can be a problem. They can rust very easily or the metal may contain zinc or lead. Stainless steel cups can be sanitized quickly and easily and unless run over or beaten with a blunt object they will not break. Sanitation is a very important part of the nutrition process for our feathered friends. Remember, veterinarians use stainless steel instruments.

Hint #5 - KEEP OUT!!!
Just like you and I, sometimes our beloved pet does not want to be bothered, even with something as important as feeding time. Maybe you have a breeding mom or you have gone out of town and someone else is caring for your bird or your bird is just not in a good mood or wants to sleep. At such times, if a hand goes into the cage, it might not come out without a good nip. I recommend cages with outside access to the cups. Be sure the accesses are easy to open and close, the cups are secure and not easy to dump, and that the doors are difficult for your bird to open or have a locking mechanism. This is very important with larger birds.

Hint #6 - SIT ON IT!!!!
Perches can come in many different sizes. In the wild, birds rest on tree branches of many different sizes and at many different angles. Let's try not to forget this. It is important to place different sized perches in the cage. Those with varying widths, bumps and angles like tree branches are best. It helps prevent the bird's feet from becoming arthritic. Birds pick different sizes to stand on just like we pick different shoes, so their feet and muscles do not become stiff. Most manufacturers have basic perches in the cages. It is really up to us to create a complete environment for them.

That however is not the only important part of the perches. Also make sure they are properly placed in the cage. Look at the placement inside the cage. Can the bird reach the feeding area from a perch? If not, the bird will sit on or in its dish to eat or drink. Don't place a perch where fecal droppings may fall on a perch below or into the feeding bowls which could contaminate the food. And place at least one perch high up in the cage.

Hint #7 - GRILLS AND TRAYS!!!!
Well this was a subject that got a bit touchy. Again, safety is the concern. Make sure the bars on the grill are close enough together for your bird to walk on, yet far enough apart for items such as food, droppings, etc. to fall through. It must fit around all four sides of the cage well. You also want to make sure that there is enough distance between the grill and the tray. The little pooper-scoopers may try to get at the bottom tray for decaying food product or the paper product that is protecting the tray. The tray itself is hard enough to get to for cleaning. Again, ask if they slide out. If so, the problem of cleaning the grill and tray are taken care of. Just slide them out and wash them down.

Hint #8 - LOCK ME UP!!!
In my cage search I found so many cages locks my head was spinning. They swing up, push in, pull down, use a key, pull up and out or swing out. Needless to say, I saw everything but one that sings and dances. Keep in mind the front door lock is very important not just for your safety but for your bird's safety as well. Ask the manufacturers about their locks. Ask how they work. Let them explain it. If the food doors have locks, ask about them as well. Make sure your little Houdini can't just watch you do it and bingo - your end table became lunch while you were away. Ask the question!!!

Hint #9 - BAR NONE???
Bar spacing is extremely important for your bird's safety as well. Again, people had different opinions on this subject. Birds come in all different sizes. If the bars are too close together your bird could get stuck. If they are too far apart your baby could escape or get his head or body stuck in the bars as well. Also, for our larger feathered friends, if the spacing is too close together, they could get their beaks wrapped around and snap the welds.

Ask a reliable source what bar spacing is recommended for your type of bird. Then ask the manufacturers if they measure the bar spacing from the middle of the bar to the middle of the bar. Do they measure the space between the bars only or do they measure from the beginning of the bar to the beginning of the next bar? This will help you figure out which cage size to buy from that manufacturer. Also, keep in mind that you do want to show your bird off, yet make sure that the cage is completely safe. Ask, Ask, Ask.

Hint #10 - SIZING IT UP!!!
Make sure your bird has plenty of room to move around and exercise while in its home. Check for proper wing span room as well as tail feather room. They should be able to easily open and flap their wings for exercise from a few places within the cage. They must have enough room to move around as freely as possible and get exercise. For birds with long tails, be sure that the tail will not constantly be extending outside of the cage. Also consider having at least two sides of the cage with vertical bars, so that the tail can easily ride up and down without destroying the tail feathers. Space is a concern in most homes; most of us would love to have a rainforest in our back yards. However, since this is a bit unrealistic, the more room the better.

Also consider your height when purchasing a cage. Can you easily reach the top to retrieve your bird from it? Is it so high that the bird can feel dominant over you?

Hint #11 - PLAYTIME
A bored bird can become very destructive. Birds chew a lot. It helps keep the beak in condition and is also a natural nesting instinct. Most birds will chew on anything - paint, walls, furniture, jewelry. You name it, they will chew it. Toys, and a lot of them, are great. Get inside your cage. Find out if toys can be easily hung. If there aren't any loops inside the cage for hanging toys, make sure the bars are strong enough to hold toys, swings, manzanita, etc.. Again, your end table could be lunch.

Hint #12 - DESIGN QUALITY!!!
Depending on your preferences many different cage designs are available - round, flat, pointy, perch tops, removable tops, tops that open, tops that fold out. Take your bird's personality into account when making your choice. Make sure that the quality of the cage extends from the bottom to the top of the cage. Quality is not only in the design of the exterior of the cage. A quality cage is one that meets or exceeds standards of excellence throughout the design and includes extra features that meet the special needs of our feathered friends.

Hint #13 - Ouch!!!
Watch for sharp edges on the cage. This usually happesn where metal meets metal. Look on the inside as well as the outside of the cage. Run your hands around any area that may be suspect.

Hint #14 - Who do you trust???
Many people offer advice, and they do mean well. However, with technology becoming more and more advanced, it is easy to fall prey to incorrect remarks about a brand of cages. Remember there are 2 sides to every story. Check out the reliability of the source. You don't want to lose out on a great cage because someone has ignorantly repeated an erroneous story. Check out the facts.

As consumers we tend to want to believe other consumers. We have been taught that word of mouth is the best way to find things out. Technology has given us the freedom to do this without using our mouths. With the touch of a button we can create a harmful slant , believing that we will not have any backlash. The scary part is that, true or untrue, we can affect many people with our stories and opinions.

The manufacturers that I spoke with were very helpful and also very informed. Remember the one simple question "Why should I buy your cage?". So please get the facts and make an educated decision. It really is as simple as a few phone calls.