Bird Cage Territoriality

Guarding One's Turf

This behavior is called cage territoriality or cage dominance, and like many (most?) of the behaviors we see in captive parrots, it has a foundation in instinct. In the wild, a parrot must protect its territory from invasion not only by predators but also other parrots. Dr. Charles Munn, in his National Geographic article on macaws in the Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged Rainbows", Jan. 94), comments that "a contributing factor in the macaws' low reproduction rate [in the wild] is an acute housing shortage." An unprotected nest is often subject to a hostile takeover by another pair of parrots eager to start a family. So guarding one's territory is necessary to successfully raise a family and therefore fulfill the Prime Directive of propagating one's own species. John's parrot didn't exhibit this behavior before, because it was just a baby.

In working with clients, I like to use as an example the behavior of a pair of mockingbirds who made it on the news several times a couple of years ago. (It must have been a slow news week.) These birds had built a nest in a parking garage and they were dive bombing any humans who dared try to retrieve their cars. After describing the situation, I then point out just how small a mockingbird actually is [about 10" from beak to tail] compared to the size of a human. To say the least, this is a formidable instinctive drive!



Aberrant Behavior

In captivity we often see territorial behaviors that have become excessive, with the bird driving off not just strangers but other members of the household (other flock members) and even the person with whom the parrot is most bonded -- the equivalent of the bird driving its own mate away from the nest. Obviously, this is a serious behavior problem, which will seriously threaten the animal’s pet potential if allowed to go unchecked. It is also extremely common.

Some people feel that a pet parrot should be allowed this territorial behavior -- that its cage is its very own special place and it should be allowed to do as it pleases within that area. I emphatically do not agree.

Just as a human child should be allowed privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot should be allowed to have its moods -- and sometimes it will simply not be in the mood to interact with its human – it is playing happily by itself, it for example, or pondering a particularly tough concept of astral physics. An experienced parrot owner knows when their bird is not in the mood by simply watching its body language, and he/ she respects the bird's privacy and does not approach during these times.

However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't feel it is acceptable for a small child to be allowed to ban parents from his/her room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should be allowed to refuse their human flock entry into its "room" -- which is what John's parrot is doing.

If a person has a pair of breeding birds, that is a different story -- I would liken that to having a grown child visiting his parents with his wife -- at which point the rules change. In that case, I think the young adult's room should be private with the parents entering by invitation only.

Establishing Nurturing Dominance

A pet parrot that is excessively territorial is a bird who has been allowed to believe it outranks the humans in its flock, and is therefore, ordering these humans around. To get this little tyrant under control, the humans must establish a relationship of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la Sally Blanchard) by teaching the bird the commands of "up" and "down" to put controls on the bird's behavior. This simple and incredibly effective training technique was explained in detail in a separate article ("Nurturing Dominance: What It Is and How To Establish It").

As I explained in that article, the bird is removed from its cage and control is taught in daily training sessions that take place on a neutral perch in a neutral territory -- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair) and room (i.e. a guest room or bath) that the bird does not consider to be its own turf. (Trying to establish controls over a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or even within sight of its cage is an exercise in futility and a great way to get bitten.)

Once the bird is responding to the human's order by stepping onto his/her hand every time the person says Up and off the hand onto the perch every time with a Down, then the human can start moving the training perch out of the neutral area and into the area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few inches at a time -- and then work again on the commands, making sure the bird follows them to the letter. To maintain consistency from then on, the person will ALWAYS use these commands whenever and wherever he/she is handling the bird.

Back on the Bird's Turf.....

Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training sessions often become more difficult, but the person should not lose heart.

With patience and consistency (and a little time), the bird will again respond to the commands that it followed beautifully when out of sight of its territory. Under NO circumstance should the human lose his/her temper (tempting though it may be at times), since that usually provides the drama that parrots love -- few things tickle them more than making their pet person mad enough to yell. After all, what a wonderful game! (I discussed the Drama Reward in another article.)

When the teacher and the pupil have at last worked their way back to the cage, the human should put the bird onto his perch in the cage with the Down command, then immediately pick him up again with the Up command. Doing this several times in a row will teach the bird that these commands work just as well inside the cage as out. This process should also be repeated on the cage top, as well as on and around any other place where the parrot hangs out.


New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage

From that point on, whenever the bird wants to be let out of its cage, it must step onto the person's hand when the human says Up. If it refuses, then it is not allowed out of the cage until it changes its mind and follows the command. Under no circumstance should the person simply open the cage door and walk away -- this will convince the parrot it is again in control of its life and the humans in its flock.

Once the bird has come out of the cage with the proper commands, if the human wishes, the parrot can be placed on top with the Down so it can go in and out at will. At the end of the day, the bird should be returned to his cage with a Down.


Altitude vs. Attitude

Always keep in mind that height is correlated directly with dominance in the mind of the companion parrot -- so a bird above eye level generally considers itself higher on the pecking order. This height significance must be considered when choosing the training perch, as well as with perch placement in a parrot’s cage. Aggressive birds should not be allowed to perch higher than the person’s chest level. The top of the bird's cage may not be a good place for the parrot to play if it starts getting delusions of superiority. A separate play area set on a low table usually solves this problem.

Even after the parrot is behaving itself around the cage (and everywhere else), the human should keep up training sessions every week or so, just to remind the bird that the rules are still in force. It is also critical that any other humans handling the bird should use the same commands in exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS using the Up to get the bird on his/her hand, and off the hand with a Down. Otherwise, the bird will become confused -- just as a human child does when two parents enforce different rules.

Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild, there appears to be a constant push-pull going on within the flock, with challenges happening constantly. So the human should not be surprised when a previously well behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command -- it is just checking to see if the human is really in control. By insisting the command be followed, the human simply reaffirms that.

So by following these easy training techniques and handling their parrot in a firm, loving and consistent manner, John and his wife can get control of their headstrong bundle of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving relationship they used to enjoy.

Bird Cages, Perches, Dishes, and Other Cage Accessories

Large bird cages provide parrots lots of mobilityThe most important item needed before your bird is brought home is a cage. Remember, even birds that come out of the cage to socialize spend a large part of the day in their cage. Providing the right bird cage, perches, dishes, and other cage accessories will help your bird have a happy, healthy environment.

Bird Cages

Bar spacing: Bigger is better as long as the spacing between the bars is narrow enough to prevent injury if the bird tries to escape. The bird's head should not be able to fit between the bars.

Cage Size: For medium to large size birds, the cage living area (does not include space between floor grate and tray floor) should be a minimum of 1-1/2 times your bird’s adult wingspan in width, depth, and height. This allows comfortable movement and may reduce the risk of feather damage. For smaller birds, a cage should provide the room needed for flying.

Budgies like to move around and should have a cage that is tall and wide. Canaries and finches like to fly and should have a cage that is wide and long to allow for flight. Cockatiels need a cage that is big enough so the crest on the head and the long tail fit without being crushed. The size recommended at most pet stores is going to be the minimum size for that species of bird. Your bird will be happier with a larger, more spacious cage.

Cage Door: The door needs to be large enough to comfortably put your hand through, catch the bird, remove the bird, and replace the bird. The latch on the door needs to be escape-proof also as the bird is going to have a lot of time to find a way to open it. Some owners place a clip or a padlock on the door of their escape artist's cage.

Cage Shape: Stick with square or rectangular cages as these are easier to clean and safer for the pet. As the number of corners in the cage increases, the flight area is decreased and the connecting edges decrease safety.

Cage Material: Metal is usually the best material as it stands up to the abuse birds give it and is easy to clean and disinfect.

Cage Bottom: A sliding bottom tray is commonly seen in bird cages. This should be easy to remove, clean, and replace with no gaps that the bird can escape through, either while the tray is removed for cleaning or while the tray is in place. Newspapers are commonly used to line the tray and should be changed daily. Do not use wood shavings or chips as they are dustier and can irritate your bird's airways.

Cage location

Place the cage so the bird perches at about your chest level. Lower than that (especially if placed on the ground) and the bird will be anxious and feel vulnerable. Do not place it higher than your chest level as 'higher' means 'superior' to birds. In the wild, the more dominant birds perch on higher branches. Keep the bird in a sunny, draft-free area. If the bird is more social, keep it in an area of human activity. If the bird is less social, it may be happier in a quieter area of the house.

Several furnishings are needed for the cage. These include perches, dishes, grooming supplies, nest box (depending upon species), cage cover, and toys. Make sure that when the accessories are all in the cage that the bird still has plenty of room to fly and move about without colliding with obstacles. Remember that many cage accessories will need to be replaced periodically due to chewing, constant cleaning, and regular wear and tear.

Perches

Birds spend the majority of their time standing on their feet so good perches are essential. A variety of types and sizes should be supplied. It is often recommended that each cage have a concrete perch, a natural branch perch, and a manmade perch. Choose a perch size appropriate to the size of the bird (see above table).

Concrete or mineral perches: A concrete (mineral) perch gives the bird a spot to groom his beak and nails. These may also be called grooming perches.

Branch perches: Natural tree branches are better than the wooden dowels normally supplied when the cage is purchased. Because of their uneven shape of branches, the bird is not always putting pressure on the same part of the foot when he stands. Most fruit and nut trees are fine to use as are ash, elm, dogwood, and magnolia. Grapevines can also be tried. Cut the branches to fit the cage, scrub and clean them well with detergent, rinse, and dry in the sun. Check for insect egg pods and remove before placing the perch in the cage or the egg pods will hatch in the cage. It is recommended to heat natural branches for 45 minutes in a 200º oven to kill any insects.

Manmade perches: Bird on a natural rope perchUntreated cotton rope is great to use for perches. It can be tossed in the washing machine for cleaning. Monitor it closely so the bird does not eat any of the strings or catch a toe in a frayed area.

Other perch options include swings, which parakeets and some of the medium-sized birds often enjoy. As you select perches, realize that birds will chew and shred everything in the cage except the dishes and the cage itself. All other items, including perches, should be obtained knowing that birds like to chew, shred, and destroy things. As perches wear, remember to replace what he is destroying with more of the same (as long as it is safe). Plastic perches are not recommended as they are slippery and can cause medical problems if eaten. Sandpaper should not be used on the perch as it scratches the bird's feet.

Perch placement: When placing perches, locate one by the food and water dishes, one by the toys, and the concrete perch elsewhere in the cage for grooming. Place the perches so they do not inhibit bird movement or cause damage to the feathers as the bird moves around the cage. Perches should be placed so the bird's tail will not touch the side of the cage when sitting on the perch. Avoid placing perches directly over food and water dishes.

Dishes

Dishes need to be appropriately sized for the bird. The food and water dishes need to be easy to remove and clean since this needs to be done on a daily basis. Those made out of stainless steel, crockery, or high-impact plastic are able to withstand the washing and disinfecting necessary to maintain the health of the bird. Water may be given in a dish or in a water bottle such as the type guinea pigs use. Make sure the bird knows how to use the bottle and that it is easy to remove, wash, and refill. Use a bottle brush for cleaning it. Locate food and water dishes where they will not be contaminated with droppings. Having an extra set of dishes makes cleaning easier.

Grooming supplies

Grooming supplies include nail clippers, a sharp pair of scissors, a spray bottle for misting, and a bird bath. An ordinary plant mister and plastic dish for the bird's bath are fine but should not be used for anything else to prevent contamination.

Nest boxes

For smaller birds, such as finches, nest boxes should be supplied for a place to hide. These boxes can be attached toward the top of the cage and should be easy to remove and clean.

Cage covers

Cage covers are used to signal to the bird that it is bedtime and he should be quiet. A cover made to fit the cage can be purchased. An old sheet or pillowcase will also work to cover the cage at night. A cage cover should not be used as punishment or for extended periods of time outside of sleeping hours. For larger birds that are used to handling, many people prefer to have a separate cage in a quiet room for nighttime use. Providing a quiet, dark area for sleeping is very important since sleep deprivation can result in health and behavior problems.

Toys

Bird playing with a bird toy pinata Toys should be plentiful and alternated. Toys are what will occupy the bird through the largest part of the day while the owners are gone. Small birds like small, lightweight toys, and tiny mirrors. Larger birds like to manipulate toys with their beak, tongue, and feet. Birds will chew their toys so choose items made from nontoxic wood or hardened plastic. Check the toys daily for damage. Rotating the toys every several days to a week will help keep the bird interested in the toys. A bored bird is at high risk for behavioral and health problems. Finding toys that are favorites will entail trial and error. Try a wide variety as long as they are safe. Locate the toys where they are easily accessible to the bird, e.g., at the end of perches. Foraging toys require birds to work for their food, giving much-needed mental stimulation, and providing a way of feeding that more closely resembles what the bird would do in the wild.

Sanitation

All items should be able to be cleaned in hot soapy water or put through the dishwasher set on the hot water cycle. Disinfecting can be done by mixing one-half cup bleach to one gallon of water. Clean and disinfect items away from the bird, rinse thoroughly, and air-dry completely before returning the item to the bird. Do not use scented cleaners as they can be harmful to the bird's respiratory membranes.

Other Accessories

Other bird accessories you should consider include:

* A carrier cage for visits to the veterinarian and other travel, and/or a "sleep" cage
* A play area for the larger birds
* Bird baths, misters and showers
* Good reference books
* Air filters and humidifiers if your bird lives in an environment in which these may be necessary
* UV lighting

Each species is going to require research on their specific needs for housing, feeding, and socialization. The above is a good starting point toward providing your bird with the necessities for a good life.

Bird Toy Safety

Is plastic a safe product for my bird? Are there any unnatural chemicals used? I have read about phthalates, is that still used in plastic? Will my bird swallow plastic? Will plastic pass safely through if accidentally swallowed? Will my bird like playing with plastic? Why use plastic toys for my bird? What are some advantages and disadvantages of plastic toys compared to wooden toys?

Powder coated paint is plastic. Bird cages that are powder coated are painted with plastic paint. Birds living in powder coated cages without the presence of metallic or other harmful additives are healthy and have no known adverse effects from the plastic paint.

If zinc or other metallic additives are added to the plastic paint to help it adhere to the metal better, the zinc can cause a health problem. But don't throw the baby out with the bath water, as most plastic does not have any metallic additives. The photo shows a powder coated cage with a playtop. My Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo is very secure, healthy and happy with her plastic painted surfaces and toys.

As a general rule, birds don't swallow non-food items like wood or plastic except by accident. Plastic requires 400 degrees of heat to break down. Due to this high-heat requirement, plastic will not melt or be compromised in your birds system. Anything small enough to swallow should pass right through their system and come out as "confetti bird poop."

Plastic was first widely used on toys in my area of Texas in the early 1990s. Alphabet letters, airplanes, dominoes, dice, animal figures, and boats were the first plastic items many of us used on bird toys. These plastic toys continue to be great favorites of many parrots.

In 1998, the plastics industry began changing its softener from phthalates to natural citrus softeners. Citrate Esters is the name usually associated with the softening of plastic this natural way. Today's plastic is a clean product that can be completely disinfected after purchase. I clean bought toys with 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water, rinse well and dry outside in the sunlight to kill any germs the cleaner missed.

My observation is that birds who are afraid of toys are attracted to acrylic toys. Acrylic is a plastic. If the bird can see through a toy the timid bird feels better about the toy. Acrylics like pacifiers, see-through beads and buttons, and any sturdy acrylic part delight some birds that have never played with toys before. The Umbrella Cockatoo in the photo sleeps snuggled to her translucent toys. (See Picture of snuggled Cockatoo)

Many birds adore plastic based toys and attack them with enthusiasm. People often say that plastic toys are the only ones their birds will play with. Wooden toys are used for beak conditioning, and the plastic ones are courted, danced for, and completely enjoyed by parrots. (See Picture of my Umbrella dancing with her plastic toy.)

I am privileged to share my heart with a male Moluccan named Cowboy Dallas. His 2 wooden toys have been hanging in his cage since Christmas morning, over 6 months. He plays with plastic toys, using his wooden toys for leveling off his beak growth. He is a happy, strong, handsome boy and his plastic toys are a big part of his joyful and exuberant personality. (See picture of Dallas)

Plastic's affordability to manufacture, friendliness to the environment, and cost-effective shipping costs due to lighter-than-wood weight makes it a product our parrot's can enjoy for hours and hours when they can't be out of the cage playing. Wood can not be as completely disinfected as plastic due to its porous nature.

Some food dishes are plastic and no ill effects have been reported. To relieve cage boredom, provide more toys at affordable pricing, and just for the fun of it, see if your parrot would enjoy the plastic lid from a can or a soda straw or coffee stir. To see if your bird likes plastic toys, you can try toys with wood and plastic parts like the toy pictured with Skeeter the Eclectus. (See Picture of Skeeter)

Match the bird's size and strength to plastic toys. A powerful Moluccan can play safely with tough plastics and pliable plastics. A smaller parrot can play with a wider variety of plastics safely. Plastics have proven to be a safe part of today's avian products. For more than 10 years we have housed our parrots in plastic coated cages and offered them toys of plastic. Today's citrus-softened plastics have given parrot keepers new and exciting plastic products to enrich our parrots lives.

Home Tweet Home

Your bird's cage is his/her home and should bring your bird a feeling of comfort and security. It is also the largest expense, after the initial purchase of the bird, that you will need to make. Great care should be taken when selecting a cage, especially, when you consider the amount of time that a bird spends in it's cage.

Safety should be your first consideration when shopping for a cage. Many pet birds have become injured from the very thing that should make them feel safe....their cage. These injuries can range from minor toe abrasions to death from strangulation. Look at the overall cage construction and ask yourself the following list of questions.

* Is the cage knock down or welded?
* Are there screws, nuts, and bolts, used to hold the cage together?
* What type of material is used in the cage construction?
* What type of finish is used on the cage and how is it applied?

* Does the cage have any scroll work or other decorative features?
* What is the bar spacing?
* What is the diameter of the bars?
* How many crossbars are in the design?

* What shape is the cage?
* What are the dimensions of the cage?

* Are there swing out feeder doors?
* Is there a locking mechanism on all of the doors, including the feeder doors?
* Is there a litter tray?
* Is there a removable grid?
* Is there a seed guard?
* Is there a play top?


Safety- Consider the type of bird that will call the cage home. Knock down cages require assembly and may use hardware to hold the cage together. If so, find out what type of metal hardware is used in the cage construction. Also consider if your bird will have access to the hardware and whether he/she will be able to disassemble the hardware. Look for any pieces that could easily be removed. These pieces could accidently be swallowed by your pet bird. Solid welded cages are stronger, but it is possible that the welds can break over time.

The majority of cages are constructed from a variety of different metals that include: wire, stainless steel, zinc, brass, and chrome. Wire cages are the most economical and are often used as breeding cages and travel carriers. These cages are processed in two different ways. You have the choice of Galvanized after welded and Galvanized before welded. The cages are Galvanized to prevent the metal from rusting. Galvanized after welded is generally considered safer. The welds may expose hazardous metals that can cause metal poisoning. Most wire cage manufacturers recommend an initial cleaning using vinegar and a wire brush. Metal poisoning can occur if the metal or metal flakes are ingested. Clean and inspect wire cages regularly looking for broken welds, broken wires, and metal flakes.

Metal cages are in the medium price range. They are manufactured in a wide variety of metals, sizes, shapes, and colors. They are usually brass or chrome plated, or have a powdered coated paint finish. Powdered coated finishes are more resistant to chipping, rust, and are easier to clean than the plated cages The plating can wear off over time. Some of the cage manufacturers offer a textured finish which not only make chips and scratches less noticeable, but give a better footing for grasping and climbing.

Stainless steel is the most expensive cage on the market, but stainless steel is the safest material for cage construction. These cages will never rust, chip, or cause metal poisoning. They are easy to clean and they are strong enough for even the most powerful beaks. A stainless steel cage will last a lifetime and be the most economical when you consider that it will never need replacing.

Some decorative features enhance the appearance of the cage, but can pose a safety risk. Scroll work may trap beaks, heads or toes, resulting in minor injuries or death.

Bar spacing is equally important in preventing injuries and allowing for maximum climbing mobility. Make sure the bar spacing is smaller than your bird's head to prevent him/her from becoming trapped in the bars. Horizontal bars give greater climbing mobility for increased exercise and play. The diameters of the bars determine the strength of the bars. The bars should be stronger than your bird and they should be large enough to allow for easy gripping.

SIZE and shape is also an important factor when considering a cage. I generally recommend that you purchase the largest cage that your can afford and can accommodate space wise. At the very minimum, your bird should be able to comfortably extend both of his/her wings at the same time. Highly active birds such as: Lovebirds, Parrotlets, Caiques, etc., require a larger cage than their size would indicate. The cage should be large enough to hang a few toys and allow for active play such as climbing, swinging, hopping, jumping, etc.

The overall shape of the cage will determine how much actually usable space is available.With the exception of Macaws and other long tailed birds, the width of the cage is more important than the height. Use the inside width dimensions to determine the amount of usable space. Round or dome top cages can make placement of hanging toys more difficult.

COMPONENTS such as Swing out feeder doors offer a safe and convenient way to feed, especially for the aggressive bird and breeding pairs. Your bird sitter will also appreciate the added security. Most cages come with 2 feeding stations and two dishes. Several cages are manufactured with 3 to 4 feeding stations. Extra feeding stations will allow you to offer several different types of food at the same time. For added convenience, purchase an extra set of food dishes.

Food dishes come in a varity of styles, colors, shapes, and are made from plastic, ceramic, or stainless steel. Lock down feeder dishes will prevent your bird from dumping his/her dishes over. Some birds like to toss their seed out of their dish. Dish covers and hoods can help contain the mess and save on wasted seed.

The main entry door on your cage should be large enough to remove the bird with ease. Entry doors and feeder doors should have a locking mechanism that will prevent accidental escape. If your bird learns how to open the cage doors, then you will have to add some type of safety feature such as quick links or locks. Make sure the quick links and/or locks are inaccessible to your bird.

Removable grids and litter trays are other cage options. They are easier to clean than solid cage floors.They can also prevent your bird from getting to the old food on the bottom of the cage, provided the distance between the grid and the tray is greater than your bird can reach. It is amazing at how far they can stretch those legs.

Removable seed guards can also help contain the mess to the inside of the cage making clean up outside of the cage easier. Seed guards will also need to be cleaned regularly.

Play tops are a convenient way to give birds time out of the cage. They can save space and money by not having to purchase an additional playstand. Many of the play top cages have an extra litter tray for use on the play top to make clean up easier.

CLEANING the cage is an important aspect to maintaining the good health of your pet bird. Change the litter tray daily. Wash the entire cage and perches weekly (or more often if necessary) using a mild soap. Disinfect the cage monthly using a 10% bleach/water solution, or other commercial disinfectant, and rinse well.

Purchasing a new bird is an exciting time and shopping for all of the supplies can be fun. Consider all aspects of the cage construction and disign . Remember to consider safety first and your bird's cage will truly become his/her castle.

Selecting the right bird for you

Now that you have found a breeder or pet store to purchase a bird from, your next decision is to find that special bird for you and your family.

There are many factors to consider that will help you determine which species of bird is right for you. Your level of experience, budget, time commitments, environment, and personality are all key elements in choosing the right bird.

Parrots have long life expectencies ranging from 15 years for a cockatiel, to 70 to 100 years for larger parrots. Parrots form strong bonds with their owners. It can be very traumatic and stressful for them to be sold to another family. Be sure you can make the commitment before you purchase a parrot.

Remember that each bird is an individual and has his/her own unique personality. General species characteristics may not apply to individual birds.

EXPERIENCE

Have you previously owned a parrot?
Do you have other birds?
Have you done a lot of research on birds?
Do you know how to take proper care of the species you are considering?
Do you have an Avian vet?
Do you have other resources available to you?

Before you purchase a bird read as much material as you can on various species of birds. Research as many different species as possible. Talk to several breeders, pet stores, and avian vets to find out as much as you can on particular species of birds.

Make sure the place of business you are purchasing your bird from will answer all of your questions and is willing to continue to answer your questions long after the sale is made.

First time bird owners may want to start out with a smaller bird, such as a Cockatiel, Lovebird, Finch, Parakeet, or a Canary. Smaller birds may be less intimidating and easier to handle than their larger cousins. First time bird owners should purchase a bird that was handfed and well socialized. Birds who were handfed and handled as babies are usually tamer and friendlier than parent raised babies.

Conures, Quakers, and smaller African birds are usually the next bird purchase for people who have owned smaller birds. These birds are a little larger but are still easy to handle.

Macaws, Cockatoos, Amazons, and Greys require owners with previous experience in owning parrots as pets. These birds need a firm hand and new owners may find them intimidating.

Birds who have been abused, neglected, or have behavioral problems should be purchased by people who have a great deal of experience working with birds. These birds may require special care, taming, training, diets, environments, and handling.

BUDGET

How much can you afford to spend to purchase the bird?
How much can you afford to spend on a cage, toys, food,and other accessories?
How much can you afford to spend for the initial vet check up?
How much can you afford to spend on the on-going costs for emergency and annual vet care, food, toys, etc.?

Your budget is an important factor when deciding which bird to purchase. If you are on a limited budget you should keep that in mind when deciding which species of bird to purchase. Larger birds require larger budgets. In general, the bigger the bird, the more it will cost to maintain the bird.

TIME COMMITMENTS

How much free time do you have?
Do you travel often?
What is your daily routine?

If your daily schedule is very demanding then you should consider purchasing birds that do not require a great deal of time to take care of and socialize, such as Finches and Canaries. Parrots need to have time out of the cage each day to interact with their family.

If your job requires out of town travel, than you need to consider whether you have someone who can expertly take care of your bird during your absence. Parrots can become stressed and lonely when their families are absent which may lead to behavioral problems. Frequent travelers who cannot take parrots with them should consider this before purchasing a parrot.

Make sure your routine will allow for daily food preparation, cage cleaning, and playtime. Parrots are intelligent social creatures who need daily interaction with their owners, fresh fruits & veggies, and a clean cage. Have plenty of toys available for independent playtime to keep those beaks busy and in good condition.

ENVIRONMENT

How much room do you have for a cage, playstand, and accessories?
Do you have other pets?
Do you have young children?
What type of building do you live in?
How much noise can you, and other family members, and neighbors become accustomed to?

I always suggest purchasing the largest cage that your budget and space will allow for. Make sure you can adequately house the species of bird that you are considering to purchase. Playstands and other accessories will also take up space. Cages should be placed in an area of the home where the bird can interact with the family. Artificial full spectrum lighting should be installed if natural light is not available.

There are many multiple pet households, but you have to consider whether existing pets and a new bird can co-exist safely and happily. Multiple pet households must be able to keep their pets separate and supervise their pets at all times.

Young children and parrots may not get along. Children can be loud and their quick movements can startle birds and make them nervous. Birds and children can also become jealous of each other. If you have young rambunctious children then you may want to consider waiting until the children are a little older before you purchase a parrot.

Your residence may determine which species of bird to purchase. Apartment and Condo dwellers may want to purchase birds who are known to be less noisy, such as Lovebirds, Cockatiels, Finches, Canaries, PYRRHURA Conures, and Lories. The purchase of a bird is a life long commitment and you will want to avoid any potential problems with your neighbors which could result in having to find a new home for your pet.

Aratinga Conures, Cockatoos, and Macaws can be quite loud with their daily chattering and screaming rituals. When you are visiting pet stores and breeders be sure to listen to the birds vocalizing. Are the sounds music to your ears or annoying interruptions? Birds vocalize to communicate and you should expect and be able to tolerate a fair amount of chattering and screaming from a pet bird.

Birds can be quite messy. If seed and droppings on the floor, and daily sweeping/vacuuming will be troublesome for you, then you should reconsider whether a bird is the right pet for your household.

Birds have delicate respiratory systems. They need to be housed in pollution free environments. Cigarette and cigar smoke can cause lung cancer in birds. Air fresheners, pesticides, non-stick coating pots and appliances, cleaning solutions, and other fumes can kill a bird instantly or from long term exposure. Hepa air filters will help your bird breath easier but you should not depend on them to remove all hazardous fumes. If you can't live without your air fresheners, cigarettes, and non-stick cookware then do NOT purchase a bird.

SPECIES PERSONALITY

What are your expectations?
Do you want an affectionate bird?
Do you want a more independent Bird?

Certain species of birds are generally known for certain personality traits. Please remember that there are always exceptions and birds are individuals. Early socialization, training, discipline, and whether the bird was handfed (and the method of handfeeding) also contribute to the birds personality.

Finches and Canaries are relatively small so they don't require as much space as larger birds. They are also quieter than larger parrots. The song of a male Canary is quite delightful. These birds generally do not require much handling.

Parakeets are a popular first time bird. Their small size, gentleness, price, and talking ability make them desirable for beginners.

Lovebirds and Parrotlets are the smallest two species of parrots. They have big bird personality in a diminutive size. They require a larger size cage than you would expect. They are quite playful and enjoy daily interaction and handling. They may also learn to speak a few words. Lovebirds are full of energy and can become a bit nippy. .

Cockatiels make wonderful first time pets. They are gentle, affectionate, and playful. They are a little larger than Lovebirds and Parakeets. They enjoy whistling and males can learn to speak. Handfed babies are readily available. These birds are hardy and breed quite well which make them ideal pets for the beginner.

Conures are usually the next step up from a small bird. Aratinga conures can be quite noisy and some people may find the pitch of their screams annoying. The Pyrrhura family are notably quieter. Conures are quite playful and many Conure owners have been startled by their birds laying on their backs on the bottom of the cage. They enjoy being handled by their owners and head scratches are greatly appreciated. Most can learn to speak a few words in a gravely type of voice. Blue Crowns have the best potential for speech.

African Greys are highly intelligent birds who are very sensitive to their environment. They are not for people with little or no experience in bird keeping. They are very desirable as pets due to their uncanny speaking ability. They can mimic household sounds so well that they fool their owners regularly. Greys like routine and sudden changes can cause them to become stressed. They need to have time out of the cage each day and interaction with the family on a daily basis. Greys have the tendency to bond with only one family member unless they are handled frequently by all of the members of the family.

Amazons are another species of bird noted for their ability to talk, sing, whistle, and mimic household sounds. They are basically green in color which makes identification difficult for the novice. They make excellent pets for the experienced bird owner, but they tend to bond with one family member. They are playful and they enjoy interacting with their owners, but they can be quite noisy with their ear shattering screams, which may irritate other family members and neighbors.

Cockatoos are very affectionate and can be very demanding of their owners time. Cockatoos need experienced owners that can deliver a firm hand. They can be quite loud with ear shattering screams. They are strong chewers and require a constant supply of objects to chew otherwise your furniture is fair game. They require a large, strong, escape proof cage. Most Cockatoo owners find they have to purchase locks for their bird's cage to keep them from escaping. Cockatoos really enjoy daily showers and grooming. The hardest part of owning a Cockatoo is trying not to spoil them. They prefer to be with their owners 24 hours a day.

Macaws are one of the most colorful species of parrots. The mini Macaws are very playful, smart, and do enjoy spending time in the lap of their owners. The larger Macaws are definitely for the most experienced bird owner. Their massive beaks and large size can be quite intimidating for the beginner. They need to be handled with gentle guidance and a firm hand. They need an extra large cage with plenty of perches and toys to chew. Their screams will be heard throughout your entire neighborhood.

Before you decide on which species of bird to purchase you need to consider all aspects of bird ownership. Owning a pet parrot can be fun and rewarding but the bird's welfare has to be taken into consideration. Choose your bird carefully and do not make an emotional decision.

Adopting an older parrot

Statics show that the average parrot may have up to 7 owners in his/her lifetime. Due to changing circumstances in their lives, some parrot owners may need to look for new homes for their pet birds. Some of the more common reasons pet birds are offered for sale are: a change in the family such as divorce or the addition of a new human baby, or the bird has not lived up to the owner expectations and they find the noise, the mess, and time commitment overwhelming. Also parrots may live between 70 to 100 years and thus outlive their owners.

Adopting an older bird can be both challenging and rewarding. So, is adopting a previously owned bird the right choice for you? There are many different aspects that you need to consider before you make the decision to purchase someone else's pet bird.

Your first consideration is to determine whether you can make the commitment to give the bird a permanent home and that you have the time to socialize and care for the bird . Many of these birds may have had more than one previous owner, some may not have been tamed and/or trained, and some have even been neglected or abused or have developed behavioral problems such as screaming, biting, or feather picking. Then, you have to determine whether you have the knowledge, experience, and/or have the resources to take care of the bird and give him/her a safe and healthy environment to live it.

Purchasing an older bird may have a few advantages. Some of these birds may already be trained and very friendly. Usually pet birds are offered for sale at prices less than the cost of a handfed baby. Investigate the background of the bird that you are considering to purchase. Gather as much information as you can on the previous owners, the birds diet, medical history, age, whether it was handfeed or imported, the breeding history if applicable, and personality traits. It may be difficult to trace the previous owners if there are more than a few. If the bird is banded or microchipped you may be able to find the original owner or breeder. Use all of the information that you have gathered to determine whether it is the right bird for you.

Your expectations should be realistic. Some older birds may have behavioral problems such as biting, screaming, or feather picking, and these problems may be the reason that the bird is up for sale. Sometimes these problems diminish or disappear with a change in environment but often they stay the same or the behavioral problems could even get worse. Make sure you have the available resources to handle any behavioral problems that may arise.

Patience is a standard requirement for anyone considering the purchase of an older bird. Some previously owned birds may bond instantly while others may take months. Each bird has his/her own individual personality and should be treated accordingly. Some of these birds may have been neglected by uncaring owners because of ignorance and even worse....ABUSE. Birds raised under these conditions may require more even care and time to adjust.

When you bring your new bird home be sure to place the cage in a quiet area of the house for a minimum quarantine period of 90 days. Be sure to follow strict quarantine procedures if you already have the other birds. Have a complete medical check-up performed on the new bird as soon as possible by an Avian Certified Veterinarian. During the initial medical exam, give the vet all of the background information that you have on the bird. Throughout the entire quarantine period you need to monitor your birds weight daily, and observe him/her closely looking for signs or illness and stress. Moving to a new home can be more stressful for an older bird, so try and duplicate his/her old diet and routine if possible. Having some familiar belongings such as his old cage, favorite treats, and toys may help comfort him/her during the transition period. Some signs of stress are loose watery droppings, shivering, heavy breathing, fluffed feathers, lack of vocalizations, poor appetite, and lethargy. These symptoms should disappear in a few days. Many of these symptoms can be signs of more serious medical conditions so close observation is imperative.

Building a trusting relationship may take longer with an older bird. Some birds will adapt rather quickly to their new environment while other birds may take a few months to adjust.. Older birds can form strong bonds with their owners if given the time to trust their new owners. Proceed slowly, while always keeping the bird's comfort level in mind. Approach the cage slowly, hand at your side or behind your back, and speak softly. Sitting on the floor will help the bird to feel less threatened. Allow the bird to determine how fast the relationship will develop. Don't force your bird into interacting with you. It will only delay the bonding process because he may fear you and not trust you.

Taming, training, or behavior modification may be necessary for certain birds. Begin training after your bird has become comfortable with you and his/her new home. Before you begin training or taming, be sure to keep your new bird's wings clipped. In addition to the safety aspect, birds with unclipped wings can have an attitude of superiority to their human companions which can make taming and training more difficult. Teaching the "step up" and "down commands" are a must for all untrained birds Be consistent in setting limits of acceptable behaviors, and use positive reinforcement to encourage desirable behaviors. Reward good behavior with head scratches, favorite treats, and praise. Ignore unwanted behaviors and don't reinforce negative behaviors.

Some older birds may require changes in their diet. Dietary changes should be made gradually, to ensure that your bird is eating enough to maintain weight. New foods may not be readily accepted so continue to offer them even if your bird refuses to eat them. Eventually, your bird will begin to eat more nutritious foods so don't give up.

Birds with physical handicaps can make wonderful pets. These birds deserve loving caring homes too. Most physical handicaps can be accommodate with custom designed cages, toys, and/or special diets.

Adopting an older bird may initially require more time, work, and patience but it is well worth the work. You can form a lasting bond as strong as you would with a handfed baby. So don't overlook the purchase of an adult bird.