Acclimating New Birds

Now that my services have expanded into the "matchmaking" business, It dawned on me that we need to talk about the transition of a bird moving to a new home, whether a hand fed baby just adopted to a new home or an older bird going to a second home. This is a stressful time for any bird, but you can help lessen the strife and make the move easier for both your new bird and the rest of the family.

Good planning ahead of time is essential. A pet parrot should NEVER be an impulse buy. Adopting a companion parrot is just that - ADOPTING a new family member - they're not used cars to be traded in when you get bored! They are living, feeling, sensitive beings who should always be considered PERMANENT additions to the family. I'll never forget the first local bird expo I went to after moving to the Northwest. It was winter - cold and rainy, and I saw a person after person exiting the expo, each with a tiny baby African Grey tucked under their coats. There was a vendor inside with lots of cute baby Grays and a cheap price - apparently, many folks couldn't resist. Since no one seemed to have brought a carrier, it didn't seem to me that these were "planned" purchases, but rather spur of the moment purchases. I wonder how many went home to a nice cage, all set up with new toys and the proper diet? Not many, I'll bet. It's a deadly combo - cute, cheap, and baby! I'll bet not too many folks had done their homework either, studying up on African Greys and bird care in general.

The other common scenario is the "petshop rescue" - the pitiful bird at some pet store that knows nothing about birds - there he is, in a tiny cage, eating sunflower seeds, no toys, tucked in between the hamsters and the snakes, while the resident shop cat climbs freely through the store. So, on a whim, you take him home.

So, whether it's the irresistible baby, the sad ill cared for rescue, or an actual well thought out carefully chosen new addition - there he is, coming in your front door, hoping to spend the rest of his life with you, his ever loving devoted family!! So how do we transition from scared outsider to contented feathered child?

First, be prepared. Have the cage, toys, and food all set up prior to his arrival so he can slide right in and not have to stand by while everyone scrambles around, frantically searching for bird stuff. Normally, we advise putting a bird's cage in the busiest part of the house, where he can be the center of attention. But new birds need some space, quiet and privacy during the settling in process, so find him a comfortable safe corner where he can observe, but at a distance. Of course, he should have made a trip to the vet first thing and quarantining him for at least one month away from any other birds is always recommended. So this may not be his permanent location, but rather serve as a "pit-stop" in the beginning. You may want to partially cover his cage, draping a towel over the back and one side to help him feel safe. If possible, have some of his previous diet to mix in with the new (wonderful) cuisine you'll be serving.

Find out as much as possible about, not only his diet, but preference in toys, play time, bed time, and daily routine. Keeping some consistency helps for a smoother transitional time. Radical changes don't agree with many parrots, so go slow. Introduce him to every family member, but avoid anyone doing too much "hands on" stuff in the beginning. Rather, spend time just sitting by him, talking to him and offering some treats by hand. Don't force him or expect instant love. Work on building trust with "step-ups". Play "The Towel Game" to have interactive fun, as well as aiding future needs for handling by a vet or groomer.

Put your new guy on a regular schedule. Feed him lots of fresh veggies and nice warm cooked grains and legumes. Warm food is "comfort food" and helps strengthen the bond when fed by hand. Share some family dinner with him, preferably on a stand by the dining table. Watch TV together and preen his head feathers for him while you hang out on the couch. Include him in lots of family activities to help him feel a part of the flock. If everyone is gone to work or school during the day, leave a radio or TV on and make sure he's got plenty of interesting toys that provide both chewing exercise and mental stimulation. Talk to him before leaving, tell him he's okay and reassure him that you'll be back. When you do return give him a warm hello and a big hug. If you do have other birds, try to maintain the flock order. It won't help him relax if the other birds are resentful of all the attention the new guy gets. Always address your primary bird first - first one out, first one kissed, first one fed, etc. Don't allow the birds to get together until you're sure everyone gets along. First time together, it's helpful if it's on a neutral new stand that no one is territorial about. If you expect the two to ultimately share a cage, remember that will take time and patience - you don't want the new guy intimidated by an overbearing dominant "resident" who thinks he runs the place.

An important point to remember - don't make the mistake of totally doting on the bird at first, then ignoring him after the novelty wears off. He'll definitely need extra attention in the beginning, but try to maintain a balance from the start, to avoid rebound problems down the road. So be prepared, go slow, build trust, and have fun getting to know each other. This is the beginning of a beautiful lifelong friendship.

by Marilu Anderson, Bird Nutrition and Behavior Counselor
Phone: (503) 771-BIRD

What's That Bird Cage Made Of?

There are currently no standards regarding construction of bird cages for pet birds. Whether the cage is intended for small or large companion birds, the materials used for construction are as different as the designs themselves. The variability of materials is more extreme in smaller bird cages where cost is more often a primary consideration, and fewer demands are placed on the structural integrity of the cage. Large psittacines require greater tensile strength in cage components due to the extreme force these birds can exert with their beaks. The need for greater tensile strength usually translates into more costly materials and a more predictable product.

Components and Manufacturing Techniques for Indoor Birdcages

One of the most common materials used to make bird cages is steel. Steel is composed of iron and carbon and, if left untreated, oxidizes very easily. Grades of steel differ primarily in purity, varying in carbon or other alloy content. Higher grades of steel are typically subjected to heating processes that result in a tempered product with a smoother finish. Wrought iron and cold rolled steel are similar types of carbon steel, with wrought iron having a less finished surface and rougher texture, and cold rolled steel having a more finished, smoother surface. Hot rolled steel is subjected to additional heating processes that result in an even smoother finish. Regardless of how the carbon steel is produced, it must be finished with an anticorrosive material to prevent oxidation.

The best way to prevent corrosion and add tensile strength to steel is to add the elements chromium and nickel, producing stainless steel (S/S). Stainless steel cages have become extremely popular in the last few years as consumers demanded safer, longer lasting, and more beautiful enclosures. Stainless steel cages are designed to last for 50 years. If designed well, they provide a safe, secure, beautiful, and easy to maintain enclosure. The high cost of these enclosures reflects the increased costs of raw materials and more labor intensive construction techniques. Stainless steel cages are most commonly used to house larger psittacine species. They are particularly well suited for large macaws and cockatoos which are capable of dismantling inferior materials. Stainless steel cages have also become popular for many medium sized birds. Even though these birds usually do not test the structural integrity of the enclosure, stainless steel cages provides a safe, lasting, easy to maintain environment for pet birds.

Powder coating is a technique commonly used to prevent corrosion of steel. It provides a durable finish that helps protect steel components. Powder coating involves the electrostatic application of a specialized paint, followed by high temperature baking. The finished product is versatile and attractive. Although originally designed for lawn furniture, this technique caught on in bird cage production. Some of the original powder coating formulas contained high levels of zinc to harden the finish and speed curing time. Most formulas currently in use have eliminated the need for zinc. Variability in paint formulas and application processes will affect the finished product and can result in chipping, peeling, and corrosion. Most cages commercially available today for medium and large psittacines species are powder coated steel. These cages, if properly manufactured, will provide decades of service and functional, safe, beautiful enclosures. Recent market trends show a rising demand for powder coated cages for smaller birds like budgerigars, cockatiels, and lovebirds.

While powder coated steel is the safest type of painted cage, some manufacturers sell powder coated galvanized wire cages as an inexpensive alternative. These cages pose an increased risk of zinc consumption. In many cases this is due to the fact that proper preparation for powder coating involves some roughening of the surface to be painted. This roughening can pit the galvanized surface and result in irregularities. Powder coating often adheres poorly to slick galvanized surfaces and can quickly peel and flake. The paint flakes can contain high levels of zinc, which has leached from the galvanizing into the powder coating. Pet birds intent on cage chewing can quickly ingest toxic levels of zinc and/or lead which is a common industrial contaminant of some galvanized wire (see below). Unfortunately, most owners who purchase these cages are unaware that they are buying an inferior product.

While stainless or powder coated steel cages are ideal, less expensive methods of preventing corrosion are commonly used in bird cages designed for smaller psittacines, whose owners tend to be more cost conscious. The most commonly used method involves electro-plating steel wire with an inexpensive metal to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Zinc is probably the most commonly used metal for electroplating. Some manufacturers will layer different metals over the steel to achieve the desired result. The resulting wire is usually a shiny silver color but can also be shiny gold. Most electroplated finishes contain at least some zinc. An informal survey of commercially available cages (8 randomly chosen) for smaller parrots revealed zinc levels in the plating from .5% to 42%. Electrostatically applied plating is unlikely to be consumed by a bird as long as the finish is smooth. However, once the cage shows signs of oxidation, pitting, loss of sheen, or white rust, the cage poses unacceptable risk of zinc ingestion, and should be replaced. Cage grates are likely to show degenerative changes first because of the constant exposure to droppings and food waste. Oxidation of these surfaces often result in deposits of elemental zinc. These deposits appear as white burrs or pits. These imperfections can draw the attention of birds. When removed and ingested by birds, these deposits can result in potentially dangerous zinc exposures. Birds that develop behaviors involving chewing, mouthing, or biting the cage are at increased risk and would be safer in a zinc free enclosure.

Another inexpensive method of preventing oxidation involves coating steel or galvanized wire with plastic or vinyl. While these coatings do protect wire from oxidation, they can be easily removed by busy birds. Plastic and vinyl coatings often degrade quickly and flake off the underlying wire. As lead is a common ingredient of plastic and vinyl, pieces of coating ingested by birds can expose the bird to toxic metals. In addition, ingested coating can act as a gastrointestinal irritant, regardless of its metal content. When a vinyl or plastic coating is used over galvanized wire, there is the added risk of zinc ingestion if the wire is chewed on and eaten.

Galvanizing is the process of coating steel wire with zinc by dipping it into molten zinc. This method is the least expensive way of preventing corrosion of steel wire. Galvanized wire can be distinguished from plated wire in that it is a dull gray, rather than a shiny silver. There are two primary types of galvanized wire commercially available. Wire galvanized prior to welding is commonly produced in the Unites States. Wire galvanized after welding is a process more typical of production in United Kingdom, Europe and Asia. Regardless of when the zinc is applied, the welds in most galvanized wire are electrostatic and contain no additional metals. Lead is a common manufacturing contaminant of some galvanizing processes and will obviously increase the risk of problems if consumed. Using higher grades of wire will minimize the risk of lead exposure.

Galvanized cages are the least expensive bird enclosures available, and are often manufactured in large sizes suitable for flight. They are also light and easy to move. Unfortunately the behavior characteristics of many birds include picking at, chewing, and ingesting anything available. For these birds a galvanized cage can pose a huge risk of zinc intoxication. The number of birds adversely affected by these cages is likely under-reported because thorough diagnostics are often not run. The toxic potential of zinc ingestion has been proven but much remains unknown about the impact of chronic, non lethal exposure.1,2,3 In fact, the biologic mechanisms of lethal exposures remain poorly defined.

Properly finishing galvanized wire eliminates blebs and imperfections, making the cage less inviting to chew. Excess material at welds creates easily removable pieces of elemental zinc. If ingested, these pieces can contribute to disease. Wire that is galvanized after welding usually has a smoother surface, and therefore becomes the preferred wire for aviculture. New galvanized wire is often coated with a petroleum based protective oil. If not washed off prior to use, and if ingested, this oil can pose additional health risks. Sheffield Manufacturing, producers of Tinsley Wire, requires that rolls of wire be sold with a warning label advising of the risk of zinc ingestion, of the need to prepare the wire for usage by removing any residues of oil, and of the need to use a soft brush to remove any tags of material. 4

Many aviculturists mistakenly think that treating galvanized wire with a vinegar wash will remove any risk of zinc ingestion. While vinegar will dissolve small, oxidized deposits and hasten their removal with a soft brush, vinegar will not remove the zinc coating from the wire.

Acrylic cages have appeared on the market as an alternative to traditional metal wire cages. They certainly offer the advantage of using safe, relatively inexpensive materials and many bird owners find them appealing. Certainly they have distinct advantages for debris containment. However, this same property gives rise to problems with air quality and ventilation. Some have additional built in air cleaners to address air quality problems. Whereas these cages may be suitable at moderate temperatures, the small airspace could become overheated at warmer temperatures.

Kids, Family, and Birds!

In todays world almost every family with kids has a family pet. Whatever pet it may be, it becomes just like another child or family member. Birds are commonly among these family pets, especially budgies and cockatiels. Any family that mixes birds and kids has a few extra things to consider that they never may have thought of!

A Bird as a Family Pet: the Pros and Cons

Lets start with the bad part of mixing children with birds. Birds, being fragile creatures, obviously can't put up with any rough housing and big hugs such as a dog or cat might. However, if kids are properly taught how to handle feathered friends gently this may never pose a problem. Secondly birds can be stubborn and sometimes not very friendly, and children need to understand this before they're allowed to handle them. In the first months of a bird living in the house, it should be handled and tamed by an older individual before interacting with younger family members.

Now for the good! Birds are hardy and fairly easy to care for, making them great pets for teaching responsibility to kids. Birds are also very social creatures that enjoy company and interaction with their flock (whether it is people or other birds). Interacting with birds can make a great activity that the entire family can participate in.

Bird Breeds That Are Best for a Family

Depending on how much the family plans to interact with their birds, there are a few bird breed common to families with kids. The most common of these would be budgies and cockatiels. Both of these birds are good for first birds and children's pets, as they are hardy and once tamed can become very affectionate. There are a few differences as always between the two breeds, as budgies are sometimes more difficult to tame and cockatiels commonly learn to speak more easily.

Other breeds sometimes owned by families include finches and lovebirds. Finches are nice to look at, fun to watch and easy to care for but aren't the best for families interested in taming their birds. Lovebirds are on the other side of the spectrum: they need an abundance of attention, especially if you decide only to purchase a single bird. Contrary to popular belief lovebirds don't require a mate; however they are very social and need daily attention and interaction with family.

Always keep in mind that larger birds might not be the best for children. They have stronger beaks and claws that can cause a lot more damage, and are best suited as pets for experienced bird persons. When choosing the breed of bird for your family, do a lot of research on the breeds you are interested in by taking a trip to the library and checking out some breed specific books.

Helping Children Care For Birds

However responsible they may be, younger children shouldn't be in full responsibility of a bird. They should be encouraged to do a lot of their own research on the care and handling of a bird, but the parent(s) should also do plenty of research on their own. Always make sure that children know what they're doing when feeding, handling, and caring for their birds and try to supervise this as much as possible. Birds are small creatures that are sensitive, and a mistake made in their care can be a serious problem. However with proper supervision and a bit of luck, a bird could be your family's next perfect family pet!

Flock Behavior: How It Affects Our Parrots

An often-made mistake by behavior experts and other experienced bird-keepers is to consider all parrots’ behavior as the same, having the same roots and causes. By that thinking, all species react the same to any stimuli. However, we know this is not true. For instance, African Grey parrots have very different social patterns and behaviors than Amazons. Even among the same genus, different species can have very different social needs and behaviors.

THE INCORRECT COMPARISON TO DOGS AND CATS

Sometimes it’s all too easy to compare parrots as we do our dogs and cats. Domestic dogs are different breeds within the same canine species. Likewise, domestic cats are merely different breeds within the species feline. However, parrots comprise many different species within the hook bill or psitticine genus. Therefore, there’s a big difference between the behavior of individual parrot species and that of dog or cat breeds. Even the behavior within a flock of wild parrots varies greatly between the species. According to ornithologists, there are two kinds of flocks in the psitticine world---- multi-species and single-species flocks.

MULTI-SPECIES AND SINGLE-SPECIES FLOCKS

A group of birds are described as a flock when they: 1) fly at the same speed and 2) forage together at the same feeding grounds. This includes flocks where there are more than one species......called multi-species flocks. Multi-species flocks are often found in South America, where a flock of parrots may include several Macaw species, Amazons, Conures and more. They also are seen in Australia, where Greater Sulfur-crested, Galahs (Rose-breasted) and Corellas are often seen flying and eating together.

SINGLE-SPECIES flocks are a group of the same species only, such as African Grey Parrots. They allow no other species to co-mingle with their flock.

Why do we care about who and what makes up a flock of wild parrots? We care because the social structure and behavior of those wild parrots is very dependent upon the type of flock to which the parrots belong. For survival purposes that social structure is hard-wired (instinctive) behavior within parrot genes. That same instinctive behavior establishes the patterns we see with our hand-fed companion parrot behaviors.

For instance, many African Grey Parrots do not tolerate new additions to the parrot family, especially when they are the first bird. As first bird it appears that they instinctively establish themselves and their human flock as if it were a single-species African Grey flock, where a bird of another species would not be welcomed. Try bringing an Amazon home to a now territorial Grey Parrot. Even other African species, such as Poicephalus or Lovebirds, are enough to bring a dark cloud over the African Grey’s house. However, those of you with different Macaw and Amazon species in the same house often see a very different perspective----- a happy, chattering multi-species flock, just like in the wild. Multi-species flock birds are definitely more accepting of other species than are single-species flock birds.

MULTI-SPECIES FLOCKS
Why are there multi-species flocks? Why doesn’t every individual species have its own flock, as do the African parrots?

In South America, there are many species confined to a relatively small area. Competition for nest holes and foraging grounds is great. Apparently, parrots have found the best way to locate a nest hole or feeding ground is by FOLLOWING THE CROWD. Therefore, we see a variety of species within a single flock of New World parrots.

Another consideration for South American parrots is that the scarcity of nest holes limits the numbers produced of any one species. This means there are no huge flocks of Amazons and Macaws that might band together for protection against predators. Instead, they must rely on the numbers brought about through mingling several different species together.

We all know how noisy some South American parrots can be. I’ve always felt this was partly due to the different species inhabiting a flock. If you were a Conure living among Amazons and Macaws, you just might develop a loud voice to be heard by your mate above the dim of the other species’ calls.

Parrots vocalize for a reason. They sound off to call a mate with a contact call. They send alarm calls of impending danger. They call their mates to food sources. Do they care about other species within a multi-species flock? Probably not, since their own species is what they are genetically programmed to preserve. Therefore, they must be loud to be heard. Plus, finding your mate in a large flock of several different and brightly colored species is no mean feat. We, as the human caregivers, should realize that vocalization is a critical factor with certain species and treat it with due respect. Is that Conure really screaming, or is he raising his voice in a natural manner to bring you over to him and away from the strange human with whom you were having a discussion?

African Greys, on the other hand, have no need to be heard above other species. They all speak the same flock dialect. For that reason, Greys often are considered quieter parrots than some of those species from multi-species flocks. Pionus are another example of single-species flock birds that are known as QUIET parrots. Unlike some of their other South American cousins, Pionus are single-species flock birds.

STABLE PERSONALITIES

Individual species personalities within multi-species flocks tend to be more stable than many of the single-species flock parrots. For instance, how many people have heard of a phobic Amazon? Feather mutilation among Conures and Macaws for reasons other than physical causes is rare, while much more often seen as behavior-based with African Grey Parrots, several Poicephalus species and those Cockatoo species that flock by themselves. My own belief regarding the stability of many domesticated South American parrots is that they naturally raise their young in the wild to become individual flock members at a younger age than do many of the single-species flock birds. This may be a necessity due to the lack of large numbers of their own species within a flock, or that multi-species flock dynamics are not suitable for extended parent or family group instruction.

For instance, a Yellow-headed Amazon might be hard-wired (instinctive behavior) to leave its parents and join the flock sooner than would an African Grey juvenile. In our domestic situations, where parrot species are often handled as if they were all the same, breeders often wean Amazons and African Greys on the same schedule.....a big mistake.

Researchers have recorded that Greys appear to stay with their FAMILY GROUP within the flock much longer than do some multi-species flock birds, such as Amazon parrots. This later independence factor may account for the extreme sensitivity and lack of confidence we often see in domestically bred African Grey Parrots. Phobic behavior, while seldom a problem with Amazons, is all too prevalent in African Greys.

SINGLE-SPECIES FLOCKS
African Greys are a good example of single-species flock birds. There are only Greys within their flock. Observations made in the mid-1990's in Africa by Dr. Irene Pepperberg’s student, Diana May, showed Grey Parrots in many separate groups of five or six birds within flocks consisting of hundreds of Greys. This observation presents a possibility that African Greys may have a longer maturation period, where juveniles stay in FAMILY GROUPS for as long as several years, before going into the flock to find a mate.

Should that be the case, it would explain why Grey Parrots often change their bond from the human who took care of them as juveniles to someone else in the family when the bird is between two and three years old. In order to keep the species gene pool strong and prevent inbreeding, a wild parrot would have to reject its family group and find a mate elsewhere within the flock; therefore, they reject the initial primary caregiver (who represents a ‘parent’) and pair-bond with someone else in the family (flock).

Like the single-species African Grey Parrot with its family group structure, the Rose-breasted Cockatoo has a crèche system of raising and socializing its young. As the chicks fledge, they go to what some refer to as a ‘nursery tree.’ There they receive associated learning (socialization) from older Galahs, until they are educated enough and old enough to become independent flock members.

According to Sam Foster, Galahs are now found nearly throughout Australia, and they are one of the few species that have adapted successfully to changes in their natural habitats due to man’s intervention. Therefore, they may or may not have always been multi-flock birds. If this is not the case, they have joined and have been accepted by, other species, such as the Great Sulphur and Corella, in order to survive in certain areas.

The above are two examples of ‘continuing education’ that we do not see and isn’t practical within a multi-species flock, such as the South American parrots. These same two examples are also two of our more troubled species, as far as insecurity behavior problems, such as phobias and feather mutilation. From a behavior viewpoint, we may not be providing the necessary associative learning with our hand-raised Greys and Galahs that wild birds receive in their specialized environments.

PREDATORS
Both African Greys and Galahs are part-time ground feeders, something that, due to dangers from ground predators, requires a strong flock bond. It also requires that all of the birds look alike, so that an overhead predator (hawk) doesn’t see individual birds— just a continuous gray mass. Flying predators don’t like to take a victim from a flock where the predator cannot distinguish individual birds. If it did it would ruin the risk of breaking its own wing should it hit an object other than its individual prey. Single-species flocks can afford to feed on the ground because they all are the same color and blend together easily.

ACCEPTANCE OF OTHER SPECIES---- ONE PERSON BIRDS
I believe that company is a great preventative factor for behavior problems. In the case of multi-species flock birds, adding another bird or two to the room seems to keep everyone happy when the human flock is not present. However, this is not the case with a single African Grey parrot in a household. Bring another bird into that house and it’s as if the cloud of doom descended over the house. Other species are usually not allowed within this single-species flock animal’s domain. It may take weeks or months before the Grey is reasonably comfortable with the new bird and that bird’s cage had better be well out of the Grey’s perceived territory. However, put a mirror in a Grey’s cage and it will be happy for hours, while the human flock-member is at work. A mirror is, to the Grey, like having another of their own species with them......one without an attitude.

You might ask, why then do single-species flock birds accept we humans as ‘flock members?’ When we hand-raise them and they associate food from our hands to their beaks, we become part of the flock. Wild Grey Parrots have, in the past when they were imported, the ability to become our close friends simply because their parents taught them who are birds and who are not. I have also seen African Greys that were hand-reared with Cockatoos and did accept the white birds as flock members, even to the point where the Greys over-preened their own feathers, attempting to imitate the vigorous grooming techniques of the Cockatoos.

TERRITORIALISM
I believe you see far more territorial aggression from single-species flock birds than from multi-species flock birds, with the exception of mating season when competition for nest holes makes some species extremely aggressive. Again, this may be because other species are instinctively not allowed within a flock of African Greys, for instance. Within our homes, where you might have an Amazon climbing over Macaw’s cage with no hostility from either side, many Greys will not allow another species to set foot on their cages. Often just separating the cages by placing them at opposite corners of a room gives the Grey enough breathing room that he accepts the presence of the other parrot in the room.

If we are to learn to live compatibly with our feathered friends, we are going to have to learn more about them. They are not going to adjust their behavior to what they perceive in us. It doesn’t work that way. We are the ones who have raised them in an unnatural manner and keep them in an unnatural them in an unnatural environment. Our responsibility is to make their social lives as close to natural for each species as possible. When we do not do that the result is a confused, unhappy bird with what we call behavior problems.

Bird Cage Territoriality

Guarding One's Turf

This behavior is called cage territoriality or cage dominance, and like many (most?) of the behaviors we see in captive parrots, it has a foundation in instinct. In the wild, a parrot must protect its territory from invasion not only by predators but also other parrots. Dr. Charles Munn, in his National Geographic article on macaws in the Peruvian Amazon ("Macaws: Winged Rainbows", Jan. 94), comments that "a contributing factor in the macaws' low reproduction rate [in the wild] is an acute housing shortage." An unprotected nest is often subject to a hostile takeover by another pair of parrots eager to start a family. So guarding one's territory is necessary to successfully raise a family and therefore fulfill the Prime Directive of propagating one's own species. John's parrot didn't exhibit this behavior before, because it was just a baby.

In working with clients, I like to use as an example the behavior of a pair of mockingbirds who made it on the news several times a couple of years ago. (It must have been a slow news week.) These birds had built a nest in a parking garage and they were dive bombing any humans who dared try to retrieve their cars. After describing the situation, I then point out just how small a mockingbird actually is [about 10" from beak to tail] compared to the size of a human. To say the least, this is a formidable instinctive drive!



Aberrant Behavior

In captivity we often see territorial behaviors that have become excessive, with the bird driving off not just strangers but other members of the household (other flock members) and even the person with whom the parrot is most bonded -- the equivalent of the bird driving its own mate away from the nest. Obviously, this is a serious behavior problem, which will seriously threaten the animal’s pet potential if allowed to go unchecked. It is also extremely common.

Some people feel that a pet parrot should be allowed this territorial behavior -- that its cage is its very own special place and it should be allowed to do as it pleases within that area. I emphatically do not agree.

Just as a human child should be allowed privacy in their own room, I feel a parrot should be allowed to have its moods -- and sometimes it will simply not be in the mood to interact with its human – it is playing happily by itself, it for example, or pondering a particularly tough concept of astral physics. An experienced parrot owner knows when their bird is not in the mood by simply watching its body language, and he/ she respects the bird's privacy and does not approach during these times.

However, privacy notwithstanding, I don't feel it is acceptable for a small child to be allowed to ban parents from his/her room -- nor do I think a pet parrot should be allowed to refuse their human flock entry into its "room" -- which is what John's parrot is doing.

If a person has a pair of breeding birds, that is a different story -- I would liken that to having a grown child visiting his parents with his wife -- at which point the rules change. In that case, I think the young adult's room should be private with the parents entering by invitation only.

Establishing Nurturing Dominance

A pet parrot that is excessively territorial is a bird who has been allowed to believe it outranks the humans in its flock, and is therefore, ordering these humans around. To get this little tyrant under control, the humans must establish a relationship of nurturing dominance or guidance (a la Sally Blanchard) by teaching the bird the commands of "up" and "down" to put controls on the bird's behavior. This simple and incredibly effective training technique was explained in detail in a separate article ("Nurturing Dominance: What It Is and How To Establish It").

As I explained in that article, the bird is removed from its cage and control is taught in daily training sessions that take place on a neutral perch in a neutral territory -- a perch (i.e. the back of a kitchen chair) and room (i.e. a guest room or bath) that the bird does not consider to be its own turf. (Trying to establish controls over a headstrong parrot while it is in, on or even within sight of its cage is an exercise in futility and a great way to get bitten.)

Once the bird is responding to the human's order by stepping onto his/her hand every time the person says Up and off the hand onto the perch every time with a Down, then the human can start moving the training perch out of the neutral area and into the area of the bird's cage. He/she needs to move the perch slowly -- maybe only a few inches at a time -- and then work again on the commands, making sure the bird follows them to the letter. To maintain consistency from then on, the person will ALWAYS use these commands whenever and wherever he/she is handling the bird.

Back on the Bird's Turf.....

Once in sight of the bird's cage, the training sessions often become more difficult, but the person should not lose heart.

With patience and consistency (and a little time), the bird will again respond to the commands that it followed beautifully when out of sight of its territory. Under NO circumstance should the human lose his/her temper (tempting though it may be at times), since that usually provides the drama that parrots love -- few things tickle them more than making their pet person mad enough to yell. After all, what a wonderful game! (I discussed the Drama Reward in another article.)

When the teacher and the pupil have at last worked their way back to the cage, the human should put the bird onto his perch in the cage with the Down command, then immediately pick him up again with the Up command. Doing this several times in a row will teach the bird that these commands work just as well inside the cage as out. This process should also be repeated on the cage top, as well as on and around any other place where the parrot hangs out.


New Patterns For In and Out of the Cage

From that point on, whenever the bird wants to be let out of its cage, it must step onto the person's hand when the human says Up. If it refuses, then it is not allowed out of the cage until it changes its mind and follows the command. Under no circumstance should the person simply open the cage door and walk away -- this will convince the parrot it is again in control of its life and the humans in its flock.

Once the bird has come out of the cage with the proper commands, if the human wishes, the parrot can be placed on top with the Down so it can go in and out at will. At the end of the day, the bird should be returned to his cage with a Down.


Altitude vs. Attitude

Always keep in mind that height is correlated directly with dominance in the mind of the companion parrot -- so a bird above eye level generally considers itself higher on the pecking order. This height significance must be considered when choosing the training perch, as well as with perch placement in a parrot’s cage. Aggressive birds should not be allowed to perch higher than the person’s chest level. The top of the bird's cage may not be a good place for the parrot to play if it starts getting delusions of superiority. A separate play area set on a low table usually solves this problem.

Even after the parrot is behaving itself around the cage (and everywhere else), the human should keep up training sessions every week or so, just to remind the bird that the rules are still in force. It is also critical that any other humans handling the bird should use the same commands in exactly the same manner -- ALWAYS using the Up to get the bird on his/her hand, and off the hand with a Down. Otherwise, the bird will become confused -- just as a human child does when two parents enforce different rules.

Also keep in mind that nothing is permanent in the mind of a parrot -- in the wild, there appears to be a constant push-pull going on within the flock, with challenges happening constantly. So the human should not be surprised when a previously well behaved parrot suddenly refuses a command -- it is just checking to see if the human is really in control. By insisting the command be followed, the human simply reaffirms that.

So by following these easy training techniques and handling their parrot in a firm, loving and consistent manner, John and his wife can get control of their headstrong bundle of feathers -- therefore regaining the loving relationship they used to enjoy.

Bird Toy Safety

Is plastic a safe product for my bird? Are there any unnatural chemicals used? I have read about phthalates, is that still used in plastic? Will my bird swallow plastic? Will plastic pass safely through if accidentally swallowed? Will my bird like playing with plastic? Why use plastic toys for my bird? What are some advantages and disadvantages of plastic toys compared to wooden toys?

Powder coated paint is plastic. Bird cages that are powder coated are painted with plastic paint. Birds living in powder coated cages without the presence of metallic or other harmful additives are healthy and have no known adverse effects from the plastic paint.

If zinc or other metallic additives are added to the plastic paint to help it adhere to the metal better, the zinc can cause a health problem. But don't throw the baby out with the bath water, as most plastic does not have any metallic additives. The photo shows a powder coated cage with a playtop. My Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo is very secure, healthy and happy with her plastic painted surfaces and toys.

As a general rule, birds don't swallow non-food items like wood or plastic except by accident. Plastic requires 400 degrees of heat to break down. Due to this high-heat requirement, plastic will not melt or be compromised in your birds system. Anything small enough to swallow should pass right through their system and come out as "confetti bird poop."

Plastic was first widely used on toys in my area of Texas in the early 1990s. Alphabet letters, airplanes, dominoes, dice, animal figures, and boats were the first plastic items many of us used on bird toys. These plastic toys continue to be great favorites of many parrots.

In 1998, the plastics industry began changing its softener from phthalates to natural citrus softeners. Citrate Esters is the name usually associated with the softening of plastic this natural way. Today's plastic is a clean product that can be completely disinfected after purchase. I clean bought toys with 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% water, rinse well and dry outside in the sunlight to kill any germs the cleaner missed.

My observation is that birds who are afraid of toys are attracted to acrylic toys. Acrylic is a plastic. If the bird can see through a toy the timid bird feels better about the toy. Acrylics like pacifiers, see-through beads and buttons, and any sturdy acrylic part delight some birds that have never played with toys before. The Umbrella Cockatoo in the photo sleeps snuggled to her translucent toys. (See Picture of snuggled Cockatoo)

Many birds adore plastic based toys and attack them with enthusiasm. People often say that plastic toys are the only ones their birds will play with. Wooden toys are used for beak conditioning, and the plastic ones are courted, danced for, and completely enjoyed by parrots. (See Picture of my Umbrella dancing with her plastic toy.)

I am privileged to share my heart with a male Moluccan named Cowboy Dallas. His 2 wooden toys have been hanging in his cage since Christmas morning, over 6 months. He plays with plastic toys, using his wooden toys for leveling off his beak growth. He is a happy, strong, handsome boy and his plastic toys are a big part of his joyful and exuberant personality. (See picture of Dallas)

Plastic's affordability to manufacture, friendliness to the environment, and cost-effective shipping costs due to lighter-than-wood weight makes it a product our parrot's can enjoy for hours and hours when they can't be out of the cage playing. Wood can not be as completely disinfected as plastic due to its porous nature.

Some food dishes are plastic and no ill effects have been reported. To relieve cage boredom, provide more toys at affordable pricing, and just for the fun of it, see if your parrot would enjoy the plastic lid from a can or a soda straw or coffee stir. To see if your bird likes plastic toys, you can try toys with wood and plastic parts like the toy pictured with Skeeter the Eclectus. (See Picture of Skeeter)

Match the bird's size and strength to plastic toys. A powerful Moluccan can play safely with tough plastics and pliable plastics. A smaller parrot can play with a wider variety of plastics safely. Plastics have proven to be a safe part of today's avian products. For more than 10 years we have housed our parrots in plastic coated cages and offered them toys of plastic. Today's citrus-softened plastics have given parrot keepers new and exciting plastic products to enrich our parrots lives.

Home Tweet Home

Your bird's cage is his/her home and should bring your bird a feeling of comfort and security. It is also the largest expense, after the initial purchase of the bird, that you will need to make. Great care should be taken when selecting a cage, especially, when you consider the amount of time that a bird spends in it's cage.

Safety should be your first consideration when shopping for a cage. Many pet birds have become injured from the very thing that should make them feel safe....their cage. These injuries can range from minor toe abrasions to death from strangulation. Look at the overall cage construction and ask yourself the following list of questions.

* Is the cage knock down or welded?
* Are there screws, nuts, and bolts, used to hold the cage together?
* What type of material is used in the cage construction?
* What type of finish is used on the cage and how is it applied?

* Does the cage have any scroll work or other decorative features?
* What is the bar spacing?
* What is the diameter of the bars?
* How many crossbars are in the design?

* What shape is the cage?
* What are the dimensions of the cage?

* Are there swing out feeder doors?
* Is there a locking mechanism on all of the doors, including the feeder doors?
* Is there a litter tray?
* Is there a removable grid?
* Is there a seed guard?
* Is there a play top?


Safety- Consider the type of bird that will call the cage home. Knock down cages require assembly and may use hardware to hold the cage together. If so, find out what type of metal hardware is used in the cage construction. Also consider if your bird will have access to the hardware and whether he/she will be able to disassemble the hardware. Look for any pieces that could easily be removed. These pieces could accidently be swallowed by your pet bird. Solid welded cages are stronger, but it is possible that the welds can break over time.

The majority of cages are constructed from a variety of different metals that include: wire, stainless steel, zinc, brass, and chrome. Wire cages are the most economical and are often used as breeding cages and travel carriers. These cages are processed in two different ways. You have the choice of Galvanized after welded and Galvanized before welded. The cages are Galvanized to prevent the metal from rusting. Galvanized after welded is generally considered safer. The welds may expose hazardous metals that can cause metal poisoning. Most wire cage manufacturers recommend an initial cleaning using vinegar and a wire brush. Metal poisoning can occur if the metal or metal flakes are ingested. Clean and inspect wire cages regularly looking for broken welds, broken wires, and metal flakes.

Metal cages are in the medium price range. They are manufactured in a wide variety of metals, sizes, shapes, and colors. They are usually brass or chrome plated, or have a powdered coated paint finish. Powdered coated finishes are more resistant to chipping, rust, and are easier to clean than the plated cages The plating can wear off over time. Some of the cage manufacturers offer a textured finish which not only make chips and scratches less noticeable, but give a better footing for grasping and climbing.

Stainless steel is the most expensive cage on the market, but stainless steel is the safest material for cage construction. These cages will never rust, chip, or cause metal poisoning. They are easy to clean and they are strong enough for even the most powerful beaks. A stainless steel cage will last a lifetime and be the most economical when you consider that it will never need replacing.

Some decorative features enhance the appearance of the cage, but can pose a safety risk. Scroll work may trap beaks, heads or toes, resulting in minor injuries or death.

Bar spacing is equally important in preventing injuries and allowing for maximum climbing mobility. Make sure the bar spacing is smaller than your bird's head to prevent him/her from becoming trapped in the bars. Horizontal bars give greater climbing mobility for increased exercise and play. The diameters of the bars determine the strength of the bars. The bars should be stronger than your bird and they should be large enough to allow for easy gripping.

SIZE and shape is also an important factor when considering a cage. I generally recommend that you purchase the largest cage that your can afford and can accommodate space wise. At the very minimum, your bird should be able to comfortably extend both of his/her wings at the same time. Highly active birds such as: Lovebirds, Parrotlets, Caiques, etc., require a larger cage than their size would indicate. The cage should be large enough to hang a few toys and allow for active play such as climbing, swinging, hopping, jumping, etc.

The overall shape of the cage will determine how much actually usable space is available.With the exception of Macaws and other long tailed birds, the width of the cage is more important than the height. Use the inside width dimensions to determine the amount of usable space. Round or dome top cages can make placement of hanging toys more difficult.

COMPONENTS such as Swing out feeder doors offer a safe and convenient way to feed, especially for the aggressive bird and breeding pairs. Your bird sitter will also appreciate the added security. Most cages come with 2 feeding stations and two dishes. Several cages are manufactured with 3 to 4 feeding stations. Extra feeding stations will allow you to offer several different types of food at the same time. For added convenience, purchase an extra set of food dishes.

Food dishes come in a varity of styles, colors, shapes, and are made from plastic, ceramic, or stainless steel. Lock down feeder dishes will prevent your bird from dumping his/her dishes over. Some birds like to toss their seed out of their dish. Dish covers and hoods can help contain the mess and save on wasted seed.

The main entry door on your cage should be large enough to remove the bird with ease. Entry doors and feeder doors should have a locking mechanism that will prevent accidental escape. If your bird learns how to open the cage doors, then you will have to add some type of safety feature such as quick links or locks. Make sure the quick links and/or locks are inaccessible to your bird.

Removable grids and litter trays are other cage options. They are easier to clean than solid cage floors.They can also prevent your bird from getting to the old food on the bottom of the cage, provided the distance between the grid and the tray is greater than your bird can reach. It is amazing at how far they can stretch those legs.

Removable seed guards can also help contain the mess to the inside of the cage making clean up outside of the cage easier. Seed guards will also need to be cleaned regularly.

Play tops are a convenient way to give birds time out of the cage. They can save space and money by not having to purchase an additional playstand. Many of the play top cages have an extra litter tray for use on the play top to make clean up easier.

CLEANING the cage is an important aspect to maintaining the good health of your pet bird. Change the litter tray daily. Wash the entire cage and perches weekly (or more often if necessary) using a mild soap. Disinfect the cage monthly using a 10% bleach/water solution, or other commercial disinfectant, and rinse well.

Purchasing a new bird is an exciting time and shopping for all of the supplies can be fun. Consider all aspects of the cage construction and disign . Remember to consider safety first and your bird's cage will truly become his/her castle.

Cages, Cages, Cages

With so many cages available on the market today how do you choose the right one? That is the question I asked everyone from veterinarians to manufacturers, breeders, distributors, retailers, bird owners and anyone else who might have an educated opinion. I received many different opinions, all valuable, but the most important issue that all mentioned was safety. Some liked special features, colors, etc. However, the one item that was first and foremost in everyone's mind is safety.

Safety is not something that can be limited to one item on a cage, it involves the whole cage - the paint, casters, dishes, feeding areas, perches, grills, trays, bar spacing and the locking devices. I will attempt to cover some helpful hints to keep in mind while you are out shopping for a home for your special friend.

Hint #1 - GO TO THE SOURCE!!!!
Speak to the manufacturers about their cages versus other cages on the market. Keep in mind that they are trying to sell a cage and will emphasize their good points. However, I did find that most of them simply try to explain their features and why they are important to your bird. Make notes, and compare price versus quality. Use what you learn from one manufacturer to ask similar questions of another manufacturer. The manufacturers themselves can be your most reliable source for getting the correct information to us the consumers. Simply ask "Why should I buy your cage over your competitors?".

Be sure to ask the manufacturers about their paint or powdercoating. Ask if the cages are non-toxic. Lead and zinc have become a very widespread subject of concern. Birds do require some lead and zinc to be healthy, but above certain levels these elements are toxic. Ask the manufacturer to explain what tests he uses on his cages. Stainless steel cages don't need paint and last very well. However, they are also much more expensive.

Everyone from vets to breeders have different opinions about what causes heavy metal poisoning. One thing I did find out was that lead and zinc are found in many different sources. Pennies, water, wall paint, food, vitamins, treatments for carpets and furniture - just to name few - all contain these elements. One thing is for sure, we are surrounded by it everyday. In this confusion, it is necessary to ask about the materials used to manufacture the cages. However, simply stated, cages from responsible companies are rarely to blame for toxicity. When a bird becomes ill, a complete analysis is necessary (testing almost everything the bird has been in contact with) to determine the true cause. No one wants to lose an animal due to this. So again, ask the question to make an educated decision.

Hint #2 - CHECK OUT THE WELDS!!!!
Many companies' cages are constructed by placing the bars into holes drilled in the main frame. This is a less expensive and faster way to manufacture. The painting process fills the holes superficially with paint. When the cage is shipped from the plant to its final destination or if it receives stress, the paint can separate from the holes. Once the cage gets wet, the water sits inside the tubular steel and the cage can begin to rust. I've learned that welding the bars to the main frame is really the best way to go. The cage is stronger and rusting is not a concern because there is no place for water to sit and rust the cage from the inside out.

Hint #3 - UP ON WHEELS!!!!
The cage itself must be sturdy; this starts from the bottom up. The wheels (casters) are very important. Checks to see what type of casters are on your cage or cage stand. Plastic wheels seem to break a bit more easily than ball bearing casters. This of course depends on the size and weight of the cage itself. However, keep in mind you will be moving the cage for cleaning etc....

Hint #4 - FEED ME!!!!
The dishes used in cages are very important. Certain materials such as plastic and ceramic can absorb food product. These materials are very difficult to sanitize properly. In addition, birds can chew plastic and ceramic can break. Metal dishes are best. Also, make sure to use stainless steel dishes. Some are simply metal. This too can be a problem. They can rust very easily or the metal may contain zinc or lead. Stainless steel cups can be sanitized quickly and easily and unless run over or beaten with a blunt object they will not break. Sanitation is a very important part of the nutrition process for our feathered friends. Remember, veterinarians use stainless steel instruments.

Hint #5 - KEEP OUT!!!
Just like you and I, sometimes our beloved pet does not want to be bothered, even with something as important as feeding time. Maybe you have a breeding mom or you have gone out of town and someone else is caring for your bird or your bird is just not in a good mood or wants to sleep. At such times, if a hand goes into the cage, it might not come out without a good nip. I recommend cages with outside access to the cups. Be sure the accesses are easy to open and close, the cups are secure and not easy to dump, and that the doors are difficult for your bird to open or have a locking mechanism. This is very important with larger birds.

Hint #6 - SIT ON IT!!!!
Perches can come in many different sizes. In the wild, birds rest on tree branches of many different sizes and at many different angles. Let's try not to forget this. It is important to place different sized perches in the cage. Those with varying widths, bumps and angles like tree branches are best. It helps prevent the bird's feet from becoming arthritic. Birds pick different sizes to stand on just like we pick different shoes, so their feet and muscles do not become stiff. Most manufacturers have basic perches in the cages. It is really up to us to create a complete environment for them.

That however is not the only important part of the perches. Also make sure they are properly placed in the cage. Look at the placement inside the cage. Can the bird reach the feeding area from a perch? If not, the bird will sit on or in its dish to eat or drink. Don't place a perch where fecal droppings may fall on a perch below or into the feeding bowls which could contaminate the food. And place at least one perch high up in the cage.

Hint #7 - GRILLS AND TRAYS!!!!
Well this was a subject that got a bit touchy. Again, safety is the concern. Make sure the bars on the grill are close enough together for your bird to walk on, yet far enough apart for items such as food, droppings, etc. to fall through. It must fit around all four sides of the cage well. You also want to make sure that there is enough distance between the grill and the tray. The little pooper-scoopers may try to get at the bottom tray for decaying food product or the paper product that is protecting the tray. The tray itself is hard enough to get to for cleaning. Again, ask if they slide out. If so, the problem of cleaning the grill and tray are taken care of. Just slide them out and wash them down.

Hint #8 - LOCK ME UP!!!
In my cage search I found so many cages locks my head was spinning. They swing up, push in, pull down, use a key, pull up and out or swing out. Needless to say, I saw everything but one that sings and dances. Keep in mind the front door lock is very important not just for your safety but for your bird's safety as well. Ask the manufacturers about their locks. Ask how they work. Let them explain it. If the food doors have locks, ask about them as well. Make sure your little Houdini can't just watch you do it and bingo - your end table became lunch while you were away. Ask the question!!!

Hint #9 - BAR NONE???
Bar spacing is extremely important for your bird's safety as well. Again, people had different opinions on this subject. Birds come in all different sizes. If the bars are too close together your bird could get stuck. If they are too far apart your baby could escape or get his head or body stuck in the bars as well. Also, for our larger feathered friends, if the spacing is too close together, they could get their beaks wrapped around and snap the welds.

Ask a reliable source what bar spacing is recommended for your type of bird. Then ask the manufacturers if they measure the bar spacing from the middle of the bar to the middle of the bar. Do they measure the space between the bars only or do they measure from the beginning of the bar to the beginning of the next bar? This will help you figure out which cage size to buy from that manufacturer. Also, keep in mind that you do want to show your bird off, yet make sure that the cage is completely safe. Ask, Ask, Ask.

Hint #10 - SIZING IT UP!!!
Make sure your bird has plenty of room to move around and exercise while in its home. Check for proper wing span room as well as tail feather room. They should be able to easily open and flap their wings for exercise from a few places within the cage. They must have enough room to move around as freely as possible and get exercise. For birds with long tails, be sure that the tail will not constantly be extending outside of the cage. Also consider having at least two sides of the cage with vertical bars, so that the tail can easily ride up and down without destroying the tail feathers. Space is a concern in most homes; most of us would love to have a rainforest in our back yards. However, since this is a bit unrealistic, the more room the better.

Also consider your height when purchasing a cage. Can you easily reach the top to retrieve your bird from it? Is it so high that the bird can feel dominant over you?

Hint #11 - PLAYTIME
A bored bird can become very destructive. Birds chew a lot. It helps keep the beak in condition and is also a natural nesting instinct. Most birds will chew on anything - paint, walls, furniture, jewelry. You name it, they will chew it. Toys, and a lot of them, are great. Get inside your cage. Find out if toys can be easily hung. If there aren't any loops inside the cage for hanging toys, make sure the bars are strong enough to hold toys, swings, manzanita, etc.. Again, your end table could be lunch.

Hint #12 - DESIGN QUALITY!!!
Depending on your preferences many different cage designs are available - round, flat, pointy, perch tops, removable tops, tops that open, tops that fold out. Take your bird's personality into account when making your choice. Make sure that the quality of the cage extends from the bottom to the top of the cage. Quality is not only in the design of the exterior of the cage. A quality cage is one that meets or exceeds standards of excellence throughout the design and includes extra features that meet the special needs of our feathered friends.

Hint #13 - Ouch!!!
Watch for sharp edges on the cage. This usually happesn where metal meets metal. Look on the inside as well as the outside of the cage. Run your hands around any area that may be suspect.

Hint #14 - Who do you trust???
Many people offer advice, and they do mean well. However, with technology becoming more and more advanced, it is easy to fall prey to incorrect remarks about a brand of cages. Remember there are 2 sides to every story. Check out the reliability of the source. You don't want to lose out on a great cage because someone has ignorantly repeated an erroneous story. Check out the facts.

As consumers we tend to want to believe other consumers. We have been taught that word of mouth is the best way to find things out. Technology has given us the freedom to do this without using our mouths. With the touch of a button we can create a harmful slant , believing that we will not have any backlash. The scary part is that, true or untrue, we can affect many people with our stories and opinions.

The manufacturers that I spoke with were very helpful and also very informed. Remember the one simple question "Why should I buy your cage?". So please get the facts and make an educated decision. It really is as simple as a few phone calls.

Selecting the right bird for you

Now that you have found a breeder or pet store to purchase a bird from, your next decision is to find that special bird for you and your family.

There are many factors to consider that will help you determine which species of bird is right for you. Your level of experience, budget, time commitments, environment, and personality are all key elements in choosing the right bird.

Parrots have long life expectencies ranging from 15 years for a cockatiel, to 70 to 100 years for larger parrots. Parrots form strong bonds with their owners. It can be very traumatic and stressful for them to be sold to another family. Be sure you can make the commitment before you purchase a parrot.

Remember that each bird is an individual and has his/her own unique personality. General species characteristics may not apply to individual birds.

EXPERIENCE

Have you previously owned a parrot?
Do you have other birds?
Have you done a lot of research on birds?
Do you know how to take proper care of the species you are considering?
Do you have an Avian vet?
Do you have other resources available to you?

Before you purchase a bird read as much material as you can on various species of birds. Research as many different species as possible. Talk to several breeders, pet stores, and avian vets to find out as much as you can on particular species of birds.

Make sure the place of business you are purchasing your bird from will answer all of your questions and is willing to continue to answer your questions long after the sale is made.

First time bird owners may want to start out with a smaller bird, such as a Cockatiel, Lovebird, Finch, Parakeet, or a Canary. Smaller birds may be less intimidating and easier to handle than their larger cousins. First time bird owners should purchase a bird that was handfed and well socialized. Birds who were handfed and handled as babies are usually tamer and friendlier than parent raised babies.

Conures, Quakers, and smaller African birds are usually the next bird purchase for people who have owned smaller birds. These birds are a little larger but are still easy to handle.

Macaws, Cockatoos, Amazons, and Greys require owners with previous experience in owning parrots as pets. These birds need a firm hand and new owners may find them intimidating.

Birds who have been abused, neglected, or have behavioral problems should be purchased by people who have a great deal of experience working with birds. These birds may require special care, taming, training, diets, environments, and handling.

BUDGET

How much can you afford to spend to purchase the bird?
How much can you afford to spend on a cage, toys, food,and other accessories?
How much can you afford to spend for the initial vet check up?
How much can you afford to spend on the on-going costs for emergency and annual vet care, food, toys, etc.?

Your budget is an important factor when deciding which bird to purchase. If you are on a limited budget you should keep that in mind when deciding which species of bird to purchase. Larger birds require larger budgets. In general, the bigger the bird, the more it will cost to maintain the bird.

TIME COMMITMENTS

How much free time do you have?
Do you travel often?
What is your daily routine?

If your daily schedule is very demanding then you should consider purchasing birds that do not require a great deal of time to take care of and socialize, such as Finches and Canaries. Parrots need to have time out of the cage each day to interact with their family.

If your job requires out of town travel, than you need to consider whether you have someone who can expertly take care of your bird during your absence. Parrots can become stressed and lonely when their families are absent which may lead to behavioral problems. Frequent travelers who cannot take parrots with them should consider this before purchasing a parrot.

Make sure your routine will allow for daily food preparation, cage cleaning, and playtime. Parrots are intelligent social creatures who need daily interaction with their owners, fresh fruits & veggies, and a clean cage. Have plenty of toys available for independent playtime to keep those beaks busy and in good condition.

ENVIRONMENT

How much room do you have for a cage, playstand, and accessories?
Do you have other pets?
Do you have young children?
What type of building do you live in?
How much noise can you, and other family members, and neighbors become accustomed to?

I always suggest purchasing the largest cage that your budget and space will allow for. Make sure you can adequately house the species of bird that you are considering to purchase. Playstands and other accessories will also take up space. Cages should be placed in an area of the home where the bird can interact with the family. Artificial full spectrum lighting should be installed if natural light is not available.

There are many multiple pet households, but you have to consider whether existing pets and a new bird can co-exist safely and happily. Multiple pet households must be able to keep their pets separate and supervise their pets at all times.

Young children and parrots may not get along. Children can be loud and their quick movements can startle birds and make them nervous. Birds and children can also become jealous of each other. If you have young rambunctious children then you may want to consider waiting until the children are a little older before you purchase a parrot.

Your residence may determine which species of bird to purchase. Apartment and Condo dwellers may want to purchase birds who are known to be less noisy, such as Lovebirds, Cockatiels, Finches, Canaries, PYRRHURA Conures, and Lories. The purchase of a bird is a life long commitment and you will want to avoid any potential problems with your neighbors which could result in having to find a new home for your pet.

Aratinga Conures, Cockatoos, and Macaws can be quite loud with their daily chattering and screaming rituals. When you are visiting pet stores and breeders be sure to listen to the birds vocalizing. Are the sounds music to your ears or annoying interruptions? Birds vocalize to communicate and you should expect and be able to tolerate a fair amount of chattering and screaming from a pet bird.

Birds can be quite messy. If seed and droppings on the floor, and daily sweeping/vacuuming will be troublesome for you, then you should reconsider whether a bird is the right pet for your household.

Birds have delicate respiratory systems. They need to be housed in pollution free environments. Cigarette and cigar smoke can cause lung cancer in birds. Air fresheners, pesticides, non-stick coating pots and appliances, cleaning solutions, and other fumes can kill a bird instantly or from long term exposure. Hepa air filters will help your bird breath easier but you should not depend on them to remove all hazardous fumes. If you can't live without your air fresheners, cigarettes, and non-stick cookware then do NOT purchase a bird.

SPECIES PERSONALITY

What are your expectations?
Do you want an affectionate bird?
Do you want a more independent Bird?

Certain species of birds are generally known for certain personality traits. Please remember that there are always exceptions and birds are individuals. Early socialization, training, discipline, and whether the bird was handfed (and the method of handfeeding) also contribute to the birds personality.

Finches and Canaries are relatively small so they don't require as much space as larger birds. They are also quieter than larger parrots. The song of a male Canary is quite delightful. These birds generally do not require much handling.

Parakeets are a popular first time bird. Their small size, gentleness, price, and talking ability make them desirable for beginners.

Lovebirds and Parrotlets are the smallest two species of parrots. They have big bird personality in a diminutive size. They require a larger size cage than you would expect. They are quite playful and enjoy daily interaction and handling. They may also learn to speak a few words. Lovebirds are full of energy and can become a bit nippy. .

Cockatiels make wonderful first time pets. They are gentle, affectionate, and playful. They are a little larger than Lovebirds and Parakeets. They enjoy whistling and males can learn to speak. Handfed babies are readily available. These birds are hardy and breed quite well which make them ideal pets for the beginner.

Conures are usually the next step up from a small bird. Aratinga conures can be quite noisy and some people may find the pitch of their screams annoying. The Pyrrhura family are notably quieter. Conures are quite playful and many Conure owners have been startled by their birds laying on their backs on the bottom of the cage. They enjoy being handled by their owners and head scratches are greatly appreciated. Most can learn to speak a few words in a gravely type of voice. Blue Crowns have the best potential for speech.

African Greys are highly intelligent birds who are very sensitive to their environment. They are not for people with little or no experience in bird keeping. They are very desirable as pets due to their uncanny speaking ability. They can mimic household sounds so well that they fool their owners regularly. Greys like routine and sudden changes can cause them to become stressed. They need to have time out of the cage each day and interaction with the family on a daily basis. Greys have the tendency to bond with only one family member unless they are handled frequently by all of the members of the family.

Amazons are another species of bird noted for their ability to talk, sing, whistle, and mimic household sounds. They are basically green in color which makes identification difficult for the novice. They make excellent pets for the experienced bird owner, but they tend to bond with one family member. They are playful and they enjoy interacting with their owners, but they can be quite noisy with their ear shattering screams, which may irritate other family members and neighbors.

Cockatoos are very affectionate and can be very demanding of their owners time. Cockatoos need experienced owners that can deliver a firm hand. They can be quite loud with ear shattering screams. They are strong chewers and require a constant supply of objects to chew otherwise your furniture is fair game. They require a large, strong, escape proof cage. Most Cockatoo owners find they have to purchase locks for their bird's cage to keep them from escaping. Cockatoos really enjoy daily showers and grooming. The hardest part of owning a Cockatoo is trying not to spoil them. They prefer to be with their owners 24 hours a day.

Macaws are one of the most colorful species of parrots. The mini Macaws are very playful, smart, and do enjoy spending time in the lap of their owners. The larger Macaws are definitely for the most experienced bird owner. Their massive beaks and large size can be quite intimidating for the beginner. They need to be handled with gentle guidance and a firm hand. They need an extra large cage with plenty of perches and toys to chew. Their screams will be heard throughout your entire neighborhood.

Before you decide on which species of bird to purchase you need to consider all aspects of bird ownership. Owning a pet parrot can be fun and rewarding but the bird's welfare has to be taken into consideration. Choose your bird carefully and do not make an emotional decision.

Adopting an older parrot

Statics show that the average parrot may have up to 7 owners in his/her lifetime. Due to changing circumstances in their lives, some parrot owners may need to look for new homes for their pet birds. Some of the more common reasons pet birds are offered for sale are: a change in the family such as divorce or the addition of a new human baby, or the bird has not lived up to the owner expectations and they find the noise, the mess, and time commitment overwhelming. Also parrots may live between 70 to 100 years and thus outlive their owners.

Adopting an older bird can be both challenging and rewarding. So, is adopting a previously owned bird the right choice for you? There are many different aspects that you need to consider before you make the decision to purchase someone else's pet bird.

Your first consideration is to determine whether you can make the commitment to give the bird a permanent home and that you have the time to socialize and care for the bird . Many of these birds may have had more than one previous owner, some may not have been tamed and/or trained, and some have even been neglected or abused or have developed behavioral problems such as screaming, biting, or feather picking. Then, you have to determine whether you have the knowledge, experience, and/or have the resources to take care of the bird and give him/her a safe and healthy environment to live it.

Purchasing an older bird may have a few advantages. Some of these birds may already be trained and very friendly. Usually pet birds are offered for sale at prices less than the cost of a handfed baby. Investigate the background of the bird that you are considering to purchase. Gather as much information as you can on the previous owners, the birds diet, medical history, age, whether it was handfeed or imported, the breeding history if applicable, and personality traits. It may be difficult to trace the previous owners if there are more than a few. If the bird is banded or microchipped you may be able to find the original owner or breeder. Use all of the information that you have gathered to determine whether it is the right bird for you.

Your expectations should be realistic. Some older birds may have behavioral problems such as biting, screaming, or feather picking, and these problems may be the reason that the bird is up for sale. Sometimes these problems diminish or disappear with a change in environment but often they stay the same or the behavioral problems could even get worse. Make sure you have the available resources to handle any behavioral problems that may arise.

Patience is a standard requirement for anyone considering the purchase of an older bird. Some previously owned birds may bond instantly while others may take months. Each bird has his/her own individual personality and should be treated accordingly. Some of these birds may have been neglected by uncaring owners because of ignorance and even worse....ABUSE. Birds raised under these conditions may require more even care and time to adjust.

When you bring your new bird home be sure to place the cage in a quiet area of the house for a minimum quarantine period of 90 days. Be sure to follow strict quarantine procedures if you already have the other birds. Have a complete medical check-up performed on the new bird as soon as possible by an Avian Certified Veterinarian. During the initial medical exam, give the vet all of the background information that you have on the bird. Throughout the entire quarantine period you need to monitor your birds weight daily, and observe him/her closely looking for signs or illness and stress. Moving to a new home can be more stressful for an older bird, so try and duplicate his/her old diet and routine if possible. Having some familiar belongings such as his old cage, favorite treats, and toys may help comfort him/her during the transition period. Some signs of stress are loose watery droppings, shivering, heavy breathing, fluffed feathers, lack of vocalizations, poor appetite, and lethargy. These symptoms should disappear in a few days. Many of these symptoms can be signs of more serious medical conditions so close observation is imperative.

Building a trusting relationship may take longer with an older bird. Some birds will adapt rather quickly to their new environment while other birds may take a few months to adjust.. Older birds can form strong bonds with their owners if given the time to trust their new owners. Proceed slowly, while always keeping the bird's comfort level in mind. Approach the cage slowly, hand at your side or behind your back, and speak softly. Sitting on the floor will help the bird to feel less threatened. Allow the bird to determine how fast the relationship will develop. Don't force your bird into interacting with you. It will only delay the bonding process because he may fear you and not trust you.

Taming, training, or behavior modification may be necessary for certain birds. Begin training after your bird has become comfortable with you and his/her new home. Before you begin training or taming, be sure to keep your new bird's wings clipped. In addition to the safety aspect, birds with unclipped wings can have an attitude of superiority to their human companions which can make taming and training more difficult. Teaching the "step up" and "down commands" are a must for all untrained birds Be consistent in setting limits of acceptable behaviors, and use positive reinforcement to encourage desirable behaviors. Reward good behavior with head scratches, favorite treats, and praise. Ignore unwanted behaviors and don't reinforce negative behaviors.

Some older birds may require changes in their diet. Dietary changes should be made gradually, to ensure that your bird is eating enough to maintain weight. New foods may not be readily accepted so continue to offer them even if your bird refuses to eat them. Eventually, your bird will begin to eat more nutritious foods so don't give up.

Birds with physical handicaps can make wonderful pets. These birds deserve loving caring homes too. Most physical handicaps can be accommodate with custom designed cages, toys, and/or special diets.

Adopting an older bird may initially require more time, work, and patience but it is well worth the work. You can form a lasting bond as strong as you would with a handfed baby. So don't overlook the purchase of an adult bird.